700HP-GTR33

One word....Jim Berry...but not for a 32..only for the 33 and 34...32 is in a much smaller housing. The others are to heavy..this is a rebuild of the stock clutch...do not sell your old one. The pressure is increased with less tolerances and better materials.... this allows for a higher clamp force. There is a sticky here somewhere...could be in the drivetrain section on clutches

Carefull discuss new things in this topic..... Nismoid is out tonight closing the doors for many..... We may end up with no more topics to discuss if he has his way.

OMG.. ..Tuners will become extinct The car will run itself to work and back. make me a cup of coffee and do my work for me.... Ok on a serious note...self tuning cars in theory sounds good. It gets its own tune by the conditions you and your engine are in at any one time. Sounds good. But how is something like this going to be able to tune correctly.....not all tuners use a knock as part of their tuning requirements. Handing over complete control to a computer may just be the fatal flaw as said. It cannot smell, hear or see if there is a major problem about to happen. The thing may just cut off some things and starve the motor of fuel or timing....both of which can be real bad. Has every one forgotten already the Qantas flight last week

reliability? 1 Its an RB26 ...start from the crank...many drag cars use billet counter-balanced cranks.Don't bother with a R33 GTR stock crank...their normally cracked and partly bent from the factory. Balance is the key to creating a reliable engine.ie..have your rods balanced and your pistons weighed etc etc etc.. 2 Get a better than average tune....don't be scared to spend money here...ask him or her what they prefer DJETRO of Standard PFC.You though have not mentioned a good boost controller. All the rest of your mods are great..they seem to be supporting mods..I guess you will be using stock pistons, rods, cams valve springs etc etc etc. I suspect your head gasket may need to be metal and u may continplate using a set of new head bolts. All of a sudden it sounds like your going to spend well over $25K. Reliability is also never certain. Your gearbox will need a little attention too....syncros fail here and I still need to discuss with my Guru if there are any titanium or alternative ones on the market I can use on my gear-box build. Os Giken and others though have some after market options for this...but very expensive, Your clutch being a GTR32 type is a lot smaller than the GTR33/34 type. Giving it many hard launches will give you heart ache after heart ache.Triple plate anyone?....not sure how to address this...you may need to speak to some one who has used a gtr32 as a drag car to see what he/she suggests can work on the street as well. You did not say if this car was going to be used on the street as well. There is also no mention on how many times you intend to go to the drags and achieve these constant 11or 10 second runs. Hope I have been of some help.

+1... Don't know how I missed this one............. Oh you did forget to mention...if you admit you had leaky injectors and drove the car...insurance won't pay.

Judging buy the length and width of the spring as well as distance from each coil I would say it would be street. My Ohlin Springs make those springs look tiny.

Great graph...would have loved to see -7's and -9's plotted as well. 2530's and -5's improve response with a good set of Cams. GT-RS can only improve with a larger displacement.

SOLD

Milking usable power and milking 10000RPM Power are two things. Turn boost up to 2.5 Bar...get it on a dyno...add racing fuel and presto, you either have a blown engine.....or you get a 1000+horse power figure. Most of the vehicles you are talking about get a re-build straight after their run. Not many here want to see if there motor will handle that sort of punishment

OK...let me explain it again. There were 4 different Turbo combinations that Garrett made. The -7(N1),-9(SS) were close as far as Performance.these were the N1 and SS equivalents. Both these Turbo's have a very similar housing size as Stock and are rated to be able to support 300 and 320hp respectively. The factory stock turbo's I recall were rated either to 260 or 280 each.But don't quote me on this. Now the -5(GT2530) and -10(GT-RS) have bigger housing and are able to support 350 and 400hp respectively each. In no way unless you want giant lag should you use -10.(GT-RS).......unless you have a built motor with high lift cams dialed in buy a good tuner. Even then you will see power higher in to the rev range that makes driving around town stupid. These are only good for drag and whiplash when they start to spool at 5000RPM. Now most people here swear by the SS or N1...both of which are great for low power delivery and great therefore for street. Responsive and a good package.......no mods needed slap them in and presto..... OK......If you want some serious usable power mid to high range the -5's are good. But I only suggest -5's if you continplate upgrading Computer,Cams,Dumps,Injectors at a latter stage or if you are thinking it will be a work in progress. The other option is to go 1 Single and be done with it...although this can be a lot more costly.

Hello Geoff, Could I get a cost of a Bar for a GTR33...thanks. I will attempt to install it.... Thanks

4 more days....Hurry up...Hurry up....Hurry up......

Hello, These are recommended to do for drag/circuit or drift cars with after market oil pumps QOUTE 1.Block off one oil feed in the block (RB26’s have this standard) 2.Fit an appropriately sized restrictor to the other feed. The size of the oil pump is one of the determinates for the size of the restrictor, ie; a high flow, high pressure pump needs a smaller restrictor. Constant higher RPM needs a smaller restrictor etc. 3. Fit an external oil return from the rear of the cylinder head to the sump 4. Drill out the oil return galleries in the head and block 5. Machine around the oil return galleries to facilitate access for the oil QUOTE I am running a N1 pump. Can anyone give me the right sizes I will need to drill out. 1-the sump(5) 2mm holes to? 2-the return oil supply to the sump(Block and Head) to? A 1.5mm Tomie restrictor and Sump baffle will be used and No external oil return. The car will mostly be run on the street with little or no drag/circuit use. Thanks in advance?

Paul has dedicated his life on this matter........

PAID

.... When I go around a corner and hit a bump the car nearly lifts off the ground.... Your spring rates must be lower.

Hello all, I have had my car for many years...cursing the ride it gave me. It is in for major works, so I have decided to change my springs. The car is set up with ohlins(Coil-over) suspension and after having the springs tested I have had 640 pounds at the front and 540 pounds in the rear. Was told this is good for track and drift only......if used on the street great for a back reco. What spring rates should I be running. I am not interested in lowering due to front lip problems going up my driveway. Car will have 350AWKW's after the build. I am in Melbourne and looking to get them locally. Who can supply these at mates rates? Or even at good rates What do springs cost?..Was told I should be looking at 400 Pound odd at the frot and 330 Pound at rear. Cheers. Oh...look at the FS area in the next few weeks...I will have the ohlin springs for sale. Anyone want a back reco.

Underway as we speak. But am going 86.5mm Pistons so bore and hone. Thanks all for your input.

Engine/Car/Year/K's: RB26 GTR33 96 140K Type of failure: Bent crank Factors influencing the failure: Age and pushing stock bottom end.May have been unbalanced for a long time. State of tune of the engine: 290AWKW,s,-5 Turbo's,Poncams,700cc injectors,PFC,AVCR always set at 1.1Bar. Bottom end: Stock Suspension and tyres: Ohlins ,K104 Ventus Service intervals: 5k to 7K Always was worried about the bottom end when pushing higher numbers.

In my application I have decided to keep my N1 oil pump. Fit a Tomei restrictor,1.5mm. Drill out the sump holes(5) from 1 to 6mm and increase the oil line return size to 10mm. No sump extension..not needed..add 1 litre more oil if going on track/drag. I will not be hitting the rev. limiter much (Set it to around 8K using all forged bottom end)as it is a road car which hardly gets track or drag use.

Yes my engine builder has built many RB26 motors. This thread is to help myself and others make decisions on approaching RB Oil control issues. I now have a better understanding and knowledge after posting this thread. It will add to the great data base on here.

Manifolds The covers will only fit the Tomei Stainless steel manifold for this locates the holes if you have a tune-agent etc there are no holes...look at your manifold see if they have provision. Also not sure how chrome reacts to high levels of heat. I might get mine dipped...... Free bump. Oh yes nice exhaust..looks quite.

Drilling the stock oil return makes a lot of sense, 9.5mm would be an added improvement but what is the most they can be drilled out. Dave though has suggested these can be drilled out to 12mm. How far can you go? The drilling out the 1mm holes is suggested by Tomei when fitting their oil baffle plate they though suggest 6mm. Dave has gone one better and has suggested 8mm. How far can you go? I believe maybe with the stock returns drilled out to 12mm, Sump return oil gallery 1mm drilled out to 8mm combined with a Tomei 1.5mm oil restrictor may just work when the engine is out. It would be great to have though a quick fix solution to this problem with an extra return line, maybe picking up oil 3/4 of the way up the head 10 to 12mm line returning back into maybe 1/2 way up the sump. Experimenting with the idea that we could vent this also to our existing catch can may lower bottom end pressure which always ends up blowing your dip stick out on a dyno run.... .That is if you haven't tide it up. Anyway, I hope this helps others

+1 Mine is ripped, It is funny though, the parts are not equal to the sum.

Ok, So if you have a Jun,Tomei high flow oil pump fitted then this is a must. You would then consider an extended sump. I would think though this would be an great alternative for cars with a lot of blow-by and hitting the rev limiter often with out the restrictor in place or extended sump. Especially if they don't want to remove the head to fit a restrictor. Tapping a 10mm hole into the sump and threading it would be an easy job to do.Or am I mistaken? It may not even need to be 10mm...this is why I ask...it could be 5mm....or even 4,3.