700HP-GTR33

My warning was because of what was on a web site. Don't listen to what they go on about in the turbo info section.... Look at the results and the mods. done in the performance threads...RB20,RB25,RB26.Upgrades I have not seen may of these guys use this system HKS and Garrett seem to be the best choice.(both being the same turbo anyway) Take care The graph that is posted at the start of this topic by writeoff might be abit ancient too. So looking at this would be incorrect to compare PSI of Turbo's. IE. The old N1 turbo's are different from the new one's.

AFM......When you start the thing again(cold) tap the AFM a few times. This will give you the answer straight away...you migh need new ones or fix the old ones. Cheers

Coil pack normally has troubles at high revs.Put injector cleaner into the fuel tank, see if that might fix it.Changing the afm to find out it did not fix the problem would hurt your pocket. Any one got a working AFM to lend to see if thats the problem? Where abouts are you?

NEW...ALL THE WAY. If you were just looking to fix your motor, then you would buy second hand I would hate to do a re-build to find out there is something wrong . All that time and effort to put it together,tune and see a problem with maybe one of the pistons or rods would kill me.You also would get a waranty when you buy new, so if there is something wrong the supplier would be able to help with the costs. Good luck with the choice.....saving money is not something you should think of with a RB26 Motor.

You need to work out what size first....some tyre sellers have specials on some sizes and makes. Do some ringing around, you'll get the feel of things after the second call. Cheers.

Last I looked the GT2530's or Garrett GT2860R-5 Turbo's are rated at 700HP so how are you stating that. So waiting for a reply on why the AFM's with the d-getro unit?

Have we tried checking the brains we have? ....Always wanting more power and how to get it. After you set this up and launch at about 6000RPM you will almost do damage somewhere. The next weak link i suppose... gear box, clutch,flywheel,diff.. Who knows what Aarons next problem will be? There has to be some supporting mods other than what you have to be able to put this much power on the road. Please post up the dyno results on the RB26 Dyno results listing all your mods.(once you have sorted yourself out) Good luck

Are you running an apexi boost control set up or....are the actuators set at a particullar boost?

So says the O mighty son of rajab.......make sure you leave enough stopping distance...don't tail gate. I have seen many cars go into the grass divide on western -ring road ...stupid tail-gaters. At least you could stop.......and you are telling the story. .In this case....I would suggest a transplant . Get a Laser and bolt up your motor into it...does it fit?What cars can you bolt that motor into anyway? Nahhhh...buy it back offf the insurance company , then get it fixed.Looks too goodto through out.

Ask a tuner if the d-jetro power fc will give you responce quicker....I am sure this is what the ecu is designed for.You will have responce alot earlier.

He had the old N1 turbo's these spool up at 5000RPM Plus. Yes the new N1 Turbo's spool alot earlier as you have stated.

You have been warned.No hi-jacking of threads that are serious.

Call the panel beater, Tell him the situation. Ask him if he is going to fix the problem. If he does not want to. Then get a mechanic out to fix your problem. Then pay for it . Take the bill to the panel beater and get him to re-inburse your money. Give him the bill to use on his tax return. If he does not want to gie you the money then tell him you are going to small claims. Why are you taking the responsibility on your shoulders bro.? Oh just let him know when you call him what you are intending to do. If he does nothing about it. Get a small claim tribunals report and state what had happend . Then call him again to say you are lodging the thing. He will see your way by then. Just letting you know how to go about it. CALL HIM. TALK TO HIM ABOUT IT. IF HE IS GOOD HE WILL FIX IT. IF HE IS BAD HE WILL STILL HAVE TO FIX IT(Unless he changes his name) I hope you get my drift. Cheers Tekin

Are you running coils or leads? What car we talking about here?

There must be a pressure build up ,changing the gears has nothing to do with it. Taking your foot off the pedal quickly at high boost levels has. Do you both run front pipes and pods? I believe they are to small for the turbo's and the boost levels you are running. The air is sucked in at maximum boost and then shut out, If your pipes are not large enough a vacuum can form which tries to spin the turbo's the other way,once they try to spool again. This would happen if you are using standard air boxes and larger turbo's with higher boost. The other problem can be in your blow off valve and how effective it is. If you have one that is? These help the turbo's release unwanted air through a wastegate at gear changes or really between gas pedal intervals.How well have you installed these? If you have none then pressure builds up and a vacuum once again might form especially at high boost levels. Last but not least you have timing problems,answer is easy to that one, get a tune. I hope i have helped in some way. Cheers Tekin

Have you driven it yet? It sure looks suspicious all to be that spot on. I was wondering if work load such as pulling or carting things around could have a greater even load on the way the cylinders wear, lots of high constant speed could do this aswell i would think. This may explain the results if they are correct. If a car has been thrashed , usually there are particular stress caused on some cylinders and wear and compression are uneven. Check out to see if those km's are genuine. then look for wear on the boots etc. Offer them $2000 less and have the thing rebuilt if you are concerned. If the car is clean and looks like it has been taken care of ,test drive it ,get it checked once over and if you are happy , buy it.

There is a Turbo set up with a wa fella on here, I forget the name...oh Chad Fletcher.(footballer) If it is really him He has a N1GTR Motor in a 34gtt , he has boost coming in at around 5500RPM.Nismoid said it was because the old N1 Turbo's are designed to spool up around there. The interesting thing is he hates this aswell. The recommendations where to change the turbo's or get some dumps if i recall right. I suspect the units you might have bought are simmiler to these.

Stagea 260RS 500HP, race or cruise in luxury. 4 door plus room for family and dog . Leaving your mummas behind....vess..or...baxr6 A gtr in a conservative package

Sold for $550 ....picked up aswell. This was a good buy... Thanks for the responces

No problems.....let me know then. Cheers Tekin

Sold ...awaiting payment

If you only had a dollar for everytime someone wished you a happy birthday, you would be able to afford those rims you were drooling over. Please donate some $$$ to HABTRF ( Help Al Buy Those Rims Fund)

Is it a manual or auto. If its an auto. then you transmission is stuffed. I though the plugs etc would make the think kick like a mule when your taking off.Is this happening? If its revving to 4000 and not moving your transmission is stuffed. Hope i have been of some help.

I think these measurements are actual sizes and not the increase in size(Bad Sentence Construction) Also very rude to get a comeback of that nature to a response that was confused about the sentence. You have been unlucky. I believe you could have the gt-rs turbos or -10 Garrett Turbos making it a really laggy turbo set up. Now you need to get some dumps, and computer to get them to spool earlier. I may be wrong though. I hope though you are gratefull and not come back like that at me.

Manifolds come with gasket sets too. Need to sell by Friday next week...or taking them off the market.