GTS 33

Yeah thought it might be the sensor. Will have to get it looked at. Ive been told that the pfc is more accurate than the speedo. Due to different size tyres.

Was wondering if anyone has run into the same problem with the speedo on the Power FC. Noticed a couple of days ago that after about 1/2 hour of driving the speed starts jumping all over the place. I was doing about 105 then all of a sudden it jumped up to 140. Sometimes it stops working all together, just reads 0. The speedo in the dash cluster is fine, even though its wrong by about 4k's. Could there be something wrong with my PFC or is there a sensor that could be rooted? Thanks for any info on this problem

Just wondering if anyone knows of any good Panel shops in perth that do a really good job, that doesn't cost the earth? My bonnet is pretty rooted. And have been told by a panel beater that they can try and fix it, but might not come up brand new as the size of the bonnet is so big and there isn't much stength in it. Also I was told of a place in perth that sell carbon fibre bonnets and other replacement panels. Does anyone know of this place. As I want to get it fixed. Thanks Chris

Hey SydneyKid Thanks for that info. Not really clued up on the pfc as yet, still gotta have a play. Do you have any advice of what the air/fuel ratios, ignition timing and boost should be set at for best results without damaging anything? Pretty sure my boost is set at 13.1, spoke to 25GTT he says that might be a little hi. Thanks for your help

From memory think it's 13.1 will have to check when at home. The tuner I used has pretty good rep. 25GTT uses same tuner has similar gear and is producing 275+rwhp. Chris

Hey People Just after some help. I receantly got my power fc with h/c, boost control and exhaust cam gear installed on my 1993 GtsT. It already had 3" exhaust with dual dump pipes, Apex GT intercooler and pod air filter. Since the new gear has been installed I have only recieved about an extra 22rwhp. Does this sound right? I ran a thread before I bought the PFC, boost cont and cam and was told I should have been able to get close to 200rwkw. I'm only at about 187rwkw. Any advice would be great. Thanks Chris

Hey just thought I'd add a bit to this post I ordered my PowerFC, Hand controller and Boost controller (also bought exhaust cam gear) from nengun got it bout a week ago. Got all the above for 155000 yen which worked out to be roughly 2114.69 Tried greenline aswel but Nengun were cheaper in the end and they have better insurance for the postage. Gonna go see my mechanic today to sort out installation and tuning prices. Good luck with yours Chris

Yeah no worries Grim glad to be able to help Take it easy

Thanks to all you guys for the info.

Hey Benm Fuel regulator Any particular type? Do I need to get it from Nengun aswell? Or can I purchase one here in aus? Thanks Chris

Hey Jay Got a quote from Greenline today (Above Quote). But Nengun has told me they will beat any price I get. www.greenline.jp http://www.nengun.siteblast.com Still gotta get back to Nengun see what they will do it for. Chris

Yeah thanks for the advice Jay. If eventually I do fork out for a bigger turbo is the Apexi PFC gonna beable to manage it OK? Thanks Chris

Probably want to spend about $2500. Haven't read that much about wolf. Thought Apexi was one of the better ones. Got quote back today; APEXi Power FC - 80,850 APEXi Power FC Hand controller - 28,875 APEXi Boost controller - 30,723 Exhaust cam pulley - 12,123 Shipping - 3,300 TOTAL 155,871 yen or AUD$2059.76 Seems pretty good value but not sure if its gonna give me much more KW? Thanks Chris

Would like some advice from anyone, regarding the best way to get some good results from my R33. It currently is 228rwhp. The engine is pretty standard at the moment. I have an Apex GT intercooler Cold air intake Pod air filter 3" exhaust with Dual dump pipe I am considering getting a Apexi PFC with H/C, an HKS exhaust cam pulley and probably a Apexi boost controller. Got pretty reasonable prices so far roughly $2100 for the lot. But after speaking to few people not sure if the Apexi is worth it. Been told the Autronic SM2 is much better but its alot more expensive. Also been told to upgrade my turbo. This option seems like the expensive option but probably get best results. Any advice would be greatly appreciated. Thanks

Hey Zahos check out this site they got pretty good deals even sell second hand gear. http://www.nengun.siteblast.com/ Good luck Chris

Hey G0DF4Th3R just wondering if you have had any experience with setting these up? Just a bit unsure about the wheel size configuration. Not sure what the standard size wheel is? The wheels I have are 245 40 R17. Any help would be great. Thanks

Thanks for that G0DF4Th3R. Hopefully be able to set it up properly. Cheers

Just wondering if anyone can help me I recently bought my R33 and there is an Apexi Rev/Speed meter in the car. I am trying to locate some instructions for it. I have been to the web site and can't find any info there. The meter is probabley a few years old. Attached is a picture of the meter, so if anyone can help it would be greatley appreciated. Picture is a bit dark.

this is a picture of the fuse box. sorry the pics so small.

here is the diagram hope it helps.

Sorry Dude. I did attach the file, but musn't have worked for some reason. I will re-post it tommorrow when at home.

If anyone is still interested in wiring there head lights so when the high beam is on, low beam comes on aswell here is a simple way to do it. Also See the attached file for wiring diagram and finished product. I had a mess around with this and found this the easiest way to do this. You only need to run one extra multi-core cable if you do it right. What I used: *5meters of 7x1.5 multi-core cable purchased from marlows (As long as the multi-core has at least 4 wires it should be ok. All the cores will be of different colours) *2 x 5A fuses and fuse holders *2 x 4or5 pin 12v 30A relays and relay holders if you can get them *8 x Insulated female blade crimps *4 x Insulated lugs with 6mm hole *4 x Inline cable joiners (ask an auto Sparkie, tell them what you exactly want to do) *Black cable ties 1. Firstly disconnect the plug from the back of the left hand side headlamp. You need to join one of the cores to the high beam wire and one to the low beam wire. You'll find there are 3 wires, one being the high beam, one being the low beam and the other the ground or negative. 2. Join the wires in a way so as there is a good connection and are as neat as possible. I ran the multi-core along in front of the radiator where some of the original cables run, have a look to see and you should be able to hide it quite well. Then cable tie the cable in place. 3. The cable should then run past the right hand side head light where I put a hole in the outer sheath of the multi-core and managed to pull two cores out (this was a little bit tricky, see below for tip) so as I could join to the right hand side head light in the same way. Run the end of the cable around to the fuse box or wear ever your going to mount the relays and fuses. 4. Firstly connect the two wires from the left hand side headlight to the first relay. Connect the High beam wire to terminal 86 on the relay and connect the low beam wire to terminal 87. 5. Then do exactly the same on the second relay. 6. Run two separate wires from a good ground or negative to terminal 85 on each relay. 7. Then run a hard active straight to the fuse (fuse holders), do this on both relays. 8. Then from the fuse run a wire to terminal 30 on the relay, do this on both relays. This probably could be done using only one relay, but I thought it would be better to use separate relays and fuse them individually. Attached is a basic wiring diagram, This is just for one side so just duplicate on the other side. Tip: Gently make a hole in the outer sheath on the multi-core cable. Try pulling two wires through the hole. Just don’t pull the two wires used on the left hand side headlamp. When pulling them through you’ll need to wiggle the cable quite a bit. I ended up pulling them through a bit from the end that goes towards the fuse box then cutting them. You only need about 50mm.