GunMetalR33

^^^^^Nice Sig

A bit off topic but: Can anyone post a .jpg of the name "Vee" translated in either katakana or kanji?

Sorry mate, never had to do it before... It should become clear once you attempt to get the burned motor out. It might be the case that your motor actually burned out due to the window pane ceasing in the runners. Which would explain why you cant manually move it

Can you hear a clicking noise when you push the window button? The clicking noise is the sound of the relay closing, if you can hear that then the relay should be OK. The way the you described the window motion as being sluggish leads me to believe that the motor has burned out. If it was the relay I think it would have simply stopped and not slowed first.

The relay should work regardless of the dodgy soldering in the black box. I can hear my relay tick over and the window does not work due to those bad soldering points. As for it getting slow and stuck, your motor is either on its way out, OR you need to apply some dry lube to the runners to stop the friction. Otherwise if you keep it the way it is the motor will eventually burn out anyway.

search for "Hicas Lock bar". That sould give you some pics. Ps, why do you want Hicas. Most people here get rid of it for good reasons...

pics?

Just got my rotors then. They are nice a chunky! Thanks again for setting this up mate!

Dont forget about those Vice Grips

^^ Do you have a pic of this pipe spanner??? I am helping cash0 with this... Another thing to think about cash0 is: Will any of this water piping be needed with your replacment turbos. Ie, are you going to have to run braded oil and water lines anyway, like if you went for a big single. If thats the case we dont have to worrie about damaging them too much... SK suggested having a sticky beak inside the zaust mainfold as thats the path that the ceramic would go towards your values and through to your cylinders. I think this is the safest thing to do before we turn it over again. Ps, just spoke to will. He saw you on the side of mugga when it happened

I though rb26's have a exhaust manifold for each turbo. Ie, they are independant.

^^^lol I dont think he tried to boost it after he saw the smoke, Ie no throttle or very little just to get it off the road.

its not an air leak or blown hose in this case. If it was there would be a sh*t load of black smoke due to richness...

Second Question: What do GTRS turbs cost What do GCG hi-Flows cost N1's???

Cash0: When I talked to you yesterday I figured the tick tick tick might have been a big end but I agree with others, If its white smoke its either the head gasket or the turbos. My money is on the turbos. The Tick Tick Tick might be the exhaust wheel banging around infront of your cat. On sunday we should drop the cat and have a look see... Question: If we do a compression test is their any chance of the ceramic fragments of the exhaust wheel heading back through the values and into the bored thus scoring it while turning the engine over. Also where is the fuse for the fuel pump on a R32 GTR??

thanks for the update.

PFC Pro uses an ignition cut...

rs73, Thanks again for organising the group buy: Have the items been sent, or do we have to wait for 10 people??? Its 2 weeks for delivery right...

AFM's basically inform the ECU of the amount of charge required to keep the hot wire at a certain temp. Thus more air running over the hot wire = more charge to keep the stable temp. Therefore if the air is pressurised & heated it may well effect the AFM's readings. It all comes down to the cooling properties of pressuries air verses un-pressurised air. Not sure if any of that makes sense Sorry, getting off topic here...

I havn't got your reply yet... Only one PM sent.

Did you get my PM?

you have pm

Did you notice much of a difference going to the split one.

About $870 AUD delivered to your door. You can get them on www.nengun.com