GunMetalR33

cheers, Yea I have taken -1 out of the entire map just to see if 1 deg would make a difference and it did so now I just have to isolate to cells at around 6000 rpm causing the knock and take a degree out or two. I would expect, leaning it out a little would make some difference...

UPDATE: Just spoke with my tuner, I was wrong about the A/F Ratio's. They are actually about 11.6:1 which is ritcher than I figured. Also on a power run it seems that the knock is happening at 6,000 rpm at full boost. Had a look at the map trace and I think we are only talking about 3 or so cells of timming that are causing the knock. If I amend those ignition cells and the knock goes away is it safe to lean it off to say 12:1 and would this make much difference to the power produced? (I am not worried about the final figure on the dyno, I was just expecting more mid range than the tune currently produces).

Hi, As the title suggests I am having a little trouble with my tune on a rb25det with a gt30 bolted on. Mods are as follows: all supporting fuel mods, pfc Pro, zaust cam gear 3' neg, 3 inch zaust etc etc etc... Oh yea, running 19.5 psi... The A/F ratios are just below 12:1 but so close you could say 12:1... after we got the fuel right we started to add timing, but once we hit about 245 kw she started to ping badly, Big Carl had the same setup and made 260 kw... I cant think why I am experiencing this pinging, possible reasons are: bad fuel? oil in the intake piping? F*ck, I dont know any ideas why I am experiencing this pinging? We did not get a chance to wind much timming into it due to the pinging... Would it be better to add a little more fuel to allow for more timming?

any pics?

Try re-setting your ecu, it might be trying to overcome the changes made through the SAFC over time. When your car pings the stock ecu also retards the timing.

I have just done a conversion to bosch 717's with no dramas. Works a treat.

On the same stick as the normal lights, kinda like the wiper speed thingy I think. PS, love the avatar

Good to hear mate, I must say I figured you were in for a ruff ride getting the thing to start. Dam electrical issues are the worst!

Is it still clear?

I have one but I left it at my tuners

can I get the gear knob cover by itself?

Where are you located? I have standard springs and shocks (but the shocks have seen better days)

I have already supplied the wiring diagram...

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R33 ECU Wiring diagram (see attached, from meggala.com) Hope this helps.

Does anybody know this? maybe SK, gtrgeoff etc

hi, Hope some one can help me with this, somebody must know... Anyway, I was wondering if the r33 ser1 (gts-t) ignitor output to the coils is negative OR positive? Ie, does the ignitor use - or + to control the spark. The reason I ask is because I am about to install a boche (spelling?) coil pack setup and have been told that some ignitors use - to control spark rather than + and if I get it wrong it would be very bad. A pinout diagram of the ignitor would be good too From memory it has 6 pins, one for each coil and if they are positve then all I have to do is hook them up to the coils and supply the ground

Is the ignitor output the positive for the coils OR negitive. Ie, do I have to feed a positive charge to the coils or does the ignitor supply this, with me supplying the ground?

Do you know if these will work on a rb25det? If so then I will take them if only one is cracked.

I think they mean 250 awkw

I am going to keep an eye on this, should be funny

What do you want for individual ones? I may need 2 or 3 non cracked ones.

Well from my experience they wont but I guess thats only cause mine are probably cracked being 10 years old an all. You will be able to run a bigger gap in your plugs with splitfires which should deliver a cleaner spark but I dont think they will be nessary unless they are cracked or something. I opted not to get them, then on the day of tuning (gt30) anything over 14 psi made huge flat spots with a spark plug gap of .6 ??? So now I have to wait another month before I can get the tune done again :{ I did get 260rwkw at 16 psi at one point though, so at least it showed what it will be capable of.

yea you should be right, by the looks of it the person before you simlpy turned the BOV into an atmo one. This does not effect your turbo but it would make you car run rich and possibly stall due to incorrect air flow meter readings. Anyway, this is an easy fix and there should not be any other BOV related things for you to worrie about.