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GunMetalR33

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Everything posted by GunMetalR33

  1. Sounds good, just a couple of questions: How big is larger? Why dont garrett do this, if anybody knows? BigCarl: You said that you made 260 from you hpInaBox GT30, what are your other mods to reach this, ie fuel system (injectors??). How does this turb compare to your old hi-flow?
  2. Me too, sounds like the only options for us are the hi-flow VG30 hybrid or the hpInabox GT30, have I missed anything??? The only other option that I can think of is the HKS GT2835 pro s but thats $4000 or so :{
  3. So can you get a garrett internally gated upgrade that is suitable for an Rb25det? apart from the modified one above
  4. I would love to get my hands on the GT3071r below if it was a T3. I agree with you in saying that the horsepowerinabox GT30 with the .63 zaust housing would not make much more than 250rwkw :{ Any idea of the price of the GT3071r??? Sorry for the hijack guys, last off topic post I promise.
  5. Sorry I think you mis-understood me mate, I am in favour of the GT30 option and was refering to the hi-flow as being a re-engineered stocker. Now that I think about it, putting a .63 nissan style zaust housing on a GT30 is some what re-engineering too
  6. GT30 turb: http://www.horsepowerinabox.com/HPIAB2/prod18.htm
  7. This hi-flow sounds like the perfect upgrade here, and correct me if I am wrong in saying this but cant you get a Garrett GT3071r that has a T3 flange and a Option for a nissan .63 ar internally gated zuast housing capable of making 280 rwkw easy for about 1900-2100 dollars???? If I had to make a choice between a engineered turbo and a re-engineered turbo I know what I would go for... Yes I know that its a RTA risk & you still have to run water & oil lines so add $250 and a heat shield.
  8. I am pretty sure that Skyline Geoff's bars are a replacment as well...
  9. pics did not work, interested though. Could you please send pics to [email protected]
  10. OK. when you look at the front of the Plenum (the thing connected to your throttle body) you will see a thin black hose comming out of it. Patch into that with a T peice. If you get some thinner pressure hose the "nipple things" will work! Then connect the const (red) and the ground (black) and see if it works? If you find that the light is always on even when the car is off then patch the const to the cigerett (spelling?) lighter wiring (thats what I did). Do this all in your engine bay first to see if it works...
  11. The MAP reading has to come from a MAP sensor. R33's have them for the stock boost gauge near the speedo but they are only good to read about 1 bar I think. They are located in the top left on the engine bay if you are look from the front of the car.
  12. The MAP reading has to come from a MAP sensor. R33's have them for the stock boost gauge near the speedo but they are only good to read about 1 bar I think.
  13. Yea, thats them. It looks like your hose is to fat to use them though :{ That yellow wire is const for sure! Here is another theory, it may be the case that it is setup to be either electrical or mechanical ???
  14. As for the pressure hose: You need a little "nipple" like thing on the end of the hose that goes into the gauge. Then when you do the bolt up it gets a little crushed and forms a seal. Go to autoBarn or some place like that and they will show you what I mean, you can get these parts there too.
  15. It might not be mechanical: It sounds to me like the MAP sensor might be in the guage it self (I know it sounds stupid but it fits the facts). This means that you need the tube in the back for the MAP sensor, const power for the MAP sensor (red), acc for the light (yellow) and ground (black).
  16. I think the australian standard is as below. I cant think why your gauge new need const power though? Does it have any memory features? If its a eletronic boost gauge (ie comes with a MAP sensor) then it should work as follows: yellow => 12v Accessories Red => must be to the MAP Sensor Black => Almost certainly be ground If that does not work swap the yellow & red wires. If its a mechanical job then: yellow => 12v Accessories Red => must be const (for memory features) Black => Almost certainly be ground
  17. The rims are why I got cheap
  18. Yea, I got cheap and didn't pay the domain registration :chairshot
  19. Yea, I think that was me. I have new gold mags now This is weird, I dont get spotted for 2 years or so then BAM, 2 spies in 3 days (its good to be seen)
  20. Yes, you should do them all at once...
  21. Hi, that was me. I have been seeing your wagon around heaps lately, looks the goods mate...
  22. Are you talking about the HKS GT2835 pro s? If so how much did it cost & what power are you getting out of it.
  23. I was thinking about the GT-RS, but you cant push it over much over 250 at the wheels on an rb25det & I would like something that can handle more just in case I get sick of 250 . I currently have 210 and that got old real fast ... But i guess if it is a lot cheaper then maybe I will have to considder it... and deal with 250 for the long haul.
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