GunMetalR33

Man, one those wheel set is priced at about $18, 000 AUD. Whats the go with that?

I am running 15 psi, with a cold air box and good FMIC. My PFC is also tuned to dump a lot of fuel at those boost levels to try and keep the temps in the zaust side of the turbo down. I think that with a good FMIC and CAB you should be able to run 14 psi if you dont cane the Sh8T out of it all day every day. 14 psi on the track would not go down to good I would think.

If you car is tuned at low rpm for cruzing and saving fuel the turn it off. If you have a normal tune then you should leave closed loop on so that the computer can make fuel corrections on the fly and save you fuel. If your oxygen sensor is old and dirty then closed loop will screw your fuel consumption...

OK, Sorry for leaving early. I ended up going for a qiuck drive with Banger (red ute ca18DET) got some flames from my zaust on camera :-}. I met Ewen but not many other SAU guys. Seemed to be a lot of Syndicate (sorry if that not correct spelling) people there. Me, Banger and Christina are from www.alwayssideways.com Ps, that area is a great drive !!!!

does any body mind if i bring some people from alwayssideways ?

Yea that was me, I have the SAU sticker on the back window...

Has there been any showing of interest yet or am I the only one?

I just put a thin tin plate between the BOV and the intake pip then bolted the bov back on with the tin plate under it.

great idea!!

we have some posted up at http://www.alwayssideways.com/picsandvids.asp You will have to be a member of the forum though, but it only takes 20 secs to do... The vids are updated every week or so.

you cant hear any noise from the engine and its runs really good and smooth. I will do the sensor check at lunch time today. How hard is it to get the the knock sensor it self?

The thread on the bar gave way so the rear right steering arm fell out. The rear right wheel started to steer my car all over the road. Lucky it was only at 80 kph. The day before this happened is was doing 200kph racing my mate :-{ That would have killed me and him

Yea he said that he could do it but said that it was not needed. He did say that he reakons that the sensor is f88ked but its really hard to drive the way I like too :-} with the engine warning light flashing in your face, its very unsettling...

on start it ranges anyway from 20 to 50 on the PFC. I dont think thats right...

Some times when cruzing around my powerfc tells me that the engine is knocking its head off. oscourse if I acellerate then engine warning light comes on. I know this sounds bad but my tuner was in the car with me monitoring the know and said that it was getting really bad when we where going over bumps. He thinks that it is stuffed as the car should not knock when cruzing at 2500 rpm. Also there is no noticable sound comming from the engine when this is occuring... What do you guys think?

I used to have a hicas lock bar but it snaped off while driving :-{ So I now have the standard Hicas setup which I have never had before. To be honest it kinda freaks me out a little. Sometimes it makes the arse of the car feel like jelly... I am slowly getting used to it though. Does anybody out there experience similar things with hicas?

I have a device that calls my mobile when my car alarm goes off. Then I can activate a relay by pushing 7 on my mobile. The relay can switch anything you want like fuel pump etc... You can also hear what is going on in the car. I think it cost me about $60, i have not got it in yet but a mate of mine has the same thing and it work fine.

Hi guys, I dont mean to steal the thread but I would like to know if this effects me? I have a r33 gts-t running about 200rwkw, when should i start to think about oil heating issues?

I had my car tuned by this guy in Queenbeyan who ownes Rice Racing. He did a great job and can tune the car as hard or soft as you like. I my opion a road tune is better than a dyno tune due to variable load and things like that (just a personal opion). You wont have to fork out sh*t cans of money for dyno time either. I had my car tuned on a dyno by Dr_Drift in melbourne and got 200rwkw. Then Peter from Rice Racing road tuned it and the car feels faster with LESS KNOCK!!!! His name is Peter Giljevic, PM me or send me an email at [email protected] if you want his phone number etc...

Yea I have a FMIC and a Apexi EBC, I can hold 1 bar till about 5000 then it drops back to 12psi till readline. I am pretty sure that it is the waiste gate

I dont use the main antenna. I forgot to plug in the antenna wire up to my head deck on install (idiot!!!! :-}) but it seems that the one in the rear windshield works just fine so i dont need the main one. Looks better too...

How much does lightweight shock proof cost, and how much do i need to fill a r33 gear box?

Take the standard boost solenoid off and put the bleed in its place

mine looks the same, I think its OK...

Over 5G the presure in the turbo zaust housing gets too great which forces the waste gate open and that is why you are losing boost. HKS sell waste gate replacments that are rated at 12 psi instead of 7psi and they should hold fine, they cost about $180 in total. This is the case for r33's but i am not sure about r32's...