GunMetalR33

How does it go again?

R33_BO: It sounds like you have a BOV that vents into the atmosphere. This means that when you change gears and alike your BOV realises air outside the air intake, which means that your engine thinks you have more air in the air intake then there actully is. It does this through your AFM (Air Fuel Meter, the thing Connected to your air Filter - black box thing). Not all cars have these so they can run atmospheric BOV's but unfortunatly Skylines do... You should look into getting a stock BOV on your car and all should be fine if the BOV is your problem... It could be other things, dirty AFM etc...

how much do SSQV's cost? $300 + I would assume. Too much money for some stupid sound. I would rather spend that on an EBC

I have spacers like Demon and had to get longer wheel studs anyway. Tyre places in canberra wont work on my wheels because of the spacers...

Anybody got gun metal r33 sideskirts?

sorry cant help you there, cant i ask how you did the diagnosis?

Is a HKS SSq and plum back BOV?

I just blocked of my standard BOV to get that Flutter sound. It works great apart from some back fires :-} Is this going to F8ck my turbo?

That is but ugly

Thanks for the info steve, its good to see you are will to post some lengthy threads to help others out! My knock levels never go over 48 according to the PFC, I think I have a conservative tune and I also get about 380 k no a tank in a r33 gts-t does all this sound about right? note: I have about 200rwkw...

I would also like some info on this topic, this is what I know so far. *First make sure that the pfc knows that you dont have the boost kit. *Tell the pfc what afm you have (eg normal or super intake for 300z etc...) *Use the map tracer to find where you are on the map. *The top row on the 20 x 20 maps is revs and the one on the left side is load *From the stock map you are goig to have to advance the timing for the top half of the map and pull some fuel out (BE CAREFULL OF KNOCKING!!!!!!!). If you advance the timing too much you car will go bang. *I think the trick is to run as much timing as you can without getting any knock, you can acheive this by adding fuel at the top end. (You will need a bigger fuel pump). *If you are running more boost than stock you may need a new afm as the stock one will max out, Note I have not done this as you can guess after it maxes out as the rb25 is pretty linear. (Not sure if this is a good thing or not?) This is only what i think i know, please dont take it as absolute fact :-} Some one out there should correct me pretty quickly anyway :-}

Is your car a r32 or r33, r34. If its a r32 then like sewid said, its probably power steering fluid. Otherwise its a electronic problem as the R33 has an electronic hicas system, Ie there are no hydrolics involved. Pedars seem to know a little about these, do a search on hicas error codes and a like, it might yeld some results... Sorry I could not be more help, you might just need a wheel alignment or one of the wires may have come loose if you have a r33...

if any body else wants to throw a few bevies down you are welcome to join banger and me at the kingo, we are leaving now though :-} be at the pool tables out the back...

Yep, if the yellow light yee see, trouble there be...

You dont need a surge tank unless you like running till your tank is almost empty, they are not really needed unless you do track work or something like that. I reakon you would be better spending the money on something else. Dont know what pump you should go for, I have a supra TT Jap Spec which flows way better than a GTR one and you can get them fairly cheap.

working hard I see Banger :-} are we heading to the kingo at lunch?

its fine to gap iridiums, mine are gapped to .7 just be carefull when doing it

You should get it fixed soon, as the rear wheel alignment might be out slighty due to the hicas not working properly. If thats the case then you could be scrubbing your rear tyres. My hicas light came on during a trip to melbourn, by the time I got there from canberra both my rear tyres (19 , 275's) were f*cked... Ended up costing me $1400 to replace :-{

Your plugs might be the wrong heat range for the boost you are running. I think you should run 6's if running standard or close to standard. For anything above that you should run 7's but this is just an idea if nothing else is working...

first taste was an rx7 running about 450rwkw, I saw it break a strap on the dyno and almost come off the rollers. funny stuff :-}

My mate has a dato 1200 ute with a ca18det in it, the car goes like a rocket and is really fun to drive :-} However, we put a boost gauge in yesterday to see if it was only running 12 psi like the seller said, and what do we see on the gauge... 20 f*cking psi. The car has a GT28 turbo (huge turbo for the engine, i know but fun none the less) Anyway my question is what psi can the ca18det take with standard internals? we have bumped it down to 16 psi but it needs a new tune now... Other mods include: stinger ems, FMIC, exhaust etc, etc...

I use NGK Irraway7's gapped at .65 for 14 pound and they were great (helped me to 200 RWKW). They are fu*cking expensive though I think about $23 each... I might change back to 6's for winter though as the 7's dont like the cold canberra mornings....

My friend order the set the that happy tree friends stuff, It is well worth it !!!!

whould you be willing to sell the gril by it self?

defect sticker?