GunMetalR33

If you talk to Jay95R33 he can sort you out with some plans for a cold air box which is very good! (I use it my self & it made a huge difference and this was in winter!)

What sewid means is: The stock cooler is very un-efficient, therefore when your boost gauge says that you are at 14psi your turbo is probably (for args sake) pushing out say 16psi or maybe more! I know a lot of people will tell you that you can run 14 psi of a stock r33 turbo and to my mind they are right, just make sure that you have a after market cooler that is reasonably efficient before doing so. Remember: You might achieve more power by running a little less than 14psi with a stock turbo...

OK, before getting a (apexi Super AFC used for adjusting A/F ratio's about $700 bucks? not sure) Try turning your boost down to about 12psi, In most cases the standard turbo on an r33 will not run efficiently at 14 psi and may even produce less power at 14 psi. Untill you get you car dynoed at the different boost levels you wont know for sure but i would run 12 psi for now to try and resolve your flat spotting. Also see if you can get that stock BOV to try and solve your starting issues. If turning the boost down does not solve your problem it could be that one of your coil packs are shagged :-{, once again getting one of a mate to do some tests would be your best bet as you dont want to waist money buying coil pack (about $125 sh)...

Like J said your BOV could be leaking air therefore making your AFM readings incorrect. Lots of people experience stalling issues because of this. As for the Flat spots at high boost I'am with muffas in saying that your plugs could be F*cked or they may not be gapped for high boost (.8). Remember that the inlet cam changes it posi to increase the pull at 4500 rpm which will also be contributing to your flatties becuase the fuel fixture really get rich when this happens. So i guess if i was you i would: 1) close after market bov, or borrow standard one? 2) Check & gap plugs 3) Wind the boost down to 12psi (R33 stock computer will perform ignition cut (what people call boost cut) any where from 11psi to 14psi depending on the particular car) I am not sure if you fuel cut defender will stop this? 4) Get SAFC to lean out A/F ratio at higher RPMS. Hope this actually helps & iam not just full of Sh*T :-} Good luck with it all

I had a look throught the menu, and it doesnt mention anything about boost cut? Do you know if it is in the settings menu or the etc menu?

Thanks for, Its a good idea. Can most paint places do that?

I have just got my hands a a spay gun and compressor and work like to paint a new wing I got. Does anybody know how I can get my hands on the R33 Gun Metal Grey color? Ps, Any hints on preparing the wing before painting, its a r33 series 2 wing? thanks in advance...

Yea, I have it booked in for 27 of jan but I am getting board of stock boost :-}. The reason I also ask is just in case the tuner does not know how ot do it? As I dont think this is a problem with the standard PFC...

I have contacted apexi and they say that my power FC Pro is set so that when you are using the base map it will not boost over stock (ignition cutting). Does anybody know how to turn this off? and can you tell what the air fuel rations are from the hand controller?

On a rb 25 det the adjustable cam gears should get you about 5-10 rwkw set at 4degs and a little less at 3 degs but with more mid range power... hope that helps

I had to tell the PFC that there was no boost controller to get the car to start.

OK, I just did a run and have decided that the PFC is performing ignition cut when over stock boost! Has anybody out there run a PFC with a bleed value (not electronic boost controller)? Ps, There are no warning signals lighting up...

No reset needed

I just put my pFC into my GTS-T and things are not going well. I am just running with the base map at the moment and have it booked in for a tune for late jan. I have a turbo smart bleed valve running 13psi on high and stock on low (about 7psi). When i have it set to high boost the car runs like some body has put a orange up the exhaust (it almost feels like some sort of really fine ignition cut)? On stock it run OK, I though it might be the fact that the PFC's base map is not designed for our fuel, or maybe the PFC does not run with bleed valves? PS, there are no warning lights displayed or anything like that and the car is holding boost so I dont think there are any leaks in the piping for the FMIC or anything like that. Any idea's

When i got my turbo timer the price was inclusive, Ie the price you see is to your door.

I am getting the powerFC from greenline, so it will be second hand. I gues this means that i will have to re-set it, is it the same as resetting the stock ecu? Does it learn after a reset like the stock ecu?

I am about to buy a PFC Pro, I have a series 1 r33 which to mind comes a shitty fuel map from the stock ecu. I was wondering if i can install the pfc and drive around with it untunded. I have been told that the pfc's come pre tuned with some sort of stock like map. Is this true? The issue here is that I live in canberra and have to drive to sydney to get it tuned. I was hoping that the pfc stock map would be better than the ser 1 stock ecu map.

Pics of side skirts please! How much do you want for them?

lol, na mostly doco for the car, (rego adn such)

BOOSTD: That looks very nice, good job... Unfortunatly i really need my glovebox space.

In the ash tray shounds good, does anybody have pics or instructions on how to?

yea I have my Boost gague on the steering column. I want to look a stuff like rpm, 0-100 times and so on...

Has anybody out there got pictures of where they placed there TT timers? Mine is placed just above my left leg but I cant ever see it and want to move it, any suggestions please...

Is it supposed to stick out like that, hard to tell with the angle. If so do it look good from other angles?

thanks fo info