GunMetalR33

Yea, a lot of power to timmy is 140rwkw or what ever his old beamer used to make I have about 260 now and plenty of guys run that sort of power for a while. But I think you are right, engine is starting to get a little tired now

PS => if the rings are worn which I am sure they are (at least a little) how long will they last. Will they continue to wear or will they just sh*t them selves one day :{ Also how much for a re-build with forgies if I take the engine out and deliver it??? Just after a ball park figure. I am tring to save for a house :{

Thanks for all the replies. To answer a few questions: 1)Yes I am sure its fuel, very little oil, only enough to slightly discolour the fuel. 2)I run .6 of gap to stop flat spotting. Anymore gap and it flat spots. However I have removed a big restriction in my zuast since gapping the plugs down so I might gap them out and see what happens. 3)The max compression in was 150 psi in one cyclinder with the rest being within 10%. Most above 140 psi. Could it be a head gasket problem? I am running 19 psi (yea forgot to mention that)

Anyone, I cant be the first one this has happened too

That's what I figured but there is no oil in the catch can and the compression in all 6 cylinders is within 10% of each other. If the rings were worn it would show on the compression test and I would think there would be oil in the catch can???

I have been having a problem with flat spotting. I run NGK plugs with a heat range of 7 and on cold canberra winter mornings they flat spot until I get some boost over them, then they are fine. I have tried using a heat range of 6 and they dont flat spot in the morning but they do flat spot with higher boost levels and they also knock a little higher (I am guessing pre-ignition)...So I am sticking with the 7's gapped at .6 Anyway could this flat spotting be the reason why my catch can has fuel in it? The catch can does not feedback into the inlet and I have blocked the PCV valve. Also does a smaller gap rob you of any power? Any ideas on the matter would be great thanks in advance.

I use a feeler (spelling?) gauge to measure the gap of my plugs, then tap the top of the plugs on the wall until the gap is right. Checking the gap after every couple of taps...

Probably, but if you are running a little more boost that is no longer relevant. If your running stock boost then you could prob get away with 1.1 gap which is what they will most likely come with but running .8 wont cause any issues anyway.

5's are too hot, might be OK if you are running sh*t all boost but I would stick to 6's, or if you run a lot of boost (over 1.3 bar) you should probably run 7's... Did you set the spark plug gap to .8???

The port selection might be stored in the registry of your computer. An uninstall should clear the setting but may not. You could try running regedit and have a look around for anything that resembles settings for the Datascan software, but be vary cafefull not to F*ck with anything not related with the nissan stuff or you could screw your computer. Alternatively the port setting might be stored in a .INI file some where on your HD. I have never used the software so dont really know for sure, but I write software for a living and those two places are where I would store such a setting. maybe searching for Datascan.ini or nissan.ini might yeld some results. Also have a look in "program files" for the install directory, there might be a datafile in there with the setting. just guessing though, as I said I dont know anything about the Datascan software...

We un kinked the fuel return line and tried to turn it over. Problem now is that the battery is flat and needs a jump. I also think that it will now take a awhile to get to start once the battery is charged due to the massive amount of flooding. The other day we took the sparkies out and the amount of fuel in the cylinders was amazing. Will try again on the weekend when we have some jumpers etc.

Nooooooooooooo!!!!!, Block by work internet filter

Thanks for the reply mate, The ECU we are running is a Stinger EMS and timing etc should be fine. Your comments make sense as it seems to be really rich! Will fix it this arvo, thanks again.

Hi guys, Me and a mate just installed a sencond hand ca18det in his 1200 ute. He previously had one in so the swap was fairly straight foward, only problem is now the dam thing wont start. We have confirmed that there is spark and plenty of fuel and we noticed last night that the fuel return line was kinked, but not completly blocked. If we block the fuel delivery line the it turns over smooth but wont start, if the fuel delivery line is not kinked it almost starts but the turn over is very lumpy. After tring all this you can smell fuel in the zaust etc. Could the fuel return line kink be causing the engine to richen up therefore preventing it from starting?

I have a Garrett GT30 turbo on my rb25 which has a gt30 comp housing, GT30 cartridge and a VG30 zaust housing. Mine is the 6 blade version and pulls very hard with good mid range, top end and minimal lag (comes on hard at around 3500rpm). I beleive that the 7 blade versions of the GT30 had problems with lag and surging with the VG30 zaust housings. Got the turbo from HPInABox for about $2000.

Sh*t all you have to do is go to NS to see far worse then we have here.

Mine must have been custom like the $360 solution you are talking about. You could carry a surf board on mine easy, as long as you tie it down right.

Yeap, I have some. Got them second hand off this forum. They are Thule (spelling?) ones and can easily be removed. You can get attachments for bikes and storage racks etc as well. Dont know about the price, I got mine for $200...

come on guys, some one must know what 71V means??? There might be a VG30 housing up for grabs if we get to the bottom of this...

Here are the pics of both housings. The one on the turbo is the housing marked with 71V. The other spare one is the R34/VG30 housing. Can anyone tell me what housing I currently have on my turbo and if it is worth swapping the housings?

I will post up pics tomorrow of both housings and go from there.

Morning all, I reciently purchased a turbo housing with 0P6 stamped on it which I know is a R34 / vg30 turbo housing. This was to replace what I though to be a r33 housing on the back of my gt30. The current housing has 71V stamped on it and seems to be the same size (both snails are the same width) as the 0P6 one. Can anyone tell me what the current (71V) one is, I thought maybe an early vg30 one???

If anyone finds out that they have a stuffed coil I have 6 x rb25 series 1 ones. I replaced them as they were no good for 19psi.

For trying to sell an electronic super charger

Off Topic PHAT32: "F*ck you with our middle fingers", ha ha ha What ever happened to that guy?