Swink33

Thats an impressive list of uprgrades. I'm looking forward to seeing pics of the completed work and the dyno sheets. Good luck. Hope all goes well for ya

bump

When Wolverine talks about 'leaning on it' he is talking about continually driving the car hard on boost. He is not talking about running the engine lean fueling wise. I would not run a stock R33 turbo beyond 12 PSI or .85 BAR as running anymore boost doesn't result in increased power but rather increased heat whch eventually will kill the turbo.

Does the car come with original log books to confirm?? J-Spec (import agent) have the Japanese registration details 2002-2006 which shows the progression of the km's over the years. Unfortunately we don't have the log books but an inspection of the car will satisfy the fussiest buyer that the km's are genuine. The car is essentially in brand new condition. Any serious potential buyers can ask for more photos as I have 330+ photos of the car taken from all angles as part of an inspection report done in Japan when we purchased it and they confirm the quality of the car.

Includes 2 sets of original GTR keys with remotes for factory immobiliser

1. 2002 R34 GTR M Spec Nur with tasteful mods 2. 2005 Brabus EV12 Bi-turbo (537kw/1100NM/350kph top speed) 3. 2006 Gembella Avalanche GTR 650

I hear that the B4's mid range torque hole can be fixed with an aftermarket computer and a good tuner. It may be an option worth considering if you are a 'spirited' driver.

The reason for selling is that my fathers boss and my mum dislike the car and don't believe it is appropriate for a 58 year old executive. My father has now been provided with an brand new AUDI A4 2.0T Quattro company car so the GTR has regretfully got to go. My father wanted to keep the GTR as a weekend car but it just doesn't get used enough.

Immaculate R34 GTR, low k's, 2001 update model, very reluctant sale This car has been imported with Japan Auction Grade 4.5 with intention to keep long term. Very reluctant sale. The car is in showroom condition and is stock standard except for catback Nismo exhaust. Brand new Goodyear Eagle F1's. 12 months registration included. Genuine 47,000k's and standard dash. Comes with english driver's manual and workshop manual on CD. Non-smokers car. This car is not one of the many 1999 models. It is a 2001 update model which had black interior, clear indicators, aluminium pedals, larger rear brakes and this dark grey colour. Many more photos provided upon request of genuine interested buyers. See how clean the car really is! Genuine enquiries only. No joy riders. Call Robin: 0419 371 977

I would recommend - highflow panel filter (K&N or Apexi) $70 - EBC - Greddy Profec B $400 approx - SAFC/ E-manage or preferrable 2nd hand Power FC (if you can find one) - $250-1000 - possibly fuel pump (Walbro/Bosch 040/Nismo/Denso?Tomei etc) $160-$400 - you don't want the stock one to fail and lean at higher revs which could cause engine failure From there I would look at suspension, wheels and tyres so that your car will handle better to take advantage of extra power. Depending on how you drive it, you may want to start saving for a HD clutch also. Otherwise good luck and enjoy your ride - they are great cars!

Go 18's for the best compromise between style and performance. Wide rear rims/tyres look tuff aswell as being purposeful. I would recommend a proper proven brand (Rays, Enkei, Work etc) or rims rather than heavy inferior Chinese knock offs

Ultimate - as I have a BP 100 meters up the road and it seems to be recommended by most people here. It is also only 10 cents per litre more expensive than ULP. Synergy 8000 was about a 12 cent premium and Shell's old Optimax Extreme 100RON with ethanol (I assume its now called V Power Racing) was about 15 cents per litre more expensive than ULP. I have used Synergy 8000 before and that was really good - the car ran smooth and got good mileage out of it.

I find there are two noises. There is the noise that is the climate control. The best way to reduce this noise I found was to turn the fan speed up to full for a bit then turn it back down again and the noise seems to be a lot less noticable. The other pulsing noise that I think JodieR33Chick is refering to actually comes from behind the dash. My car made that noise for a few weeks after I got my car. Then it mysteriously went away and only comes back very occaisionally. I thought it may have to do with the dramatic change in climate from Japan to Australia (I'm first Aussie owner) and that it was something behind the dash expanding in the heat. It may sound stupid but I don't know how else to explain the pulsing noise as it seems to be so inconsistent.

Thanks for the info. I will have the calipers checked out. Hopefully a rebuild is not necessary

I put the Brake Disc Quiet on my noisy pads and it still hasn't helped. I have RB74's all round and unless I drive the car hard the pads and rotors seem to glaze over but even when the pads are hot they still make some noise. I have decided to go back to standard OEM pads because I also know how embarrassing it is to stop at the lights while screeching and having everybody stare at you. It really detracts from the pleasure of driving the car. Would changing to slotted rotors solve my problem? I'm inclined to just change the pads but I would prefer to keep the pads if I can make them quiet.

I had an 040 that failed on me. It just got really noisy sometimes then it became all the time followed by fuel cut. I promptly changed it with a Denso pump (also made by Bosch). The reason I was given for the failure was that I had a lot of crap in the bottom of the tank. I got the tank flushed and have not had a problem since. The Denso is also a lot quieter. I have also heard that the filter in the 040 is not very good at filtering out rubbish compared with the sock design of most other pumps. From my experience it is well worth spending extra on a proper Nismo, Tomei or Denso pump and save yourself the potential hassles.

I definately know they are an option on the R34 GTR's - but how do you tell if you have them though?

That thing is disgracefully ugly.

When I first got my car it used to ping at about 4,000 rpm after having it on the road about six weeks. I got new spark plugs gapped at 0.8 and it solved the problem. My car was stock at that time except for a catback exhaust.

There is not a whole lot different between the V-spec/V-spec2's and non V-spec. V-spec's were made from 1999- October(ish) 2000 then V-spec 2's were released until production was ended in 2002. V-spec/V-spec 2's have a viscous LSD as opposed to mechanical. V-spec/Vspec 2's have harder suspension and underbody air diffusers front and rear. They also have intake and exhaust temperature displayed on the dash screen. There is no real difference between V-spec and V-spec 2 except for a bonnet vent on the v-spec 2. V-spec 2 was released to coincide with a minor facelift given to all GTR's from October 2000 on. The facelift included: black interior instead of grey, clear indicators, stainless steel pedals, larger rear brakes and a few different paint colours. My father is currently selling his GTR - http://www.carsales.com.au/used-cars/priva...|1&trecs=21

G'day, Here are a few pics of my car. It's got 18X8's at front and 18X9's at the rear. They are Rays Volk Challenge F-Zero's. They set the car off really well. All I need now is to sort my suspension (Whiteline & Bilstein group buy) so I can get that tough squated look.

Yeah i have been waiting for about 5 weeks for mine. I assume it will arrive within the next 2 weeks hopefully

I have had my fairly modifiedf R33 for just over a year now and never had any problems. I am still on my P's. I even work on Chapel Street on the weekends. I have only ever been pulled over once and licence checked, breath tested and let go. I have mates with modified cars that are continually hassled. I reckon you only get hassled if you are low, loud, have an aftermarket body kit or doing something stupid. Its just a risk you have to accept. I am off my P's in mid July so I am thinking I should be alright. I reckon after July 1 any P plater driving a 'banned car' will possibly get 3 points and $215 fine (what the current 3 point speeding fine is) Only if you get caught multiple times would you be looking at anything close to $1100 - but thats just my interpretation

Can I please get a quote for front and rear slotted rotors for a R33 GTS25T? Cheers

I got a fresh set of RB74's installed front and rear about 2 months ago (discs were also machined) and I have had nothing but squeal from them. I have taken the car back multiple times and had the pads and discs cleaned up and also the shims adjusted, even a special spray put on the discs. The noise was better for about a week but after the spray weared off the noise came back. The guy who installed my pads said that my car is the first he has installed RB74's on that has made noise. I'm going to put some of that CRC disc quiet red goo on and hopefully that sorts it. It is driving me insane and is also quite embarassing. I have also had a set of Ultimates and they were dreadful. They were very noisy and chewed into my rotors.