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Guilt troy, I'm shopping for power fc. And I'm asking for an opinion. I can get a rb25powerfc for about 1200-1300usd. I got z32 afm already. Now I can get rb26 pfc for around 800usd l-jetro or d-jetro. Which one should I go though ? If I go rb26 d-jetro I could save lots of money Just don't want to save here to get bad results everywhere. So I'm asking for opinion. Thanks!

Ok, I misinterpret your meaning about the steering rack mods. Now I got some questions about those particular paragraphs above. One is how do you correct Bump steer ? And how do you correct Ackerman ? I assume "Simplistically 1 mm toe out for every 10 degrees of steering angle" the figures that you quoted are supposed to be normal or/and advised on a good handling car, right ? The last question is: how do you correct Ackerman angle ? If its too hard to explain it to me right now, can you pls point out some books/websites/articles that could get my understanding up to the level you can explain it freely to me ? Thanks!

One question, why does it still have z32 AFM ? Ain't the d-jetro MAP version ? :confused:

SK, thanks for all the tips. So you reckon all the druft-trendy steering lock enhancement options are all crap ? Like steering rack spacers, longer tie rods, modification of hubs/knuckles ? Sorry to bother you with my questions, SK, but could you specify a desired ride height for A31 ? I tried to use R32 figures you posted before, maybe I'm wrong ? Thanks in advance!

any pics of the boot mount setup ? sounds interesting!

Where I live there are no dynos also ))) I got wideband, got laptop, got wireless CDMA card for wireless internet. What else do I need ?))) Damn, Guricha, u are a mastermind. How come I didn't think of that LOL

Remote tuning - this is new )) Can I apply also ?

Any suggestions on increasing steering lock ? Or some info about TEIN longer inner/outer tie rods ? Or no good to go this way ?

Hey, guys, any more input on my case ? thanks! )))

Here you go, comp cover.

Yeah, here you go.

Here are the pics of the RB specific HKS2530 I've found on the internet. And you can see the cartridge tag pretty clearly. What I'm thinking is if I would be able to slot the gt2860rs cartridge inside ? Or maybe there is a Garrett alternative available already ? Thanks!

Hi! Here are the pics of the RB specific HKS2530 I've found on the internet. And you can see the cartridge tag pretty clearly. What I'm thinking is if I would be able to slot the gt2860rs cartridge inside ? Or maybe there is a Garrett alternative available already ? Thanks!

I don't think you can bend tie rods that easy. The only thing that comes to my mind, is when the you hit full lock/bump stop they become pretty fragile. I'm watching my lock ))) So I don't think I could bend them that easy.

Hey, Gary! Thanks for looking into this thread! Truth ain't harsh I think I can achieve the camber degrees you've mentioned in the post. As for the caster - big no. I got stock arms. And if I remember its either 5 or 6 degrees caster. I will check the ride height today to get the right figures. If I remember correctly my front is 355mm, and rear is 360mm. I went with the lowest spring rates - 6kg front, 4kg rear. Could be 5kg in the rear. I forgot what was the standard for them. Swaybars: front - 30.32mm, rear - 28.16mm Godspeed - Front bar 30.5mm, 28.29mm in the rear. Tubular chromoly construction. Stock type endlinks. Note this bar uses CRUSH bends instead of mandrel on higher quality bars. As from here: http://en.wikibooks.org/wiki/Nissan_240SX_...ation/Sway_Bars I went with the solid mount rear subframe spacer because at that time I got the car, rear subframe bushings were shagged and I had to do something to cure the rear subframe movement. Right now I'm considering something else. There are several options today: Nismo subframe bushings with Whiteline subframe alignment pineapples, Full alloy bushing replacements + Whiteline pineaples, Noltec bushings + Whiteline pineapples. I haven't made up my mind yet, which way to go. Some advice here would be appreciated. SK, about steering lock, Ackerman and bump steer. I have standard tie rods, inner rods. And opted for the longer lower control arms from S14. Like r32 guys do with r33 LCAs. I think I got more lock with them, but my steering became a bit dull I think. A31 steering rack is the same as S13 one. So its got more lock than r32s to start with. What I know about bump steer and Ackerman is really not worthwhile mentioning. Read a few articles and only thing I remember if we change the position of the steering rack it would result in wrong Ackerman angle and bump steer. This rule also applies to car being too low. I don't really know what is bump steer in the rear life, but I don't think I ever experienced it in my car. Lets say I go 80km/h and there is a slight road height difference, car hops just for a moment. And car doesn't go wild after that, stays on the line. Actually I'm considering TEIN longer inner rods and tie rods to get more lock. But I will wait for your input, SK. Really want to hear and learn from first hand experience. I don't have stashes of money to through in the window, so I have to think 3-4times about every step of modification. Thanks!

Hi! I've been budgeting my car build. And I got to the point where I had to choose whether to start saving money for those adjustable pillow-ball/spherical bearing arms or not. Car is A31, so we are talking about s13 front suspension. I got Tein Flex coilovers, fat sway bars front/rear, polyurethane bushings everywhere, alloy rear subframe lockers(not the whiteline rear subframe alignment ones), stock suspension arms all around except for the front(s14 lcas - longer). I will be doing some drifting work at the track. And car would be used as daily 70% of the time. Is it really necessary to go with the adjustable arms for the track ? Only thinking about those pillow-balls getting shagged, harsh ride is giving me a hard time already. I have enough adjustment to do wheel alignment for track work. And my car is not uber low. 350-360 front/345-355 rear. I like how my car feels like. But this myth about stock suspension arms bending/braking and not enough adjustment is there. So I'm asking for some good advice here. Would really appreciate some input from SK. Thanks! And share some personal experience people! There has to be a fair amount of people who attend track days, driving the car hard there/drifting.

yes rb26 inj. bolt straight on.

What I mean is the slower you go, the faster your temps should go up. Ain't it so ? To aid this I was hoping to add another oil cooler to cool things down a bit.

What about slower stuff ? top 1st, top 2nd gear. Would your oil/water temps still stay the same ?

350/345 will look lover than stock.

Shop for FLEX. U should get them around that price.

Hey, mind asking to take pics of front and rear suspension ? I want to see if its interchangeable with other nissans s/r-chassis.

Looking for pics! Thanks!

My one sits in the drivers wheel guard. Near the bumper. No ducting. 19 rows.

I'm looking into adding another oil cooler in my car. Don't want the oil temps to climb like they do now. Purpose: drifting. Thanks!