Jump to content
SAU Community

robots

Members
  • Posts

    788
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Feedback

    100%

Everything posted by robots

  1. hows s14 powersteering rack compared to A31 ?
  2. I got a LM-1 wideband. And EMU can datalog AFRs and Knock also. So any tips on road tuning ? What to start with ? How to progress ?
  3. I've spent countless hours trying to find a dyno over here(beijing, china). And No. There are no dynos around here. The only one available would be around 3000kms away from me and will cost me arm or more. There are few options available: road tuning and vehicle speed testing rollers. 1) Road tuning is the easy choice, but a bit difficult/unsafe task to do on the public roads. Also its hard to find that kind of long strip road with a few cars, and thats easily accessible. And I don't get how could you load all the cells on the map on the road ? U can't keep the car at the same speed/accell. rate. If I don't understand the concept of the road tuning, maybe someone will enlighten me a bit? Like I got a factory map, then I've installed inj, z32 afm, bigger turbo. And control it with EMU. How should I start mapping? Run standard boost. Go to 3/4th gear? Make a 10-20% open throttle pull. And datalog the run. And if the a/fs are alright, do another run with 30-40% open throttle? And till WOT ? When the afrs would be ok. Try to add a few degrees timing advance? More input on road tuning would be good. 2) They got these vehicle speed test rollers. To test your vehicle speedometer accuracy or something. Probably similar to those rollers that are used to pass emissions test. What if I go and try those rollers ? I've heard they can read as high as 160-180km/h max speed. It would be enough for the 3rd gear pull. Also doing some engine tuning on those rollers would result in less rick of causing some stupid situation on the road. Then is the load. I don't think u can apply enough load to the engine using this method. So it won't be even 70% correct with the real world road tune. Really hope for some more input from the tuners here. Thanks!
  4. Can anyone post the full garrett part number for the real gt3071r with IW and 2.75'' inlet, not the 4inch one ? Would really appreciate it. I'm confused with all garrett specs.
  5. So if my crank is not worn and all within nissan specs, I just order std without these HX for some more oil clearance, right?
  6. Damn me trying to be an engine builder (((
  7. I have around 2k for parts for both engines. I got 444cc inj. Got EMU. Z32 AFM. And all the supporting mods. I want some 240+rwkw form the RB25 for street/occasional drift days. rb20 will be a daily mostly. Just want something over 200rwkw with good response. Nothing mental.
  8. So you've checked your crank with the manual specs. If its all within normal - u get std bearings, right?
  9. I've been doing some homework yesterday, reading lots of stuff about the gt3071 on SAU. And finally made up my mind. That a "real" Garrett GT3071R IW is a pretty good turbo for RB25 for lazy(low boost) 240+rwkw. Is it this one? http://www.turbobygarrett.com/turbobygarre...1R_700382_3.htm At the same moment I'm also looking to buy a decent turbo for my rb20. I think gt3071 will be a bit overkill for rb20 in terms of lag. In case you guys can prove me wrong. 1) I wanted something more responsive from my rb20 and the discopotato was always in my head. The problem was with the turbine flange, it was always a t25. Until I found a turbine housing with t3 inlet and ford 5 bolt out. Here is the thing: http://www.frsport.com/Turbocharger-Turbin...sing_c_250.html You can buy a full turbo assy with the t3 turbine inlet, but I'm a tight ass with my rb20 and I wanted to buy a turbine housing only. Then just get some chinese gt28rs and slap its compressor on the turbine housing. Then the final part. What size ? I thought A/R 63 will be perfect for the RB20. What do you guys think ? Also should I get the IW one or go with external wastegate? I have all the parts for the external. Just want to spend less time installing all the bits. And driving the thing sooner. In that case which one is a better go ? 2) A for the rb25. Those guys also have a GT3071R (http://www.frsport.com/Garrett-GT3071R-Dual-ball-Bearing-Turbo---Options_p_7839.html). But they didn't bother specifying the exhaust A/Rs and other options. Only discription I found is this: "Turbine housing style available in Standard GT or with T3/T4 Ford Style 5 bolt turbine housing. Compressor housing is T04E frame size with 2.00 outlet. Compressor inlet is available with 2.75 or 4.00 inlet." Which one of that is the real GT3071R? Or should I just send them the garrett p/n and hope that they can get it for me ? Thanks in advance!
  10. Who they ?))) Sorry. Also why are nissan bearings graded and all other aftermarket ones are just 3 sizes? Isn't it better to go with nissan ones, no?
  11. Hi! I'm looking to buy some bearings for my engines(rb20/rb25). Judging from other people engine specs people usually get ACL or King H/L bearings. I went to ACL website and to my confusion they only have std/0.20/0.50 bearing sizes. How the hell should you buy them for a standard motor ? Nissan has this grade system, you check all the marks, compare them to the manual and get the correct bearings. What about ACL then? Does it mean they are inferior ? Or I don't understand something. Looking forward to the replies. Thanks!
  12. what is the part number for nismo pump ? is it r32 gtr one ? or which one ?
  13. We need more videos like this in the dyno sections )) Under the dyno print outs lol. Looks like fun
  14. those cheap chinese low mounts don't even fit lol. don't waste your money. stock one is better probably lol.
  15. Hi! I'm planning to purchase some whiteline adjustable swaybars for my a31. I know that a31 uses s13 suspension. Seems that s14 get thicker front/rear swaybars from whiteline, so I'm confused which ones should I better get. Need some advice. Also what kind of thickness do guys use in their drift cars ? I have some cheap solid swaybars from s13 now. And they are around 30mm in the front and around the same at the rear. Which I think is a bit stiff and they are not adjustable. Which is a minus. I want to get a better swaybars (hollow+adjustable) for my tein flex coilovers that will arrive soon. To make a small overhaul in my handling department. Let me know what you guys think. Any advice or input is appreciated ! Thanks!
  16. I got n-4 harness also. Check my posts above. Modded to suit rb20. Need to swap inj in/out #4and#6 in the emanage harness, not the factory ecu harness. And just work your way with Ne/G and Ar/A. I think my Ne/G stayed the same and EMU has no problem of picking up ign. timing. Ar/A just swap them with the wires of identical color. You should get your 1 det sensor and water temp sensor working to activate auto-tune later.
  17. Hey, I did check the wire diagrams. And apparently rb26/rb25 inj 6 and 4 is the same. And rb20 have them switched.
  18. Just use your electrics, wiring, engine sensors and your intake pining before the throttle body with BOV. Thats it. Plugs are different to r32 rb20. Square plugs for laurel vs round plugs for r32. Otherwise same engine. And use your R32 ECU.
  19. Maybe videos ? And how can the rb20 sound be different on r32 or cefiro ?
  20. Just to make sure I wouldn't damage the AFM. Can I clean it with a carb cleaner ? Or there is a better option ? Or maybe carb cleaner is not suited for that job ? Thanks for the response!
  21. Heh, those 120db did get into your head ))) Maybe some links to the sound clips ? Wanna hear that scream ))
×
×
  • Create New...