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Mods: stock engine, fmic, stock exhaust, bosch 040 fuel pump. I checked the intercooler piping and its seems intact. I will go have some fun with my car today. Maybe go get another AFM.

I looked at all the piping and it seems to be all in place. If I understand correctly it won't idle ok and it won't show -.7 vacuum at idle. As no piping - leak, unregistered air is going in.

Hi! My rb20 is playing on me. Yesterday I went for a drive. Car was ok for pretty much whole time, normal driving, could boost etc. Than I tried to have a speed test with s14 sr20det from. Turned on my boostcontroller, installed recently. Profecb, tuned to 0.6-0.7 at 1,2,3 gear. Standing, 1,2,3(gave it some revs), go. 1 st gear pulling, 2nd gear car jurks, no boost. I stop immediately. Idle revs not stable, can't drive a car at all, no power under load. Checked all the hoses, seemed fine and in place. Vacuum at idle : -.7 bar, can rev but with some misfire around 2k. Revs stable at idle. Than I turned the engine off to let it rest for a bit. Turned on again in 10-15 min, same. Puffed some black smoke when I put in 1st gear and gave it some revs just to move. On the road home I had to built some revs, around 2-3 k and engage the clutch to make it drivable, without doing it it woulnd't built revs with WOT at all, just drop rev and stall. Came home hooked up consult, no errors - code 55. Unplugged AFM, 2500 limiter. Here are some vids shot yesterday and today. It was a bad idea to get out of the basement park with such problems, but had no choice, had to do it anyway. Yesterday consult: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Touv0v_TSko http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Krp-y-Fc8tA Today revs under load, driving: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=E3Xf99kv0g0 http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xxD_TbGoR5Q http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HGowIKq2JGw http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HGowIKq2JGw http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=a1vcYxoasiU http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Wdu9lumNuuc My ideas: Fuel pump. (I have bosch 040, maybe it died ?) shows 2.5 bar at idle. Like it should. AFM died ? Timing belt jumped a tooth ? .Sorry for my english LOL. Looking forward for some ideas. Thanks!

Hehe u are lucky u didn't get it on fire Be carefull.

Alloy is better at disposing heat.

Hi! Where do you guys take the boost readings from your RB20/RB25s ? On hcr32 they have a special nozzle at the back of the intake plenum for the factory boost gauge, u can use it with the aftermarket boost gauge. But what about the boost controllers, should one also take the reading from that nozzle via t-piece or just get it from the turbo like factory or even drill a nozzle in intercooler piping before throttle body ? Which is more accurate ? I've tried to get the boost reading from the factory boost gauge noozle at the back of the intake plenum for the turbo actuator. Just blocked the compressor hose, and run the hose from the boost guage noozle directly to the actuator. It felt like it pulled harder vs factory, but the boost didn't raise above 0.5bar. Stock is 0.7 on rb20s. My question here is it safe to run an actuator boost feed from factory boost gauge nozzle and what are the pros/cons ? Thanks!

Can some one post more pictures of their chopped front plenums ? Thanks!

Hi! I've recently installed splitfires on my rb20det. What I've noticed that I still can see some electric discharge near the coils. Mainly near the black insulator and a coil mounting plate/bracket. And engine is still vibrating a bit. Its not like its stands still and quite, I can still feel some vibration through the steering wheel. I thought it should be all mint and quite after the splitfires. I don't think its right. I had it on my stock coils before and I bought splitfires to cure that as well as car was vibrating on idle sometimes, sometimes it could miss really hard on idle.. I didn't notice any misfire when on high load. What I did to resolve this problem is I bought a earth grounding kit and run 3 wires from battery minus. One to the head, one to the coil mounting plate/bracket and the last one to the strut tower near the battery. And I can still see the blue lights in the dark. WTF ? Here are the pics of the grounding wires and how I installed them: Pls advice! Thanks!

Redid the boost gauge piping and now it reads -.6/7 on idle.

Cable: http://www.plmsdevelopments.com/index.shtml Software: http://www.nissandatascan.com/ U get nissandatascan with cable and its great, u can do maprtrace on rb20s and lots of other stuff In those vids I used freeconzult. http://www.300zx-twinturbo.com/conzult/downloads.htm Because I only had this one installed on the notebook I used. Btw, u can wire consult in any rb20de or det, just need to have the hcr32 ecu and the consult connector. Get the ecu pin out and connect the wires

maybe I connected my gauge wrong ? When I connect consult it shows 15 degrees timing. Or i'm not getting something ? On those pics u can see a pink hose with a T-thingy. I get my boost reading from there.

Hi! Recently I started to notice my RB is constantly having that strange noise. When I swapped one in around march this year, it was ll mint. No strange noises what so ever. Then about a month ago, I decided to up the idle to 1k to run with AC, I did it to prevent engine stalling. Was to easy to stall when braking, no fun. When upped to 1k, no stall problems. Revs did drop, but didn't let the engine stall. I think that time it started to develop that strange noise from the top of the engine. Its not viscous fan, cause if u hold it and turn on the engine, the noise is still there. Engine doesn't eat oil, doesn't smoke, drives ok. I've installed splitfires recently and still I can see some blue electric discharges in the dark. Don't think it could affect something though. I did an oil change yesterday with silver Mobil 1 5w-50 fully synth., its quieter now, but its still there. VIDS: When 1st installed: With intercooler on LOL http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WI-k8aTVI2o Can't hear any abnormal noises ) Now see those shot today. Went to check the engine Turned the idle down to around 800 before shooting: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2jlZH4TxqUw http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ceLwB-sYOhQ http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DrzL-XFOK8E (Last vid(number 3) at around 0.36 u could hear a bang or bump while revs drop, wtf is that ? Detonation ? Or is it just fuel exploding in exhaust. 1st time I hear that and so loud. Only did it once). Now this one shot around 2 weeks ago with ~1k idle, and with one of the viscous fan blade hitting the radiator. So that flapping/tapping sound. But the buzz is still there. P.S. If I turn the idle down to 600 or so, there is little to no noise at all. Some one tell me whats going on ! My thoughts: CAS ? But no errors on ecu check. Thanks!

Hi! Recently I started to notice my RB is constantly having that strange noise. When I swapped one in around march this year, it was ll mint. No strange noises what so ever. Then about a month ago, I decided to up the idle to 1k to run with AC, I did it to prevent engine stalling. Was to easy to stall when braking, no fun. When upped to 1k, no stall problems. Revs did drop, but didn't let the engine stall. I think that time it started to develop that strange noise from the top of the engine. Its not viscous fan, cause if u hold it and turn on the engine, the noise is still there. Engine doesn't eat oil, doesn't smoke, drives ok. I've installed splitfires recently and still I can see some blue electric discharges in the dark. Don't think it could affect something though. I did an oil change yesterday with silver Mobil 1 5w-50 fully synth., its quieter now, but its still there. VIDS: When 1st installed: With intercooler on LOL http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WI-k8aTVI2o Can't hear any abnormal noises ) Now see those shot today. Went to check the engine Turned the idle down to around 800 before shooting: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2jlZH4TxqUw http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ceLwB-sYOhQ http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DrzL-XFOK8E (Last vid(number 3) at around 0.36 u could hear a bang or bump while revs drop, wtf is that ? Detonation ? Or is it just fuel exploding in exhaust. 1st time I hear that and so loud. Only did it once). Now this one shot around 2 weeks ago with ~1k idle, and with one of the viscous fan blade hitting the radiator. So that flapping/tapping sound. But the buzz is still there. P.S. If I turn the idle down to 600 or so, there is little to no noise at all. Some one tell me whats going on ! Thanks!

Stronzo) На нисме есть такая тема уже )) Почему там не отписывался ?))

A lot of people don't have those issues, they run stock boost up to redline no probs, even more. So something is fishy here Thanks for the reply by the way !

Why do u need custom 86mm pistons ? Also I got an RB20 in car right now. I also got and RB24S seating in the garage. I was thinking about putting a 25DE/DET head on and turboing it. Hmmm, but it wasn't really rev happy before. Like 6000rpm redline. Don't know if the head and electronic fuel/ignition management would help with higher redline http://www.answers.com/topic/nissan-rb-engine Thanks! ))

Hi! My setup: A31 with swapped RB20DET. FMIC bosch 040 3" turbo dump rest stock rb20de exhaust with no cat Boost gauge is connect to one of the vacuum hoses at the intake manifold. No boost controller. and a cheap pod filter My intake pipe is somewhat inconsistent(factory rubber hose was cut with the motor, had to do some ghetto shit) Engine Idles fine. It should mean that there are no leaks after AFM, or idle would be high or something. Boost gauge is connect to one of the vacuum hoses at the intake manifold. Now about the driving. Full boost by 3000rpm. was 0.7 when first installed, later when I was fighting with this boost dropping problem I've moved an actuator forward. Now it boosts 0.8 at 3000. But still drops to 0.5 by 6000rpm. Start to drop at 5k+. Same as before. I've tried to drop the exhaust to check if it would help. Full boost by 3k, would drop to 0.6 after 6k. Opposed to 0.5 with exhaust on. I tried to clean injectors, throttle body No change ))) Also the when turbo starts to spool its kinda very noisy. I watched some videos on youtube and with inside cabin cam, it doesn't make much noise inside. My one on the other hand is so loud, that I can hear it very well inside. Its actually loud. Now my ideas: 1)Leaking BOV ??? Can someone tell how would it affect my dropping boost or noisy intake? 2)Leaking gaskets ? Exhaust mani/turbo ? 3)Get actuator pressure readings from plenum, not from compressor housing ? 4)Leaking in intake/intercooler ? It really starts to get me, I can't feel the stock power And the noise. Any suggestions, comments, ideas are welcome! Thanks! P.S. Maybe it has something to do with the leaking or stuff. But driving like a granny, shifting before 2.2k rpm hardly gets me over 350km/tank (~53litres) Smooth accel, deceleration, few short trips.

Need some attention here Some help appreciated ! Like now, according to my boost gauge(its getting pressure readings from one of the hoses through t-thingy from intake manifold) I'm boosting 0.8bar at 3000 and after 5200/5300 it starts to go down, and by 6000rpm its 0.5 bar. (I moved the actuator forward, thus boosting 0.8, it was 0.7 in stock position). (RB20DET swap in A31) I got fmic. And the actuator hose gets reading from the compressor housing. Like in stock R32. If I connect the actuator hose somewhere else, like after intercooler, will I see a raise in boost ? Or maybe just get it more stable, get it to hold to redline ? Thanks !

What stainless steel to use in custom exhaust ? 304 or 202/1 will also do the job ? Whats the difference ? ))

He said 2 way diff. U guys should be careful next time they will think more and even make 2 way diff illegal. Don't do stupid shit on the roads

NS like nissansilvias ? Link pls ?

Haha this awesome feeling is what keeps u guys from going to rb25 or something LOL

AD4M, what are ur specs at the moment ? Stock engine internals, stock head gasket ? Sorry If I missed them before. Thnx!

So 15/16 will work ok with r32 gts-t 4 pots ? ))

S13 front pipe fits ? Confirm.