cooks44

I think the Ultimates are hard to judge. Personally have had 3 sets with no problems, 4th set is irritating me though - noise like nothing else. I think it's just their QC, they are mass-mass produced and they'd have variances. Meh. I get em under $90 so it's all good (too bad I can get DBA4000s for that price... they're not looking as good these days).

You have PM.

This one might go over 90km/h: I feel sorry for the poor RB. More wrongness here...

Yeah, I tried the silicone job on mine - fixed it for a little bit (might just be the placebo effect), but then back to it's old ways. Replaced them with some younger coils and it's happy again! I'd ask someone if you can use their coils as a test, just to be sure it's not something else.

I used to go with Ultimates, cheap price (sub $100 if you know where), and they stop well. But yeah, they definately rape your rotors, and this new set I've got squeal to high hell. Been back to get 'em checked three times - nothing wrong, must just be the crappy compound.

Pretty sure it's vacuum flurescent - old school, but good (and bright!) Don't think you can change the colour of the clock easily; blue film sounds like the best idea.

Plugs are BCPR6ES, copper version of the BKR6, otherwise they're te same plug. Prefer the coppers atm, stock ECU so it will always run rich guaranteeing the plugs will foul in 20-30,000kms. For the $20 vs $120 for iridiums/platinums I'm happy changing them every 3rd or 4th oil change - which is what I did here. I've just made up a plate to hold the ignitor module, getting in there to do the wiggle test at the moment. I reckon (or maybe I'm just hoping!) that I got sold a dodgy plug tho... fingers crossed!

Hey all, Just wondering if anyone has any ideas on my misfire problem. Not the common one where it happens at 4500rpm or so, this was the problem but was just the usual "time to replace plugs". Which I did last weekend. Now with brand new plugs it's missing at idle, occasionally through the rev range but not often. When all six are firing it's perfect to redline like it should be. Of course when you need the power pulling out in traffic is when it'll usually miss while driving *grumbles* Was worried I've pulled on the coil pack loom too tightly or something, so stripped it down, cleaned every connection, checked it all again. Problem still there... I figure if it was the loom it'd be missing more regularily, not just on the odd occasion. So I'm at a loss. Bad plug maybe? (might have been dropped at the shop). Dying coil pack? (although I'd expect that to rear its head under power, not idle) Dirty injector? It's getting hooked up to a consult unit to find out which cyl. is missing, but just wondering if anyone knows anything common. It's a S1 R33, got the transistor pack sitting in between the coil pack loom on top of the plastic finisher still. Thanks!

Ouch! I feel your pain, just got my first defect too... I have heard/seen the jacking up idea work - you'll only get 10-20mm lift or so, but if that's enough then you should be right!

Wasn't expecting to get one straight away but found them on my desk this morning - look very nice! Now to find the time to rip my car apart...

Damn... have to get in on the next one - PM sent.

If you just want a non-monitered GPS solution, you could look at Carminder... 'Tis on special at RFShop - http://www.rfshop.com.au/Products/Hardware.../2/Default.aspx

My understanding is the Iridiums are recommended as they're meant to last a nice long time (somewhere around 100,000 kms). The fact is, as we're not running the recommended fuel for our machines (cos' it's not available), they run rich and foul the plugs much quicker than they should. Considering you're gonna have to clean them (which you shouldn't do with Iridiums - you remove the coating) or replace them, it's much cheaper to get coppers at ~~$25 then Iridiums at ~~$125. I change mine about every 20k... dunno what the recommended interval is, but by the time I pull them out to look at them I've replaced them anyway. Oh, and copper conducts better then Iridium too. Now, the recommended plug is a 1.1mm. If you need to go to a 0.8mm, it's cos the spark isn't strong enough (tired coils, more boost, etc. not allowing a proper spark across 1.1mm). That said, going to a 0.8mm is an easy way to fix problems - I do this on my 33. Probably the quickest fix if your machine is coughing & spluttering at high revs under boost.

Ok, has someone just done a group buy and cleared their stock? Just put an order in with my local auto parts store for some DBA 4963SL/SR (DBA 4000 series wiper slotted for R33) - DBA wont have stock for six weeks! In fact no DBA front rotors are available at the moment for R33... Just thought I'd let you all know... I'm sure some people who deal with them (Skyline brakes) regularily will still have their own stock, but none if you need to order from DBA. RDA do, but I can get the DBA4000s cheaper (so I'll wait...)

What else do you do when you're playing with a screw and you can't get the rubber in?? Whack a bit of lube on it! Bit of Vase', you'll be fine. I believe the rubber is only there to prevent the screw from adjusting with engine vibration and such.

Tank a week on average, maybe a little more. (ie. 430kms) Already put 80,000 on it since I bought it though... time to get ready for a major service...

Cleaned all traces, can't duplicate it. Odd... I didn't think I had any upstream proxies (turned mine off on the w/end). Ah well, enough work - time for play!

No, haven't received it before... Was only reading about the Billion boards being affected by it this morning, didn't even blink as to why the SAU boards were down (stocktake was a b!tch.) Silly me didn't check the timestamp in the temp file before it was removed... I've reloaded the page & IE many a time anyway - hasn't reappeared. Who knows, peculiarity of Apache or one of the various proxies I'm running through I guess... (Edit: Ugh... bloody thing is still running, back soon.)

Fingers xed... I saw the boards down today at work, logged on later in the day no problems. Just logged on at home (11.28pm, 3/7) and I had the exploit blocked (I'm hoping from a locally cached version of the page, but I haven't logged on from here for a week?) Anyway, I know you'll still be monitoring it - just thought I'd let you know.

You can get the kit and repair it yourself, if you're feeling brave. But yeah, master clutch cyl has been a problem on ALL Nissans (well, every Nissan I've seen anyway).

Your avatar shows a R33, your sig shows "RB20DET" - so this might be of no use but... My R33 (pretty much stock) launches best at about 4200rpms. Any lower, it bogs. Any higher, wheelspin to hell. But 4200 - I go off like a gunshot. It's very tricky (especially with a turbo), but once you find the sweet spot you're laughing! Much easier if you get an aftermarket computer with launch control - you can preset the revs your engine holds at whilst you hold the throttle flat down, as soon as it detects any speed (cos you took your foot off the clutch) it goes bach to full...

Was looking through websites for an antenna when I came across the CarMinder at RFShop (www.rfshop.com.au). They're selling them for $742.50, however it comes down to $642 for a 25 buy (cheaper for 100...) Group buy anyone? (Not that I have the money at the mo... - need discs first!) Has anyone seen/owned one of these? They look pretty good - I almost built something similar using an old Nokia 5110... Considering there's no ongoing monitoring fee (except for a pre-paid SIM card), it looks well worth it and could create some nifty features. (SMS controlled door unlock?)

Have used cardboard (manilla folder type) for many gaskets... Only ever used it with proper gasket goo, like you're meant to with cardboard type gaskets anyway... But never had any trouble. Back O/T, this made a wonderful difference to my car - having access to an ultrasonic cleaner definately makes it easier!

Another B'day on the 13th of May... hmmm... Might come down if I can - my R33 is pretty much stock, but my housemate wants to find out what his Z31 is putting out (since he blew it up on a SAU GOR cruise some time ago & has only recently got it running again properly)

12V, 50mA "Grain of Wheat" globe - Dick Smith cat. P8140. Jaycar have similar, but they've attached wire to the ends which is not what you want. Autobarn/Repco/Burson/Super Cheap/etc. may have them, not sure though. After removing the climate control module, spin it around and you'll see two plastic holders that can be twisted clockwise with a screwdriver (¼ turn counter-clockwise.) These hold the globes - you'll notice that the flyleads from the globe a simply bent through some cutouts in the holder, both holding them in and providing a connection. Replicate that with the new globe(s), twist clockwise and repeat. Note 1: The original globes have blue plastic covers over them - these get stuck on and disintergrate when you try to pull them off. You should be able to get new ones with the new globes. Note 2: If you bend the globe's flyleads around the holder too tightly, the remaining loop doesn't make good contact with the climate control's PCB properly. Leave a little bit of slack (whilst still making sure it's secure) when you're bending it round. Note 3: There was a tutorial (or perhaps just a similar post) listed some time ago - they might have pics and/or other places to get globes if you want to find it and have a look.