202.3rwkw

with diagnosising oil leaks always start at the top. check the rocker cover, remove the timing case and check where the rocker cover meets the black timing belt backing plate. with it off you can check your cam seals, then start working down towards the crank seal. generally thou with crank seals there will be a fair share of oil sparayed all over the front of the engine. dont forget to check the vct unit on the intake cam but i couldnt see this leaking throu the timing case and over the p.s pump. other options include blocking off all your breathers etc and putting about 5-6psi of compressed air into the motor to carry out an oil leak test. good luck. oil leaks suck............... just ensure that it is engine oil that u are chasing not old, blackened p/s oil that has never been changed!

dont qutoe me but i dont believe many tuners/workshops have the ability to tune a fconv in australia. maybe call a hks distrubotor in your stateto see who may have the software and ability to do so......

which bit of the loom are you wriggling? there a few possiblilities there dude.

I wouldnt trust a anyone but chiptorque at nerang on the gold coast to touch my car anymore. to many bad experiences. give them a call on the number below. they will get the results u want and you'll get nothing but honest service. glenn

just by chance did you disconnect the battery? may have to do a thorough idle relearn? u say you split the manifold? is the iac reconnected at the firewall end of the manifold?

spend the money once and once only. go autronic. nothing but good reports and i have only ever seen great results with them. get yourself a quality tuner who knows his stuff and build up a good relationship. you ll get the power u want!

give us some details ect. what turbo has been fitted?

how is the spark plug?

you dont need one. it is just four 10mm nuts holding the fan on. you shouldn't even need to remove shroud. just undo those and rock the fan gently off its seat. be very careful when putting it back on that all nuts are done up in a "cross" pattern to achieve even seat pressure. have fun

hi mate, i would say there is a good chance that it is the viscous fan coupling or as u have said in the water pump assembly. your best diagnosis method there would be too either place a solid plastic handled screw driver on the water pump assembly (NO WHERE NEAR ANY ROTATING PART) and listen for bearing noises or anything out of the ordinary. failing that i would remove the fan assembly and reattached the retaining nuts and start it up and see if the noise is still present. hope that helps glenn

On a humourous side note - a very well educated on all matters vehicular teacher of mine, who used to be the head trainer for toyota australia has a great saying - "assumption is the mother of all f**k ups!" just a thought

took the words right out of my mouth dude!

sydneykid. sorry i miss read you above post. the timing was definately a positive in the throttle response stakes. but the reduce pipework, in my mind, was a major contributing factor.

we have also been able to pull out a little fuel and still been able to maintain a safe detention barriar. so yes the power came from timing and fuel changes. the plenum faciltated this. apoligises guys, i just did a comparison on datalogit. we have added just a bit of fuel across touched areas of map. sorry

what oil is in this thing dude. is the car stalling or is the management seeing no oil pressure and shutting it down?

sydneykid, i do apoligise that i dont have a "as driven" unretuned dyno ramp for it. i am the first to agree that an aftermarket plenum CAN be a waste of time. A GReddy manifold on an sr is an often quoted mismodifiction. i will also be the first to tell that that with no extra timing added to the maps that this would have been a grandeous waste of the time. the power we made with the plenum came from timing added. we were able to add the timing to less restrictive pipework, shorter intake and the cooler intake charge that is a product of this. simple as that. we have also been able to pull out a little fuel and still been able to maintain a safe detention barriar. so yes the power came from timing and fuel changes. the plenum faciltated this. the reason the plenum was added was to facilate the changed pipe style setup. i measured the removed pipework at 2.68metres. you can make your decisions re throttle response by adding that much to ur existing setup and getting back to me.......... cheers

hi munna, here is the back to back dyno charts for you. the biggest thing with the plenum is obviously the amount of intake length you can remove and and as a result the increased throttle response. we were able to also add a fair whack of igntion timing as well......... glenn

you are right wolverine. we put some time into it. the plazmaman plenum is one quality product. they are beautifully engineered and while they arent truly bolt on, they dont require to much in the way of re-engineering to make them fit. while the car doesnt "hold" 14psi thru to redline i still like to quote the highest boost figure shown on the run as the turbo has still accelerated to 14psi during the power run. just in case you wondering for no reason at all. only thing to do now is replace a dead clutch!!! some things are a labour of love! but not the cheese grater type love........................... g

hi guys, here is the dyno run as requested. i apologise it is only the 219.7rwkw run that we printed off, so i guess i dont have 220kw but close enough. I am not really expecting the turbo to hang on for that long but there is plenty of fuel there so we'll see. If this little exercise has only done one thing thou, it has definatley shown me the advantages of working with your selected tuner to achieve the results you desire. the chiptorque crew spent a fair share of their free time to get that done for me, and so i must recommend them to all u guys as a fantastic business that will get you the results you want. cheers glenn

yeah still the standard turbo, injectors and fuel pressure. car was properly strapped and in shoot_6f with correct dyno cell info entered

why would i be worried about things going pop?

hi guys, just got my car back after it got tuned. we got 220.3rwkw. i just wanna know if this sounds right? mods are as follows - fmic 13-14psi thru gfb boost controller plazamaman plenum ces dump pfc. walboro fuel pump thanks for your opinions - glenn

i would dare say that the light was turned off with a resistor or a simulator placed into the wiring at the steering wheel connection to the airbag harness. i would say that with the new batery connected the voltage/resistance seen at the control unit has slipped outside of preset parameters. how and why i dont know.......................

Thats an interesting problem you have there dude. you say you have a r33 gts s2 ecu? first off i would be getting my hands on nissans consult scan tool to pull some codes out of it and see what it is saying. considering the fact that it is now missing the return signal from the steering wheel mounted airbag unit will definately be the reason for the light. my first question would be why has the s/wheel been replaced with a non airbage unit and how did they turn the light off? i know this isnt alot of help but i'd be a bit worried about because with the light on remember the passenger side airbag will NOT deploy in an accident and to be honest with out the seering wheel there i doubt whether it would go off even with the light off. as for the ecu, yes it has fuel maps and there is a few resets u can do to ensure good idle such as a Keep Alive Memory relearn and an idle reset, glenn

hey mate, this is just a bit of guess without getting into it too far, but i once had a 33 where the intake pipe from the air filter to the turbo would get hot and suck closed. would only do it every 5/6th run after some good fulkl throttle action. hope this helps gc