waxer52

Its totally mangled the bolt. I might try a helicoil on it and if that does not work I will have to rethread bigger and use a custom bolt.

Got a garage to do some work on my rb25/30 and they have managed to destroy the thread in the end of the crank where the pulley is bolted on. What can be done to fix it while the engine is still in the car. Can I redrill and rethread the hole to the next size up from standard. Also I have an rd28 engine here and I'm wondering can I use that if I have to replace the crank. Thanks.

Ok so if it blowing through the rings and up into the cam cover and out through the oil filler hole, then why does my engine run lean with this leak?

I have tried rotating the engine and it has made no difference to the leak, it is still hissing the same. My compression test showed up ok. 10% difference was the most between each cylinder.

Power fc is still on the standard map. i am about to tune it so I have to make it some bit right. My mods are: rb30/25det with vvt holset hx35/40 turbo power fc and datalogit 550cc high flow injectors greddy copy plenum external wastegate avcr boost controller z32 maf It cant be in the tune as it still has the standard map and things only went lean after the plenum install. I cant find a leak where it seals against the head but I have the inlet cam cover off and I can hear strong hissing when pressuring the plenum.

I have a lc-1 wideband and datalogit installed. Will also remove the cams later and see what happens.

ok so if I remove the two cams and leave the plugs in to seal the cylinders, the only place it can leak is at the plenum (if that is where the leak is).

Yes the cams are still in the engine, but I dont understand why it wont hold any pressure in the inlet manifold. The air seems to go in through the manifold and out through the oil filler cap. The reason I am doing this, is that I am leaking air some where and im running lean. I need to find this problem and fix it once and for all.

Well after trying to sort out all my vacume leaks I think I may have found a bad problem. While pressuring the inlet manifold I could hear a leak but it sounded like it was in the head. So I removed the oil filler cap and put it under pressure again only to hear a louder hiss and if you got close enough you could feel the air leaking out. Next job is to do a leak down test. Would anyone have an idea as to whats gone, or has this happened to anyone before. Thanks for looking.

Is it possible to test the litters by removing just the cam covers.

As the title says "Can a sticky hydraulic lifter casue an intermtient misfire?".

I have tested it but i have not changed it with another one. I will try that first to see if it works.

Afm has been cleaned, new plugs tried with different gaps. Pfc with datalogit and wideband and no boost yet. Next step I think is to get a z32 and see what happens.

Im running msd coils in wasted spark mode. Cas has been replaced. Plugs at 0.8. Misfire happens from startup most of the way up the rev range have not taken the revs over 4000rpm as mototr has only been built and not mapped yet.

Fixed it, replaced my pcv system and no more smoke. The only other problem is the misfire I cannot find. Its not consistent it just comes and goes every couple of seconds. Any help with this problem appreciated.

Thanks I read about what happened when you had your pcv bolcked off.

Smokey, Misfire (valve stem seals maybe) I have a rebuilt rb30 bottom end with new rings and bearings. New standard head gasket and an rb25det head. I have got a misfire from idle and it struggles as you accelerate gently (wideband reads lean as expected due to misfire). My crankcase breather is just venting to air at the moment with very little smoke at idle, but if I kink this pipe I get excessive smoke from the exhaust on deceleration. It still smokes a bit a idle from the exhaust. The smoke is more white than anything, but has a slight smell of oil. I have done the usual search and come to the conclusion its the valve stem seals. Am I right? Can bad valve stem seals cause a misfire? P.s. I have wasted spark running perfectly, fuel pressure and injectors are ok, afm is ok.

I have now swapped no.2 injector with no.3 injector. When i have the car running i can remove and injector plug and you can hear the engine misfire. I have done this for each individual injector and they all seem to be firing as the misfire gets worse when removed. The same happens with removing spark plug leads. Misfire get worse when removed individually. Dont know what to do now, I have checked for vacume leaks and cannot find any, but the only way cyclinder 2 could be lean is if it was drawing extra air somewhere. Think I might have to get a garage man to look at it.

I had issues with the standard coil so I went to wasted spark, maybe it was a bad choice but as for the moment I have a good strong spark at all plugs. If you think its cylinder 2 that is lean there could only be one cause and that is not enough fuel, what is the best way to test for this?

I have narrowed down my problem, (at last0, it now idles fine with afm voltage at 1.2v, tpr voltage at 4.6v. My wideband sensor is giving a lean reading due to a missfire on one of the cyclinders (no.2 I think), i removed all the spark plugs and no.2 looks fairly light while the rest of the plugs are fairly black. Could it be lean on one cyclinder or rich on five? When I have the car running and I slowly rev the engine up to about 3000rpm you can hear the miss very distinctly. I have wasted spark with msd coils and i have spark at all cyclinders I have fuel at all cyclinders Iac valve clean as a whistle (solved my bad idle) Fuel pressure is good Anyone know what my next step is to solve this. Forgot to say that when I try to start it when warm I have to fully depress the throttle to get it to start.

It will fit no problem. I have a hx40/35 hybrid on th standard manifold with a 20 mm spacer.

If the aac valve is stuck open would this be the cause of my lean afr. It would be dramwing extra air and so lean out the afr. Not sure what else it could be. Starting to get annoyed with it now.

Ok im trying to sort this out but not great. the idle is fine under cold start and my throttle sensor voltage has been adjusted to 0.45v. When the car is just about warm 78deg water temp you can give the throttle a blip and when it returns to idle it starts to hunt. Its like a restriction on the inlet, i think it may be the aac valve. If i try to set the idle on the aac valve by turning the screw it has no effect on idle so i think it may be f*****. I can get the afr to come down at idle be rescaling the afm voltage, but im not sure if this is the best way. Any help on this greatly appreciated.

Maybe a silly question but you refer to the k value, whats this? Thanks cef11e thats the best explanation i have had .

Cef11e i followed your install closely and have roughly the same setup. 550cc injectors, silencer ring (dont know if its there or missing), the standard airflow meter is mounted about the same distance away as standard at about 30deg angle. It seems as though when hot it will idle fine until you blip the throttle then it becomes erratic. I have searched for vac leaks and have found some and repaired them. My exhaust leak is past where i have the wideband sensor mounted so it cannot be that. It just gives a constant 15.9 afr in the off boost cells, ratios start to richen up as it comes on boost. I think i'll try the 90deg bend on the afm next.