MKDR33

lol.. yeh i installed it correctly, its just that ive had 3 faulty manifolds so far.. my last 3 manifolds were aftermarket ones and they kept on cracking near the flange where the turbo sits.. people suggested it was faulty engine mounts that caused it, so i had to weld some supporting frames around there to hold it properly.. anyway, this is why i dont think it would be that particular gasket, as its pretty new, although ill check it out tommorow along with the turbo to manifold gasket.. you think it might be something to do with my BOV venting air?

im hoping to god it isnt that, as i have replaced it like 3 times already, and they arent cheap(around $120).. im gonna have to take off all the piping tommorow and have a look.. if the turbo to manifold gasket is leaking would it make a similar noise?

standard boost for the 2530 is 1 bar i think.. ive got one in my R33 and on the lowest boost setting it runs at 1 bar.. i was told that they can run up to 25psi+, depending on ur engine and setup..

just the other day i noticed a loud hissing sound on my R33 coming from the turbo area.. i thought it might have been a leak on the turbo to dump pipe gasket, so i took the dump pipe off and applied some gasket maker on the gasket.. i put it back together and took it for another spin and im still getting the same noise.. it cant be a leak in the intake piping as the car wouldnt run properly.. the noise comes on as soon as i hit boost and rev it over 3500rpm, it sounds heaps louder than it should, almost as if there is an exhaust leak.. the car pulls good, but im just curious as to what this noise might be? any help would be appreciaited? turbo is HKS 2530kai

no probs. good to hear everything is running smoothly..

1995 R33 GTS-t HKS GT2530kai turbo 3" Turbo Back Exhaust (Split dump pipe) Custom Exhaust Manifold (TuneAgent) Hybrid FMIC Blitz POD Apexi SAFC II SARD Fuel Regulator BP ULTIMATE 98ron Dyno @ 1.1bar = 232rwkw Coming Soon... Fuel Pump Injectors PFC

check for intake pipe leaks? check o2 sensor? and check your AFM? also your AAC might need cleaning? ive had similar problems after doing repairs on my car and forgot to plug in my AFM, or didnt tighten a silicon hose properly, resulting in the car reving and idling poorly..

spotted a midnight purple R33 with number plates SPOOFN in QBN on Ross Road, gave a wave got one back.. does the guy come on here?

thanx for ur reply raz0r.. i got my ECU out already and have located the wire i need to cut, i just want to install a switch on it so I can enable the speed limiter and disable it whenever i want.. reason for this is because i heard it intereferes with the HICAS diagnostics..

im trying to install a switch to be able to select between speed cut and no speed cut on an R33.. not too familiar with the electronics side of things, just wondering how hard is it to install a simple on/off switch on a cut wire?

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...showtopic=42819 hope that helps you.. thats a thread on removing the coil packs, it will get you 95% of the way there.. once you remove the coil packs you will need a special tool to fit into head to unbolt the spark plugs.. i was lucky to keep my old honda civic tool as it fits into the holes perfectly and is the same size..

usually black smoke means the AFR mixture is a little too rich..

so is this meet for members only? or can civilians come aswell?

he must have a bigger fuel pump to be getting 250rwkw+ out of it.. the stock fuel pump shouldnt be pushed for more then 240rwkw.. im getting 232rwkw with GT2530, SAFCII, 3" split turbo back, custom manifold, POD @ 16psi and my stock fuel pump was starting to max out..

i had this same problem with the first stud.. depending on how far in they have snapped, you might have to get them drilled out.. also make sure if decide to drill them out that you are REALLY careful when u get it done, i left this job to a bodgy mechanic and he drilled through the block into the head.. i realised this cause oil started leaking from there recently.. i had to get a thread proffesional to make a bigger hole to fit a bigger stud and seal the whole..

ive got the same problem on my R33.. at low revs when i depress the clutch it makes the same noise then disapears after take off..

dont know what manifold your thinking of taking off to change the spark plugs dude, but there is deffinately no gaskets that need to come off.. you need to take the plastic cover in the middle of ur engine (between the tappet covers) off, then unplug and take out the coil packs..

thx 4 the reply danielson.. ill have to take it to get checked out..

ive got an R33 S1.. just the other day i noticed a thumping sound and slight vibration when i turn my steering wheel.. not sure what it might be, its not really affecting the driving as of yet, but i fear it might get worse.. anyone know what this might be?

great DIY gonna give it a whirl..

spotted lime green 33 cruising out of fyshwick and further up the road white 33 parked near taxi rank on newcastle st..

ive got this same problem, and ive got an SAFC II tuned and it still does this..

i cant run more then 16psi neither, i get a boost cut.. anything under 16psi should be ok(with the stock or similar size turbo)..

check ur coil packs, its a common problem.. this might help ---> http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...howtopic=119403

i got a pair of 300z stockies that i use for rubber burning days.. i got them from inline when my mate farad used to work there, got them for $50 each with rubber.. they got a fair few lieing around out the back..