MKDR33

Does anyone on here know of a D.I.Y. for the drivers side airbag removal on an S1 R33 ?? Im thinking of changing the steering wheel, and i heard its a decent weight reduction of around 40-50kg ? Anyones help would be greatly appreciated.. Thanks

im goin 4 a lap tonite..

HKS 2530kai

the only reason id get an aftermarket BOV is for the intake piping to be able to withstand more pressure(boost).. so if your getting a bigger turbo and wanting to run more boost, its a good idea to get an aftermarket BOV which can be adjusted to hold more pressure.. ive heard that stock BOV cant hold higher boost levels with bigger turbos, the pressure pad opens up and releases air at full throttle..

id recommend the SAFC II if you dont have enough cash to get a standalone ecu.. here is my last dyno printout when i had my SAFC2 tuned.. rb25det R33 HKS 2530kai turbo 3" Exhaust turbo back (custom twin pipe dump) Custom exhaust manifold Electronic boost controller FMIC SAFC II Blitz pod BOV

just picked up my baby from the workshop.. thread doctor done a nice job.. shes sealed up n ready to roll tonite..

hey Mr Italy, yeh that was me.. pickin it up tommorow.. were u at Jerrys? or u work there?

sup MIVEC, not sure at this point if ill be participating in tonites cruise, as my car is still in the workshop.. some twit that owned the car before me, tried to drill out a stud from the first stud hole on the exhaust manifold to the head. Now i started getting oil leaks from there, as he drilled right into the head.. hopefully ill get it fixed by tonite..

I used to get a similar problem, when i boosted my car to 12psi or more, got a flat spot between 4500rpm and 5500rpm.. Updated coil pack issue ---> http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...howtopic=119403

might go check it out, what time do ppl start rocking up there?

that bar looks like its actually sitting on the concrete..

no worries.. hopefully i get my car back on the road by tonight, still in the shop getting fixed.. anyone cruising tonight? if so, where does everyone go in canb. besides braddon, civic n manuka..?

yeh i remember u, i was wit my gf, this was last fri nite? Neat 32 u got there..

hey, yeh im from qbn.. not many places to go in either qbn or canb. fri nites in braddon, but thats getting old.. where u from p1r4t8r?

Does the engine violently cut out then go again? if so, it sounds like a fuel cut. I heard this is because ur afm detects too much air being sucked in and authorizes the ecu to cut the fuel. i get this with anything over 16psi.. also, i have 2 boost controllers, an electronic one and a turbosmart manual valve. when i use the turbosmart one, it cuts out at around 13-14psi, when i use the electronic one it cuts out at around 16psi. not sure why this is.. To fix the fuel cut problem either get another ecu (Power FC) or Fuel Cut Defencer.. Ive also heard, replacing the stock afm with a z32 helps aswell..

spotted my car mentioned on this thread, so i thought id say hi..

Problem: My S1.5 R33 used to missfire from around 4500rpm til about 5500rpm @ 12psi+ (especially in the cold). I tried everything, from installing an SAFC II piggyback to tune the AFR to regapping my spark plugs etc. Solution: The stock coil packs have a hairline split on the side of them, which at high boost levels, the spark tends to not follow through to the spark plug, but jumps out of the coil pack. After sealing up all my coil packs, my car runs much smoother now, I can boost it to 16psi and I dont get any missfiring. D.I.Y. Fix: For a quick and cheap fix for this problem.. (the following was done with spark plugs regapped to 0.8) R33 GTS-t Fix (Im guessing that the same problem occurs on the R32 & 34): 1. Take off the plastic cover in the middle of the engine (between the tapper covers) which covers your coil packs 2. Unplug and unscrew each coil pack (all six) and take them out 3. Holding the coil packs vertically, inspect the sides and locate the hairline split (as shown below) 4. Once you locate the split, using GOOD electrical tape (cheap stuff WONT work), tape over the split a couple of times, making sure the tape sits flat over the split and seals it firmly (as shown below) 5. Once you have taped up all 6 coil packs, screw them back in place and reconnect the plugs 6. Place your plastic cover back over the coil packs (I have left mine off for better cooling of the coil packs) Done! MORE HELP: For more info on taking out the coil packs ---> http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...showtopic=42819 Another alternative is buying Splitfires, but this is around $700+ dearer to do.. PS. Make sure you use GOOD electrical tape, as cheap stuff tends to get hard and peel off from the heat. EDIT: Or as QRI05E recommended - for a more reliable seal, use 'Shelleys Industrial Silicon Sealer 401' for only $11 @ Bunnings.

sounds like a coil pack problem.. Check --> http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...howtopic=119403

check the fan, make sure its spinning freely, i had this problem once, when i remounted my FMIC piping and I left a cable tie in its path..

try adding some car wax/polish on them a few times, i did this with mine and i noticed them go really clear.. make sure you wash them on the outside before adding the polish.. this will shine them up(give them a clear look), but wont affect the discolouration from the inside..

I got an R33 rb25det with 95000kms, and just the other day I noticed a puddle of oil on the left side of the oil sump on the ground. I checked the oil return line from the turbo it seems fine, the oil looks like its coming from the left side of the sump. Has anyone had any problems like this before? If so, what can I do to fix the problem?