GTR1993

From what i remember there is a coating on the throttle bodies so they seal correctly, cleaner removes it.

It wont do anything just might turn the light on saying u have low fluid, or alternatively never turn the light on. But fix it

Hey i was just checking out the pics of the calipers, are they the racing style of pistons that don't run dust boots, like the AP calipers etc. Doesn't that mean you arnt really supposed to just push the pistons back to change pads but supposed to pop them out clean them then reassemble? I know a guy with APs on his street monaro and they have to do that so they don't stuff the seals.

Are u fitting the center to a long nose style R200 housing?

With out having personal experience it seems that the Greddy extension isnt the be all and end all. Im pulling out my motor to fix the oil control issued and are opting for the performance metal craft one, that sydneykid has recommended in many threads.

Yep! engine dyno gets 20 min break in then full throttle! Just bed the rings and its done. They usually have a preset run in sequence on the engine dyno.

Try it and see if it overboosts?

Oh i knew why people reduce compression ratio, but these days with good fuel and good tuning there should really be no need I agree that 80 is really too low, what did yours come up as?

generally don't look at the actual number, because it can vary between testers and motors, look at variation between cylinders, closer to each other the better, around 15% is probably still ok, but not much more. I think the manual says its around 160 for a stock 26 and gives a tolerance. For example my RB26 is rebuilt and it seems its used lower comp pistons (i dont know why you want this but i didnt build the motor bought like this) but was 120-125 across all cylinders. Also blowing a dip stick out isnt a good sign and PCV isnt working at full throttle only light cruise...

Rory Thompson Services Pty Ltd Unit 2- 84 Rundle Rd Salisbury South 5106 0414 948 028

100% can engineer it, Rory thompson can do it, just has a look at it then signes it off.

298 are u for real?? Hicas lock bar engineering is 250 from most automotive engineers on the list at regency. Now im sad that my gtr is defected, going to cost more then i thought to goto regency Also pods that are secure are fine and FMIC are fine but you cant cut bumper reinforcement.

short answer, they check everything. If the r33 is like the 32 toy front upper suspension arm bushes will be stuffed, and maby the caster ros bushes, so get them checked/fixed if needed. Any oil leaks etc.

I haven't used the MSD unit personally but i have the autronic cdi with autronic computer, works very well, so i would recommend it. Only thing is it seems a little on the expensive side.

yea thats what i want to do, im ordering a whole lot of stuff from the US for my 26 and a mates sr20, but there isnt a listing so i might just measure them up when i have the motor out.

I think the problem lies with the R33 transfer case system?

Trying to order some ARP main studs for a RB26, but there is no listing. What are the size of the studs needed to i can order the ones i need Cheers

In my R32 the climate control works fine, then once i had it set to hot, no matter what i changed on the control screen stayed hot, then few hours later it was working again. Im thinking either the motor that controls the flow to the heater core was sticking or the cabin temp sensor may be faulty, any ideas?

I have hered that when they machine for the oil squierters on the venolia pistons that it weakens the skirt and what you had happen can happen.

Yea, this is what i think might be saving you from running a thermostat, technically you might gain something from still running one, but may not be worth it. If you were flat out in cold weather might pay to use one but not street driving.

Ronin, with out me going and checking does the gtr run a coolant to oil "cooler" that also helps warm the oil when cold from factory?

TDS01 is a EARLS thermostat. 2630GTS goto VPW or any speed shop, you want a sadwich plate, goes between filter and block and lines for the cooler come from there. like this http://www.vpw.com.au/productgroup.asp?Cat...p;PrdGrpID=2755

Hey those billet adapters are just earls....the one for the oil filter to go on is 75 bucks from VPW, you can get them in cast or billet, i have both and they both are fine.

I would go the earls blocks around 120 for both i think maby bit more then hit up http://cgi.ebay.com.au/Engine-oil-cooler_W...1QQcmdZViewItem that is identical to the B and M coolers for around 130, but hey use a SAE thread not NPT but no biggie. Then use some fittings and rubber lines. Earls thermostat if you heart so desires.

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