GTR1993

No problem, in fact i have seen kits for sale on the internet for this very purpose. I think it would work well. I wouldnt go where the air flow meters are, i would go just after the turbos. Turbos them selves wouldn't be 100% sealed around the shaft.

hang on hang on, what have you exactly bent? MS paint diagram would help.

If it is held in with the circlip, the same as a CV is held on generally you pry it a little then push it back in and try again just to make sure the circlip doesnt get jammed in there and makes it near impossible to remove. Sometimes if you just try hammer a CV off and the circlip gets jammed and bent a little they have to cut the cv off the shaft.

The mains will need a hone because of the arp main bolts, generally these will clamp up a bit tighter. The car is a 1994 so i didn't put crank collar in as i "think" the crank should be like the R33 variant, so i should be ok, if not that is definite mod. Thanks for input, so you think the new balancer is not needed?

I have a R32 GTR that i bought with a rebuilt engine, unknown spec high flowed turbos etc. As always the oil modifications were not done to the motor. Im going to pull the motor and do these mods along with (possibly) a few other modifications. A few friends of mine race some 1600s out at malalla and i want to give it a bit of a go my self. Motor as it stands now: forged pistons Tomei cams Tomei cam gears some type of porting job according to receipt std rods N1 oil and water pumps Tomei metal head gasket Proposed rebuild option: enlarge oil drains at back of head add extra oil drain at back of head to sump fit oil restrictor ARP studs mains and head Some forged rods new bearings new head gasket (or gasket set) The reason for studs is that they are pretty cheap and if later on i want to run some more power through it they are there, also the rods, buying some arp bolts is what like 250, for 650 i can get some forged rods with arp bolts in them, cheap upgrade. Parts such as pistons will be reused with the block getting a line hone (because of arp mains) and bores re hones, the pistons in it seem to have dropped static compression of the motor so i will CC the head and the dish of the pistons and work out a suitable head gasket or machining to get compression back up to standard. I have been doing alot of reading on this forum over the past few months along with fresh alloy and the more i read the more N1 oil pump failures i seen to find. Is the pump failure really this common? Is it related to harmonics? If it would help i was thinking of also fitting a Ross tuffbond balancer. Is it worth the 1000 to upgrade to a JUN pump, even with this i have read about some failures. I don't want the cost to blow out substantially considering my friend running under 1:20s at malalla with stock internal sr20! The next question i have is about the sump, SK seems to say that the performance metal craft sump for the 4wd 26s is very good, and costs around $1400, i want to run on R compound tyres so is this a wise investment? Power is around 290 rwkw at 16 psi as it stands now. Thanks for any help

If its a cheap enough option to full comp not bad, full comp from shannons was 1100 and just cars wanted 2500 haha

When i enquired fire and theft cover only covered about $3000, then they make you get full comp. I tried this with shannons and just car insurance. What company are you with that offers 10K not bad?

Dont recon, i have used bosch Z32 and tuned up just fine, i would even say the nissan ones were made by bosch, they are identical, even knock sensors are bosch.

115 will mean lobe centre, i have degreed my RB26 cams in before my self and made massive gains My understanding: If your lobe centres want to be at 115 deg then: A lobe center of 115 on the inlet cam means that maximum valve opening will be at 115º ATDC and 115 on the exhaust will mean that maximum valve lift will be at 115º BTDC

Noltec subframe bushes are good, i would imagine that labour would be a bit, would "guess" at least 400ish I done it my self and now i can drop the subframe pretty damn quick and getting the old bushes out isnt that bad after you done it a few times.

Item:Apexi AVCR Age:Few years?? (came in GTR i bought) Condition:Good condition Price:400 ono To Fit:any turbo car Location:Adelaide Contact: 0403431194, [email protected] Comments: Apexi AVCR in good working order, was in my GTR running 16 psi, selling as changing setup of the car completely. Can post at buyer expense, come with box, unit with harness, pressure sensor, and solenoid (everything needed to hook it up minus some vacuum hose etc) Can pick up if in Adelaide no problems Cheers, Alex

Is the noise dependant on revs? Louder when hot or cold etc?

over 430 kw they really start to run out of puff, if you want 450 t04z may be a wiser move.

That turbo can flow over 400 rwkw, but for your set up too many variables to say exactly.

nah tomei cam gears with tomei cams, i was thinking maby the block has been decked or different size gasket moving the timing around a bit? at the first dyno to last the cams were pretty much opposite to where they needed to be, so who ever built motor didnt have much idea, or didnt dial them in.

not quite but probably in the best position if you want to make the least power possible!! ill show you a graph.

I know the RB is very sensitive to cam timing compared to say a SR20. My rb26 at 12 psi made 180 kw with a crappy power curve, I dialed in the cams with a dial indicator and then adjusted slightly on the dyno and with only 16 psi the car went 290 rwkw.

MAP SENSOR: From pics on the net I guess the following [wires on sender:wires on AVCR] Red:Yellow White:Blue Black:Brown SOLENOID: pink red the orange wire goes no where on my harness it just is like 10 cm long the red wire splits off into 2 wires

I use southern hitech dyno i thought i seen peter hall at outlaw speed shop, guess i was right if he has left willall

i think BD4s is only one in aust that tune the HKS f con, you might be out of luck in this one.

The problem generally itsnt say the block is only 100, its the machining that adds up. Once you bore and hone each cylinder (cheap) line hone with torque plate, balance everything up can cost over 1000 for your bottom end. Spin a bearing and junk the block, then you gotta get another block, machine it, regrind crank etc. Its not a massive cost but more then 100 dollar block.

Just thought about this, say you have X amount of air coming into the car. The AFM is the standard position infront of each turbo will see 1/2X each. The computer then adds these together to see X. Now if you were to put one AFM in the cooler pipe (as there is only one pipe) it will see X amount of air. So running the 2 wires to the single afm would see double the air flow. I recon thats correct?

444cc @350 rwkw, i dont think so. My GTR makes 288 and injectors are at 98-99%. Or if this guy running 70 psi base pressure or something?

Its really not that difficult. I helped/watched my friend built his holden 355 stroker motor. You need some nice outside mics, dial bore indicator, feeler gauges. He got the machinist to put the pistons on the rods as he has a piston press and that makes it basic as. All motors are not really more difficult then the other especially not including doing the head(s). Check clearances between mains, big end, small ends, piston to bore, file fit ring gaps, check crank end float and i suppose you call it end float of the rod big ends(?) On his motor the rods had to be machined a little to increase this clearance. Then check oil pump etc, recommend using bolt stretch gauge not just torque is you are using studs for mains etc. My next motor i will defiantly build with the help of him. Also the main thing is be clean clean clean. Wash the bores down, then get perfectly white rags and wipe them down, if they dont come out white clean them again, and repeat. Small metal particles get stuck in the bore and can decrease motor life. Happy building

Well i got random stopped 2 weeks ago in my 32 gtr, was actually doing nothing wrong. He said he heared my exhaust over jimmy barnes so he had to stop me and inspect my car. Straight to regency for me.