GTR1993

dont worry about ambient temp, have a look what inlet temp is on the graph, if all the factors are displayed

hey is that around the edge on the underside? If so i can GARENTEE you that where the letal frame meets the glass on the outside of the car, the seal in there is leaking. I had this EXACT problem and i was trying to figure out how it was leaking, it goes between the glass and metal runs into the underside out of the rust spots between the metal and the rubber seal, to fix it need to run some silicone at the join on the outside (where glass and metal join)

99% i think 32 ****corrected below

that curve is almost identical to my gtr with tomei 260s and unknown steel wheeled turbos. Its with in 10 kw everywhere.

i pulled the rocker again and on the end of the cam is A2691N i looked on here and someone was selling the poncams with those numbers, i assume type A 260 deg duration and 9.15mm lift

Do you know if they have tomei written on them? i know the sr ones do but the ones in my motor dont seem to have anything written on them

it is part of the cam but there are the splines or what ever on the outside, half moon is just there so it means you get the CAS in the correct spot everytime. My tuner installed 2nd hand HKS cams into a gtr the other week and the cam had that moon snapped off, he said it was a bitch because its trial and error to get it in the correct one.

No it doesnt need to be replaced, but its an actual bitch to get it lined up. You have to put the cas in the crank it with timing light see where you are at, then pull it out and move it to get it closer as you dont know what splines it should be in. But once that is set up its the same as if it had the moon.

the shock is suposed to slide in and out of the dust boot. Im going to raise mine up and cable tie or glue the boots on and see if the problem is fixed.

Yea mine are cut more then in half, as in I cut more off so the bump stops are tiny (cut in accordance to SK picture). Im not sure if mine need to be longer, i almost think needs to be shorter! As the 3 of them were pushed all the way to the spring platforms. I was thinking about gluing the boots to the stops? my car is more like 320mm i think so quite a bit lower.

Had my car on the hoist at home today as i dialed in my tomei cams when i was under the car putting radiator back in i was checking stuff out under the car and i noticed that 3 of the 4 dust boost have come off the bump stops. On closer inspection i noticed that there are markings on the bump stops it seems the shocks are coming in contact with them. once this happened it forced the dust boot all the way onto the shock jamming it. I have the shocks on the standard height setting with king spings (not sure if they are low or super low or what not as they came with the car) Do you think i need to raise the car 1 notch or 2 notches on the circlips? Cheers

Your choice i suppose, but at the end of the day bilstein is bolt in over the counter too...

speed flow teflon lines rated max pressure of 1500 psi, lucky to see 100 in oil pressure applications on your motor. I have made 100s of thise conections, best way is with the 1mm cutting disc as stated above with the line wrapped with masking tape. Now i even use a drop saw and works well. You must use steel spanners to assemble the fittings, the alloy ones are only for taking the fittings on and off once there in service.

All the lines except the brakes you can use compression fittings, best bet be a V8 speed shop. You can order from warehouse but they cry about it because you arnt going to a shop, then if shops find out they cry to wholesaler. VPW are decent priced for speed flow. Make sure you dont get ripped at a speed shop, in Adelaide if they dont know you it will cost you fair bit more then if they do, or you know prices from VPW etc before you go in.

I think people are loosing the point. More cubes will always win in the power game, end of story. SR20 is a good motor with good support and is in my opinion underrated by the purists because its alloy blocked and has rockers. RB has its fair share of problems as in oil control and oil pump failures. In my opinion if you can fit a 4 cylinder use the sr, if you can fit the rb use that. (or the JZ series but thats another argument ) But why on earth would you go backwards when go fowards, dont put a 2L 4 banger in a skyline when you can have a 3L 6. If iw as to build a motor again for outright power, ill say now it wouldnt be RB or SR, just go for the biggest cubed motor you can fit, add hair dryers and be done with it. Also alot of the problems people have with rocker arms is not enough valve spring force, as soon as you let the rocker float and it slaps on the cam it WILL snap no question, keep it in contact and it will be fine. I own both a high strung SR20 and a mildly modded 26 and the rb makes power easily, just depends what suits YOUR application.

Every SR20 has rockers, GTiR use solid lifters rather then hydrlic (spelling). I dont see the big drama with rockers unless you want to rev over 9000. They have benifites like you can fit massive cams with no modification to head etc.

Just need a bit of help, the GTR i bought a while ago was lacking power. I slapped it on the dyno swung the cams quickly and got some much better results but midrange is still lacking. Im going to pull the rockers and dial in the cams to 110 and 115 lobe centres like tomei specify to start at but i would like to know what markings are on tomei cams so i know what ones i have? Im pretty sure they are tomei from the recipts i have. Cheers

You actually think nissan make their own oil, im almost certain that nissan branded oil is supplied by castrol.

drilling them is pretty much useless, with the added advantage that they will crack easier, your choice. The RDA rotors are the ones where they drill but only in the surface, so they cant crack.

it is emissions but it is some what to do with your fuel system. Its a carbon canister, it connects to a breather on your fuel tank for vapours that come out of your tank.

u will need another v band flange and clamp, that turbo you can not remove that v band so you will have to have a custom dump made with appropriate fittings. here is a link for them from USA http://www.atpturbo.com/Merchant2/merchant...tegory_Code=CLA

Yes that is the inner with the yellow stuff. Im not sure what it is but goto a cv place they will know exactly. I got the stuff when i bought my geniune cv boot.

What part the inner out outer?

lets be honest. the stock one was fine to 100,000 so why not just stick with it

Nah i dont mean the wheel, i mean at what crank angle should the inlet/exhaust be opening the valve 20 thou, or how ever they want to rate it as. On some wade cam specs i got here it says when they are open 50 thou so you can get a decent starting point, then go from there.