GTR1993

BOOSTD very interested in your finding. When will you be expecting to dyno?

Gary, I have finally got enough money to get the rest of the stuff i need. If i was to order bushes/stabilizer bars now when could i expect them to be delivered with all the christmas stuff going on? Thanks

i have had the leak fixed in my R32 gtr and honestly for "old tech" its bloody good, easily comparable to newer cars so i would not even bother upgrading it all.

shannons 21 yo rating 1 1994 R32 GTR 20K agreed value $1200 a year

firslty what is the overall power goal and the end, from there we will know what is needed.

bringing this topic back up, my gtr is at the air con place now, the rubber tube coming out the compressor had a few holes in it and is being remade, seems to be no other leaks so far, ill keep you updated on costs.

yes the atessa gear is the same, i know the pumps etc are IDENTICAL

what is the TX valve? is that one of the fill points as this had some moisture under it and i think that could be what is leaking in mine?

Gas and dye is generic obviostly, if seals are gone they are pretty standard. There is a thing called reciver dryer, its like a filter for the gas, dont replace this straight away because if it leaks again, you will have to replace it again, as it should be replaced when ever gas has been lost (there for air and moisture is inside the system) so regas should be around 100, reciver dryer is about 80 (there are different styles but in 99% sure you dont have to use genuine nissan) then rebuilding compressor i dont know i havent come to that yet, but i would imagine you should come well under $1000.

depends what is wrong, im going throug this atm in my 32 gtr. if gas is gone then there is obviostly a leak, could be any o ring from very easy to fix, to more difficult to o rings in the compressor. Even the evaporator inside the cabin could be leaking. Best thing to do is get it gasses up and check that it works, make sure they put in heaps of die. This is so you know everything is in working order or not, and if it leaks the dye will shop up where it is. If it leaks again then they will use a UV light to find the leak, then you can go from there.

cruising it will probably not even be making positive pressure, it will be fine. the way to 'disable' it would be to wire open the wastegate.

hey dude first off as it has been mentioned is you hand brake off? If its not then it will be near impossible to take the disc off. Second there is no screws holding the discs on, the two holes u have circled are for YOU to thread 2 bolts into, do them up and the disc will pop off.

does the lid have any noticable dents like in the top, reason i say it is mine the bottom looks fine as does the top, but the plastic reinforcment in the middle is all smashed. If yours is in good condition i will take it off u.

its not copper? that is base material of some main bearings if im not mistaken.

he is gone, his shed has been cleared out and i havent heared anything more about him, few works shops havent either. I have his other phone number still rings but hardley ever answers.

Oh i thought rb20 was top feed thats why 26 injectors are an upgrade? Im not sure i dont own a RB20, just a 26. Regardless how it is wired up it still shouldnt turn off. I think that could be the problem.. Are u sure u havent put the fuel lines on in reverse, then there would be no pressure in the rail, but then wouldnt explaine why the fuel filter would pop off etc...actually yes it would pop it off, there backwards

When you goto the last click on the key barrel, before the starter signal the fuel pump will run and then stop, the fuel pump primes, but as the motor is not spinning the computer shuts the pump off. This is so the pump doesnt keep running if the motor stalls or you have an accident etc. So this is normal. Next thing is the injectors firing or not doesnt change the fuel pressure top pop the filter off, the fuel is held "back" by the fuel pressure regulator on the end of the fuel rail, when a certain pressure is reached it lets the excess fuel back into the fuel tank. Are these top feed or side feed? If side feed you can removed the rail from the manifold while leaving the fuel lines connected, and carefully get someone to crank the motor and see if the injectors fire, be sure to have rags everywhere as you dont want fuel going everywhere. edit i see your sig says rb20, so they are top feed, so you cant just take the rail off. I think you can use a test light, touch each terminal in the injector plug and you should see if it turns on for a split second, i havent tried this my self so im not sure if they are open long enough to actually see the light go on.

I doubt you will be losing 70 kw through a front diff, its just too much power. In rolling element bearings and gears there is very little friction and are quite efficient. Some CV drive shafts wouldnt lose that much power either.

For your interest i went to nissan here and syncros etc are all avalible ex melbourne so you can get them over night...

this is pretty good im going to go see if i can get parts for my R32 gtr box soon, i got to get mine rebuilt its whiny as.

out of interest u didnt ask about the hicas rack ends, the bits that screw intot he rack? Mine have a bit too much play in them, but ball joints are ok.

In adleaide there any many smaller builders that are good, also Rhemac and Adelaide engine developments are good.

if it seals then there is no problem.

-The rear rollers arn't even connected to the front rollers, so how is there any extra traction? traction is simple, there is a coefficient of friction between the tyre and the roller, and a normal force on the tyre, times these together gives your frictional force. For simplicity, say the normal forces from front and rear rollers on the tyre are the same, as the front roller is the only one that is driven (or retarded by the retarders) friction will be halved compared to having the tyre ride up onto the front roller only as there is only the one normal force on the front rollers. (halving the traction is not exactly correct but good enough for the example) -A dyno just measures how fast you accelerate the rollers, it knows the inertia of the rollers, factoring in what ramp rate is used then it can calculate power. I'm not sure how having a tyre spin on the roller will actually make the roller "overspeed" but that is not possible. I mean going by this does it mean if I wheel spin on the road I will move faster then if I was not wheel spinning? Don't think so.