GTR1993
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Posts posted by GTR1993
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Yea that is the plan....it will be all tube chassis.
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oh yea sorry, there is an adapter under the sump as it is a RB30 block. Then the full custom dry sump!
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Hi Guys,
Thought some people might be interested in what I have been working on. Its a RB30 with a custom sump adapter I designed that moves the diff section of the sump forward 140mm. I then cut the sump up and got a heap of water cut ally sheet and got it welded. I haven't done the windage trays yet and also it needs another oil drain point int he front of the sump. Sorry about the pics it was just taken on my iphone. This is a sump I want to put into my datsun 1200. There was 10 hours of welding in the thing!
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Got a RB30 to RB26 sump adapter, CNC machined, slash ground to be flat as, in the main for sale section. $430 pick up! Comes with all hard ware needed etc.
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Hi guys, got a sump adapter for sale. I had a project where i was moving a gtr sump forward 140mm on a rb30 and also am putting a 30 in my street GTR so I had a block put on the CMM machine. I designed up the adapter and ran an extra adapter off on the CNC while I was at it.
Comes with all high tensile cap head bolts, washers and spring washers.
Adapter of course - CNC machined and slash ground for a perfectly flat finish.
Laser cut profile guides for notching the block.
$430, Will ship aus wide! Located in SA, contact me on 0403431194, SMS preferred during the day as I work.
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First thing I would do is measure where the sump bolts to on a ls2 in relation the the height of the crank and compare it to a GTR. I have made a custom sump and adapter that moves the GTR diff forward 140mm, so I can mount the 26/30 further rearward. I already have a SR20 to RB25/26 box conversion jig and was even playing witht he idea of making a 4wd north south sr20 "gtr" (but put it in a clubman style thing)
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Hi Guys,
R34 RB26 block, 30,000 ish km, $400 As you can see very minimal scoring of the bore.
As above rods and pistons, no det marks, the head dropped valve guide ends.... $150 take them away.
Message me on 0403431194
Cheers
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When you start the car can you hear the 4wd pump priming? Mine takes heaps longer when its been sitting for a while. I tried to bleed the system but didnt help. I think the pump is on its way out.
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Thread revival!
Where in the bearing tunnel is the best spot to measure for clearance?
Should the caps be torqued up with out the crank inplace or...?
put in your bearings, then mains caps, girdle and bolts that you will use (torques down). measure each main tunnel. U can measure at different spots on each tunnel. at say 12 and 6, 2 and 8, 4 and 10 o'clock etc.then measure up each journal of the crank. If the clearances are too big then you can get the caps machined down and the block line bored again to a size that is more appropriate.
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yep motor out, "technically" u could drop the subframe and take the box off but what is the point.
Sump is sold pending payment, if it falls through i will report back.
I am located south of the city about 20 minutes.
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how do i tell the difference? I thought the coils were different between them but there are no coils with the motor.
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Sump sold pending payment
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Wheels sold, display and harnesses sold pending payment
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All located in SA, prices NEG, can ship IF YOU ARE SERIOUS. Want to clear out my house it looks like an import wrecker yard. Message me on 0403431194
OMP and RPM harnesses, used for a few months in a car that was never driven, comes with shoulder pads. $60 the lot.
diagnostic tool, displays all information from the standard nissan ecu vis the diagnostic port. Shows information much like the power fc can. $60 take it away.
Fuel rail,standard SR20 with -6 fittings welded on each end, supported over 400 rwkw. $15.
Bride Brix seat with rail suit R32 and S13, mint condition seat. Will hold ur ass tighter then a gay man at the mars bar. $500 with rail.
S13 SR20det motor, no turbo fairly complete. Suit rebuild, would be good for someone to build then swap the motor over in their car. $400
S13 head, had it sitting around for years, have all valves etc, rockers, cam caps. Again would suit someone wanting to port a head etc. $100
S13 sr20det block, main caps, girdle, crank. All decent condition, suit rebuild of course. $200 the lot cheap as chips.
Rb 25det bottom end, cracked ring lands, needs rebuild with pistons. Motor Is mint (drove in before we swapped motor) would be perfect for someone wanting a mild motor with just forged pistons in it. $200.
Rb25 head, no cams but has everything else. Mint as good for 30 bottom end conversion, no manifolds. $200 cheap as.
R34 rb26 block, crank, rods pistons. Block needs rebore as it dropped some valve guide. $400 for block, $600 crank, rods pistons 100, oil pump 100. Has done minimal km at it was mint apart from the valve guide.
Convo wheels, 15x10, massive dish, suit ford nissan chev holden, price drop!!!!!$$$$$$$$$$$700
Dont want to kill your 26???? put on this bad boy, HI OCTANE cast sump, will all the trap doors etc inside, welded to the sump with extended pick up, ready to bolt up, $700, too cheap.
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Those rods would be around the 700 mark with arp bolts in them. I have used both standard GTR rods with bolts in my 26 and eagle rods in some SR20s, no issues with the eagles with 162 hp per rod.
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free, until u get them re bushed, buy arp bolts then get the big ends resized.
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actually, they both run an r200 diff so both able as each other to handle the same power. the gtr one does have a factory mechanical 2 way centre while s13 is viscous LSD.
gtr driveshafts are stronger
gtr hubs are alloy
they have the same geometery including the poor front mounting point for LCA (fixed in R33/S14 onwards)
Can you elaborate a bit? If this is the case i will go pick up a later model subframe and transfer over my gtr gear! (is this possible?)
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bump few interest pms but nothing solid.
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pics of the 34 block, got the 32 covers on the 34 motor cos I swapped my mate.
pic of the 34 cam drive, and check out how clean the oil pick up is....
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Oh I thought I had the 34 block listed, seems I don't.
$485 for the block, Ill take a pick tomorrow, you will see it is clean inside, no burnt on oil in this thing.
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I assume the R34 block?
The R32 block was approx 100,000 km
The R34 block was 26,000 km, I have the sump off on an engine stand and you can see it looks brand new.
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get a new missus
Arp Head Studs And Cometic Head Gasket
in Engines & Forced Induction
Posted
I was told this is a massive no no because you then have loctite between the threads rather then the stud onto the steel of the block when it is tight, Then when you do it up you can squash the loctite.