floody

Simple answer is most RB manual gearboxes are a direct swap for each other; exceptions being AWD and RB25DET boxs. So anything RB20E/ET/DE/DET will fit, RB30E box will fit (VL Turbo RB30ET box is larger), RB25DE box will fit. Same applies to non-skyline chassis, e.g. Cefiro, Laurel, VL Commodore. There are theoretically minor internal differences between RB20 turbo and non-turbo gearboxes (e.g. double synchros on first and second in most 'turbo' boxes, differences in case reinforcing webs), in practice they don't always apply and don't really matter.

Solved issue. Someone had tapped the 12v feed and it had partly fried, this in turn caused the pedal switch to fail. Ran new wires and replaced switch. Worth checking. I have a D21, had a look at it, someone had tapped the same wire on it for some long removed device, aaaaand the same on my HR31! Luckily they'd been done a bit better.

Having some dramas, my partner's S1 RS4V lost its brake lights yesterday. High mount, sides and centre all dead. Park/Tail/reverse lights fine. Stuff I've checked: -There's no voltage at the pedal switch -Brake light fuse intact, swapped with spare, no change, measured no voltage at fuse. -Globes fine. I'm tearing my remaining hair out, and I have about 24 hours in which to get it sorted. The ATTESA pump is also priming abnormally long and intermittently chucking the 4WD light. Both things have happened inside a couple of days so I feel there may be a connection.

Given a new Dayz bar is circa $3k, $440 seems fine.

They have some great stuff, no S1 Dayz bar though sadly! Turns out a new replacement 'fascia kit' (bumper skin, chrome mouldings and fittings) is nearly $3k if you have a Dayz or late build series 1.

Chasing S1 Dayz/aero front bar. Will pay good money for good condition item. Sonic silver (KR4) best but any color is fine. Unmodified is essential, e.g. not cut up, demeshed etc. I will pay freight+packaging cost if you can pack it up nicely.

I am aware of how hard they are to get and just putting a feeler out, will pay good money. We were recently in an accident and its proving near impossible to nut out which grille it is and it seems to be NLA in any case. It would be disappointing to retrofit a boring mesh grille. Stole a picture from Adam to demonstrate; its full chrome, ours has a central badge which I have saved. I believe there is a version with titanium/grey painted slats and that would also be fine. PM is easiest contact.

SOLD.

Offer pending. As to where the turbo sits, its in roughly the same area, maybe a bit lower and further out, however the turbo flange is pretty much horizontal so you would need a custom dump and rotated core to run a RB20/25/VG30 turbo on it.

I've got a genuine R31 GTS-R manifold and heatshield which sadly may have to go. Low mount T3 flange, RB20/25 head flange, thick wall stainless construction long tube manifold. No cracks, no repairs, flange is perfect, and it includes the formed heatshield to suit. These were designed for Group A homologation and fitted to the 800 R31 2000GTS-Rs Nissan built in 1987. It took me a few years to find the heatshield to go with the manifold which I purchased bare. When available in this condition they change hands for ¥200,000+ with the heatshield, and ¥150,000+ without. Looking for $1,500, inclusive of postage within Australia. Might consider sensible offers. Easiest contact is via PM.

I bought the Whiteline HD ones and they worked, but not without spacing them away from the body on the swaybar side. If the spindles were about 10mm shorter it would be a much better arrangement. I guess they're designed foremost for Whiteline's own bars, presuming the ends of them are thicker.

XRATED, thats the same kind of thing that got me thinking, I've crawled into a few places it by all rights shouldn't have been, it seems very competent getting around on gravel and sand, through muddy paddocks and up and over stuff. I think the rear subframe could be spaced down, isn't the upper arm in the front mounted to the chassis though? so I'm guessing that wouldn't work for the front. Ours seems to have a little negative camber on the back at stock height so I'm guessing a little bit of lift via spring/strut there wouldn't hurt, front I'm not so sure how much you could lift without going into positive camber. Clearance wise I think with early bumpers, no skirts and no lips it wouldn't be too bad, sump does hang pretty low but could always run a bashguard tied back to the crossmember.

Well now they're getting cheaper at the bottom end, I think a grubby C34 would make a great softroader, basically. Some slightly larger diameter all-terrain tyres (235/60R16 looks good and fairly common) would get a little clearance but at the same time would need a little more height to help guard clearance. I was thinking along the lines of stiffer springs and some strut top spacers.

Just following a train of thought here, wondering if anybody has raised a C34 above stock height, if so how, and what issues did they encounter?

The Garrett I am interested in is $740USD for the bare turbo with my choice of exhaust housing, $168usd for the v-band bolt on gate; $908AUD currently. Plus an unknown amount to ship. The Kando is $785, including a bunch of fittings, choice of wastegate actuator etc. The Hypergear is listed on site at $1150 for the bare turbo plus $180 for the wastegate, plus shipping. All linked in my previous post. So on my maths, so long as the Garrett doesn't cost more than $300 to ship it should come in as cheap as or cheaper than the HG's pre-shipping cost, and no, HG's $1330 isn't double $785 but its getting close. I don't need or want the 6 bolt flange I have now, because the long tube GTS-R manifold turns the turbo almost 90° and sites it lower than the non-R cast manifolds do; no matter what I will be having a V-band dump made. My preference is for an internal gate turbo (either cast in or bolt on gate) with a V-band outlet.

Mostly because I know nothing about them, nobody I know has ever used one, but looking at the spec on their website it sounds like a good thing. That said, its more expensive than even the Garrett option I'm looking at, and almost double the cost of the Kando for the turbo and v-band gate alone. Which is fine if its twice as good?

Hell no, I ain't selling that thing ever! And yeah I'd never chop it up, no way no how. Its been suggested I weld an elbow onto an external gate housing and run a gate off that, or run a spacer with a gate pipe between turbo and manifold, but I think I'm going to run out of room in either situation there (strut tower in the first instance and engine mounts in the second), so I just want to know if I can reasonably successfully run an internal gate at that kind of power/boost level.

So I want a new turbo for my RB20DET as its going to be pointless swapping my VG30 OP6 turbo onto my RB20DET-R manifold. Thinking this TD06SL2 8cm with Garrett 60-1 compressor would be a good thing. I have Nistune, Z32 AFM, GT-R injectors, unopened motor, RB20DET-R spaghetti manifold. I am thinking internal gate as space will be at a premium with the turbo placement on that manifold for tapping the exhaust housing for ex. gate, and no way in hell am I cutting up the manifold itself. I'd like to shoot for 1.2-1.5bar boost and hopefully 220-240rwkw. Is it going to be completely useless for my application? I was otherwise going to go for a T3/T4 60 trim Garrett with ATP's 'ultimate internal gate' (ford bolt on type)to try and replicate the GTS-R's T04E as closely as possible but the Kando seems an equally good option for a lot less money by the time you factor in all the fittings and stuff. Thoughts?

Its not the BOV; the BOV story rings some truth but its right up there with coilpacks being the fix for 90% of problems according to the forums...theres likely still an underlying issue. Definitely find the tutorial and give the AAC valve a clean. Made a big difference when we had low speed/snap throttle closed stall issues with our S1. Curiously replacing the O2 sensor also helped, though ours appeared to be the original item.

All good, 861 bars are pretty much shorter by the amount the 863s overhang, I'll order some tomorrow.

Definitely would run a basket. Spread the load better, easier to tie down etc. its all academic because you're still supporting the lot via the roof rails anyway, Yeah I have the 757 foot pack, I was just a bit mislead it appears by the recommendation for the 863 bars on the Japanese (english language) site. I don't know what the 863 bars will fit, maybe M35? Who knows. The listing was for 1997-2001 Stagea.

Just wondering if anyone is running a Thule rack on their C34 Stagea and if so, what bar width are you using? I followed the fit guide on Thule Japan's site which recommended 863 (aero bar) which are 150cm and as it turns out way over length. I need to order the right width bar in so what do I need? I'm thinking 127cm ones (aero bar 861)?

You're not going to get a finish like that short of media/soda/vapour blasting

New pins went in with goss drylube. Reamed the holes lightly to clean them up. The thing is when they seize, it will pivot at the neck of the pin until it fatigues and breaks, so I think its well worth checking, two on the same car suggest its not an isolated issue...Wreckers I tried for calipers were useless as theirs were seized also.

Just a heads up, I suggest anyone with an S1 should check their rear calipers for freedom of movement and the condition of the larger (top as fitted) sliding pin. My partner broke one in her Dayz on Friday, and when we went to replace it and the pads (as the caliper had seized on an angle), the other one turned out to be broken also. Both were old fractures as shown by darkened/discoloured metal and corrosion. For whatever reason the passenger side piston housing rotated up off the pads and the piston pushed almost all the way out with the result being a near total lack of brakes. The only symptoms leading up to finding this were occasional brake squeak when moving at low speed, and a long pedal stroke in general. Both rear caliper slides had completely seized, and its my opinion the action of the piston is what broke the pins finally. The drivers side pin was so seized as to need to be punched out in a hydraulic press. The pins are available through Nissan ex-Melbourne and are approx $35 each, I would suggest purchasing a pair and replacing them.