floody

My apologies. Will do.

My girlfriend just bought an S1 stag, which seems to be missing a bit on boost. Its running constant 10psi occasionally spiking to 11-12psi. I'm thinking the miss may well be rich + retard... Funnily enough it has what appears to be a HKS adjustable turbo actuator. I've never had one of those before, and I'm hoping it may be possible to wind the boost down a bit. How do I go about this?

Fluids yes. Nissan filters..only things much cheaper are Valvoline from supercheap, even Ryco is pricier. $7.30 for an OEM quality oil filter, Highway Robbery!

The one I've been driving is noticeably heavier on the highway/at higher speeds than it is around town, in fact its very light at low speed. This is consistent too. Surely it must have some sort of variable assist?

Sounds like you have a 3.9:1 ratio long nose R200 differential. I would retain this differential and fit a suitable limited slip centre. It should compliment the RB25DET and gearbox quite well. The original differential casing in the R31 is a load bearing item; the R33 casings are not. I would advise it is not a good idea to try and use the R33 differential housing.

In any case, it doesn't sound or feel like ignition issues and the coilpacks appear fine from all possible inspections. Any other ideas? Aside from fuel pump.

Time does the rest? why are R33 ones etc failing in 10 years or so, when my HR31 items, being nestled in a hot little RB20DET for 2 decades are powering on though? Is it more an RB25 problem?

I'm wary of spending money on coilpacks as usually you end up replacing perfectly functional items, only to find further down the track that it was the loom, CAS or similar that was the real problem. If it is coilpacks...WTF is up with their quality in late model skylines? I have 20 year old ones in my HR31 which are still in A1 condition, but seems R32/33/Stag items crap out inside a decade.

I'm currently experiencing something that sounds very similar to the original poster's issue. Misfire on boost and above half throttle, from about 3-5000rpm. Initially we thought it was as the car had run low on fuel, as chucking $30 worth of fuel in seemed to fix it, although it still missed up near 6k rpm...for about 15 minutes then the misfire came back just as before. Changed plugs, fuel filter etc, still not sorted. Coilpacks look 100% fine (in my experience the classic internet mechanic fix of changing them just masks the real issue anyway). Its an auto late '97 S1 with a pod filter and full Nismo exhaust, test gauge says 10psi maximum with no spiking any higher. I couldn't discern a big fuel cloud in the mirrors though..... All that strikes me is fuel pump perhaps? Any ideas?

Love or hate the brand, but the XA/XB Falcon coupes (with suitable wheels) are a very attractive and balanced looking car, from every angle. HQ GTS coupe is pretty good too. Pantera with the full GT5 Flares, wings and things is a big winner. 365GTB/4 Daytona is awesome but technically 60's. Lancia Stratos is an amazing looking car...perhaps a bit unfinished from the rear. 240Z is pretty timeless but again I guess its a 60's car.

I'll take the oil cooler core (the $40 one without the lines etc), PM me and we'll work out when. I don't think I'll have time to come and get it until next week though.

Of course its got a wastegate, its not going to just freeboost is it. I'm glad they pull trucks all the time. They're pretty f**king dangerous things to drivers and other motorists when not in tip top mechanical nick.

Bingo! Fill the guards FLUSH, slam it, put a quality exhaust system on it, perhaps dark tints. It won't just have presence, it will have menace; and be 11ty billion times tougher than it will ever be with all the other wanktastic ideas...if you want the fast and furious look you might as well have bought a NA Supra and put a giant stylised penis graphic down the side.

Ha, fair enough, apologies for that; it looked just like one thats been for sale elsewhere recently. Good luck with the sale.

LOL price on this goes up and down like a Yo Yo! Wasn't it $9,500 in the trading post?

My RB20DET is out of the 31 and stripped to a short block now; was inspected this week so I'm waiting on a quote for machining and assembly. Had spun number four big end and number four piston has some damage to a ring land which looks like it probably contacted the head when the slop got great enough.... However the head looks fine, bores etc are pretty good, crank and rod look saveable. Most likely just a stock rebuild with new genuine pistons and rings, decent bearings. Thinking of going with an N1 oil pump to insure against another oil pump related failure. Few little toys for the outside, bigger injectors, front mount cooler, Nistune board in the ECU etc.

Not all turbo cars come from the factory with BOVs... Of course your late model skylines all do. Nearly 4 years and counting and the police haven't tried to do me for anything related to the car itself... I can't just be slipping through the cracks mate, maybe the fact its legal and I don't drive around town like a dickhead makes the difference. What, should I be driving like its powercruise when I go to the shops for some milk or commute to work? Call me someone who drives like an old fart but I'm someone who doesn't attract the wrong attention. And, ah...don't plumb your BOV into the exhaust!

So you were thrashing the pisser out of it a few blocks before or something then? Can't imagine the cops just randomly walked up while you were in the shop and went over the car... Put a stock plumbback one back on, sell the shiny wanktastic one to some fool, live in peace. Only reason you could want an atmo venting one is attention or noise, in which case..HTFU. Ahh well, my car never had a bov, never will have one. Its loud as f#ck with a 3" straight through exhaust and has a pretty loud flutter too, but I know how to drive when there might be eyes on me.

So, what gets damaged?

Just wondering if anybody has any experience with the Apex'i ECV or similar exhaust butterfly valve setups. Do they represent any real reduction in noise? Does it totally choke the performance? Can you install the switch mechanism in a reasonably unobtrusive fashion? Other negative effects? If I go with one, I'd be only using it tootling about town in the closed position.

edit: nevermind

Hehe, just saw that comment... JB also rates the DR30 as one of the worst race cars he ever drove. Says a lot for Seton and Fury's ability.

Anybody got any info on FJ20ET injectors? I'm told they're 370cc, and I gather they're hosetail items. Thats as much as I know. Hoping for a Nissan part number, JECS/Zexel/etc part number, Bosch equivalent/replacement part number, any of this sort of info? Anybody got a picture of one? These appear to have been the gun upgrade for HR31 RB20DET's back in the day, basically straight fit and a decent flow upgrade.

Oh I have a line on a motor...and they aren't that hard to get anyway. Plenum is mainly due to the throttle cable fouling the strut brace on a R33 RB25, and ability to run HR31 RB20DET plenum top on a R32 RB25 which means my throttle body will bolt up and my cable won't be in the way. I was only thinking thicker gasket as in an aftermarket one, HKS, Tomei etc; standard thickness would be fine I guess and reduce chances of hotspots etc. At 10:1 comp and the hills here, with our at times dodgy fuel I am a bit worried about detonation though...suppose I could tune it very rich and run Shell V-Power from Autocraft.

Yeah should be able to get Ultimate anywhere, I filled up somewhere on the east coast and got it.. I have gone back to Caltex's Vortex '95' though, my car seems to go better on it than what we are sold as 'Ultimate'.