floody

Going really good, except it has a mystery top-end-of-motor rattle. Its like a lifter rattle but really loud and "clacky"...AND disappears under load - but its there on light load/coasting and free revving. F#cks me what it is!

Update: I've had both rocker covers off, turned it over on the starter and everything certainly looks to be working at that speed and everything rotates and reciprocates silently. Tried different oil and flush to no avail. The noise has become a bit more tinny but otherwise is just the same. Have done the long bar "microphone" thing and its definitely a top end noise. Oil is clean, no particles etc that you wouldn't expect. Must be getting on for 3500+ kms since I heard the noise so I am fairly confident its not a big end.

WTF is a suzuki ZZR? I've ridden a Kawasaki ZZ-R250 which is a twin, and actually go pretty good for a 250...And a suzuki across which is a four with two carbs, and which could be dragged by pedestrians...

Oh I agree, about as easy as giving a haircut over the phone. I was hoping someone might think that my account was a bit similar to their experience. Trusted mechanic...I wish Looks like I'll have to skin some more knuckles and rip it to bits.

Grey import bikes are invariably shitboxes. You're not fooling anyone, and a 250cc four is still gutless even if it looks like a sportsbike, just get something reliable, cheap to maintain and run, and delivered new here. When you're off your Ls/Ps buy something you want to pose on then.

Ok, I'm coming to the conclusion its in the bottom end, but that doesn't explain why its most apparent only on light load. Also, would it be likely a bottom end rattle would set off the rich & retard functions of the ECU via the knock sensor? I note if I load the car up and launch off the line under load, hence no rattling, it pulls hard and clean through the revs, however if I walk off the line, move slowly up through the revs (and can audibly hear the rattle) then stab the throttle it overfuels and misses badly, feels to me like its very rich, very retarded. I know its not an RB26, but maybe someone will have some ideas.

Hektik bro!

Oh man, if only they were 8 and 9"... Then again... you don't want to swap for a set of 17x8, 17x9" 4+5x114.3 rims by any chance?

Neither has anyone else as yet. However there is one guy with a GTS-R engine in bits on the R31club...but I don't know if he'd have the ability to measure them up. Username is snoopy. However, I think its a very fair bet they are 248/7.8mm in, 240/7.8mm ex just like the regular NICS/ECCS redtop.

Its a long shot but I have a towbar which was mounted to my HR31 Skyline coupe; its actually a genuine Nissan Australia item. I don't want it. I don't think its even worth a case but maybe a 6 pack of a nice beer , or nothing, I'm sick of it in my carport. Pointless on an R31 import, hook on a trailer and you'd have about 6 degrees of negative camber in the back, f**king trailing arm shit... Could be a goer or relatively easily adapted. Yours if you want to try it.

My RB20 has developed a rather nasty, harsh, rhythmic sounding rattle. Its a lot like a bad lifter sound but its concentrated and sharper, louder. It happens from 2500rpm+ but stays pretty constant right to high revs. Oil pressure is fine. It disappears with load, but is always evident on light throttle/free revving anywhere over 2500rpm, and sometimes on decel as you close the throttle. Thicker oil seemed to move the noise up in the rev range a little without changing its pitch or volume. It does sound a bit more randomly "clattery" on sustained light throttle, but in general its a rhythmic, constant noise until you gas it. Noise is definitely concentrated in the top end.

Wondering if someone could give me a centre to centre measurement, roughly, of how the R34 cooler pipes are spaced where they go down through the guard area? cheers.

I think the BNR32 was a massive step in philosophy. Its a completely different animal to a KPGC10 GT-R, C110 GT-R, HR31 GTS-R; not just technically but in the way that its big, complex and thoroughly mass produced where the previous motorsport flagship models were all somewhat rough edged and limited production, with a far more obvious presence of the human hand of the maker. A C10 GT-R has that beautiful but fragile and hand built S20, tacked on afterthought guards etc, a HR31 GTS-R has styling thats at best functional, a massive mismatched turbo, handmade steel exhaust manifold; The BNR32 looks, drives and feels like it was built by massive computers and giant machines not fabricated by tradesmen. Technically the end of the Showa era seemed to be a big step for all Nissans. A HR31 GTS-R has DNA and a quite surprising amount of straight fit parts compatibility, shared geometries and principles which reach back to the C10 Skylines. The R32s stepped into the new era with a completely fresh sheet with chassis design, complete powertrain redesign etc. In fact this even holds for other models; an S13 is a similar evolutionary step over the S12, and the S12 has close commonality with the S110 etc. I think with the ideas and technology in play its a similar tour de force as the R32 was in technical terms but its not the big step in process and design philosophy the R32 was.

Good fit on an FD with stock calipers then? I'll let a mate of mine know, he just bought a nice FD with some chromies on it. Think he'd probably want staggered fit though.

Well then... Having had in my possession two 20 year old RB20DET ceramic turbos which had never been used with a BOV, I can fairly safely say unless Nissan turbos are something bloody special, the turbo rebuild thing is a myth. One was a spare and one was removed to make way for a new turbo, the one I removed had been running around 1 bar from 1996 to 2005. Neither showed any damage to the compressor or abnormal bearing wear, and in fact were both then used in other cars and as far as I know are still going over 2 years later. Nissan in particular introduced BOVs onto their cars as a measure to reduce double metering of air and rich fuel spikes, and to quiten down intake noise, both aimed at new emissions control regulations which came into force around the introduction of the R32, S13 etc. If I was running 30psi of boost in a race situation? Maybe there might be something in it. Then again turbo longevity wasn't a major issue for the 300rwkw RB20s of Gibson Motorsport, or big horsepower FJ20ETs, which didn't run any form of BOV or compressor bypass valve. In short my feeling is that the only people who will constantly use the turbo lifespan argument are forum wankers who need a noisy BOV to make up for their lack of social skills and intelligence. And as for the "but the cars are mostly standard that those old turbos are on" argument, that too is bullshit as the cars which most BOVs are on are mostly standard too. Also, as noted in the text GTST quoted, generally turbo cars with no BOV are quicker around a track, so the throttle response thing (which I have noted personally to be false) mustn't be too well supported. In short they're a wank, unless standard fitment.

Bridgestones with the sidewall protectors stretch the best in my experience, GIIIs, RE050s and all the rest. Toyos are shite. Hankooks stretch ok for something you might be shredding on a regular basis (rears).

LOL not quite no.

None. Plumb back ones are just emissions and noise reducing BS (hence why Nissan never used them prior to 1988-89) and atmo venting ones are for wankers.

Well that would be why. If you are sticking with the redtop, a redtop ECCS six port manifold will fit; however this does mean you'll still have the 12 port butterfly plate as they both run it. Also the NICS has the injector bosses in the head casting, ECCS has them in the manifold, so you'd have to blank those injector bosses. Aftermarket RB20/25 exhaust manifolds will fit, intake no. Rumour has it the redtop blocks are stronger, but yet to see proof of that. I guess with the butterflies out, sandwich plate ported and the ECCS manifold in a redtop should flow as much or even more air than the silvertop head. All the crap to run a redtop is ancient and somewhat unreliable, you'd really need to adapt silvertop sensors and stuff to make it a bit more reliable. It seems like a lot of farking round for a stock motor build; unless you're going to piece together an animal 20 or an RB24 I'd probably just slot in a complete silvertop and save the pain.

Any chance of some measurements?

which ones are the 215/45R17s ? Also any idea on the rim offsets?

Heater box positioning. Placing an extremely expensive, non serviceable item prone to leakage where it generally is impossible to access without removing effectively half the interior, and is guaranteed to at some point leak and spark off rust issues in the floor pan, is pretty stupid really. Everything on the intake side of the HR31 RB20DET; it is near impossible to access anything on that side with the gearbox in, in fact most things would be easier with the engine out. That doesn't just go for the complex network of sensors and vacuum actuators, but also for things like the oil filter. I believe its mostly due to the short deck height and extreme width of the head, which puts the bulky intake very close to the strut tower. RB25s and RB30s in the same engine bay are nowhere near as bad.

I don't have a receipt as far as I know, its been sitting around here since March and I bought it through a mate interstate. It is genuine, I bought it through Colrain Truck and Trail, not a bodgy ebayer or anything. I have no idea if its a straight drop in but I think the fit would be similar to most other aftermarket pumps, i.e. 040, though as noted the body is smaller overall.

Bosch 984 fuel pump, technically an external pump but could be used internally. I bought it new a few months back and haven't got around to fitting it as my issue turned out to be elsewhere. New in original box. 228 litres per hour and supports 500 bhp at 73.5 PSI I paid $200 and shipping, will take $150 + $10 for an express post bag posted within Australia.

Up to now I'd been using the RB20 actuator on my VG30DET turbo, but it seems to be on the way out . I'm thinking of buying this http://www.atpturbo.com/Merchant2/merchant...tegory_Code=WGT which is a 12-14psi adjustable actuator for a GT28R. It looks very similar in the bend in the rod etc to my RB item. My turbo is a late model bb VG30DET item from a cima. Am I on the right track? likely to fit? And I am assuming running a 12psi actuator for 12-14psi boost is better than running a 10psi one with a bleed valve?