floody

Wow, that looks awesome! Shame theres no higher res pics From the look of the rims it must be pretty wide!

Surely someone could lay a ruler over their taillights and just tell me how wide the "circles" are?

Can anyone give me the measurements of the taillight lenses of R32 and R34 coupes? For the R34 obviously both sizes.

Its not worth it. The block/head would be ideal if you were building a race engine, that HAD to retain a HR31 Skyline style intake manifold.

Umm, its a C210? GT-ES coupe, not a GTS-R.

After a cheap (but working) fuel cut defender for my RB20DET. PM me if you have something, only looking to spend $50-75.

Awesome! For me, as cool as an original one is, I'd have no interest in a fragile, irreplaceable and gutless 160hp 2 litre (even if it sounds nice) when I could have a replica with everything else and a thumping 3.1+ L motor. And yeah I'd probably rather have that and a HR31 GTS-R, instead of an R34 GT-R.

Even S3 ones were. But obviously not the only choice of motor, given you could have anything from a diesel to a RB20DET ECCS.

GHEY! The full grid of Aussie and NZ F5000 cars they were going to have would have been far more interesting than those fricking Euro-poof sports sedans. Well thats what I think anyway.

Yeah the blitz coolers do have that style but they're still $1000ish and most likely there is no longer a HR31 specific kit anyway. Cheers though. Whereas I'm thinking GT-R or random brand 600x300 cooler and piping made locally will be substantially cheaper and I can choose how it fits, plus not lose any appreciable function (I'm unlikely to be venturing any further than 170rwkw or so with my 18 year old motor).

Well, after doing a bit of reading, trying to decide how to run the piping in my HR31 Coupe .... I've found very little conclusive info. I don't like the design of the generic kits with the radiator crossover - seems like too much pipe, too many connections, and I'm not keen on cutting new holes. The ARC/AVO style kits with the 90 degree endtank on the drivers side end and stock-ish pipe layout in the engine bay seem good, but intercoolers like that only seem available in their off the shelf kits and the prices are ridiculous (the most extreme being ARC's HR31 GTS-R Gr. A spec kit at $3,500!). Finally, the last option seems to be the 120 degree turn off the throttle body, down under the headlight and 600x300x? generic intercooler style, with larger piping off the turbo following the stock routing out of the engine bay. This would make access to a couple of things (oil cap, some hoses and sensors) a little difficult and necessitate re-routing some pollution gear and vac hoses, but seems to require a lot less piping, less connections, and removing one pipe to fill up with oil is no huge problem . As well as that it seems to be the preferred method when the RB20DET was being used in touring car racing. Any thoughts on my logic?

Any ideas as to whether the advice applicable to R32 RB20's here re the cams is applicable to the HR31 redtop RB20s? The redtop seems to have marginally more agressive cams from the factory*, but most aftermarket sites seem to list them as the same fitment for upgrades. But given the belt, gears etc are the same I'm hoping what goes for one goes for the other. So a little different, but my guess is they should swap the same? *Redtop is duration 248 in, 240 ex, 7.80 lift (both), LCA in 108, LCA ex 118. *Silvertop is duration 240 in, 232 ex, 7.80 lift in, 7.30 lift ex, LCA in 111, LCA ex 118.

Go to NS.com, theres a complete R30 with an L28E up north for $1000. Can't get better than an L28!

Hey! WTF! F#cking scanner software! I swear its the right way round in the magazine, haha. Aoshima make model kits of these cars if anyone is wondering. They have quite the following.

Ahh okay, just looked odd to me as side by side all the tread cuts run the same way, i.e one lot are facing forward relative to rotation. All good, I wasn't sure as I'd had directional stuff but not asymmetric before. Won't last long anyway, haha.

Picked up some good tread 2nd hand RE050A's to chuck on the back of the car , but being assymetrical it seems I've got 2 lefts or two rights, something like that from the looks. Will it really make that big a difference for rear tyres (rwd car)? They're only going to be on there a couple of months until I can buy something brand new anyway.

Hey worth a try you know. I think 265's on 17s would be a bit far. They'd be perfect for the drag day though, if you want to part with them? EDIT: All rubbered up now. Cheers folks.

After some rubber to get my new rims on the car, something roadworthy. 50% tread plus. And cheap. You can see I'm not asking much, ha ha. So I need two tyres for the back, something like: 245/40R17 255/40R17 245/45R17 255/45R17 (I think 255/45 will probably be a bit much, but I'd give it a go).

YEAR:08/1988 MODEL:HR31 GTS BODY TYPE:Coupe COLOUR: White DRIVETRAIN: RB20DET ECCS (redtop), VG30 turbo

In before the lock? Anyway, no warranty covers stupidity.

I don't like F1 drivers and racing(well, the modern era anyway) so that means I can't drive? ok. Sorry, I just have no respect for the whole stage managed circus that it is, not to mention that its some of the most stupefyingly boring racing there is. Well, except FIA sports cars/prototypes and JGTC. Anyway, perhaps I'm not as practised at driving a greasy finger up my own arsehole as you are with yours, Andy. All that says, to me, is just how unremarkable the quality of the field is. This is all relative , as of course they are all incredibly skilled drivers. I feel I can say "x is relatively crap" without it necessarily having to mean "x is relatively crap compared to me".

No. I think there have been plenty of better drivers. I also think the quality of competition has been lower and the cars have been better than ever. Anyway, IMO, F1 is motorsport's answer to WWF.

I'm after a set of stock water lines and banjo bolts to suit R32/33 turbo. Anyone got a set kicking around?

Yep no worries. I had it all apart and couldn't get it to budge, I had it in my head the whole housing had to come off, I wasn't game to start prying at the seal but I will. As it happens the seal housing itself has 3 stripped bolt holes in it (where the sump pan bolts up to it) so I'm going to have to replace that too. Rubber grease, where from?

Ok, RB20 rear main seal - I want to do it, and since it turns out someone has stripped 4 bolts in and around it I may as well do it. It didn't seem to be leaking, I know the gearbox was, but all around the seal was ever so slightly damp with oil so I suppose it is. Is it bolted from inside as well as out ? sump off job? In that case can you get the sump off with the engine in situ (HR31 Skyline)?