floody

I noted that - I also noted other magazines at the newsagents slightly before or subsequent to that issue which had what appeared to be exactly the same photographs and much the same copy...(Pommy mags I think, Banzai?). I think HPI has always been borderline on having enough content to diverge fully from Zoom; with drift battle its reduced any unique opportunities to have a standout import magazine further. Without HPI turning into a import parts and cars catalogue I can't personally see any changes happening. I think HPI->Zoom->Drift Battle between them stretch too little content too far. And HPI/Drift Battle are slowly beginning to look like an Otomoto brochure - editor's perogative, sure, but any attempt to make it look transparent insults the readers' intelligence. As for bring back SPEED...It was simply crap, all eye candy. Basically autosalon's non-muralised cars in a magazine with a few pommy evo articles copied and pasted in for good measure. Or one issue of this trend, one issue of this one... Proofreading notably absent quite often and outrageously ridiculous numbers and descriptions with a lot of the cars. Wore rather thin after a few issues - I did buy it because if anything it was an aesthetically pleasing magazine, nice photos and glossy spreads thus a welcome addition to the coffee table, and John Bowe's column was great, but otherwise it had as much content as Bert Newton has hair.

Sounds like a fairly pointless comparison to me; no two dynos and no two dyno runs are exactly the same, IMHO the only before and after testing worth even using as an advisory figure is done on one dyno and one only. Anyway, 138rwkw is very average. My 17 year old redtop RB20, with a high rpm misfire and 10psi boost, stock except for a 3" cat back squeaked out 116rwkw. For an RB25DET to make 138rwkw with a rebuild and your mods something has to be seriously not right. Even a REALLY low reading dyno wouldn't account for that, IMO.

If you like it then do it. I think it looks like shit - thats my opinion. Its your car, please yourself, who the f#ck cares what I or any other anonymous username thinks?

I haven't seen one done, but I'm pretty certain matt black will look like shite; however satin black should look good....

Edit:amaterur mistake. Seems reasonable, encouraging result.

Well you're aiming in the wrong place. Thread is stupid. Stupid thread should be in wtb. Thread originator is ?????

And the water lines.

Oh yes? Interesting idea...

F#cking skyline engine bays..... My R31 coupe is like the tardis, but in reverse - it looks big but fark no, you can't get near anything. Generally speaking, if you can see something you can't get a tool anywhere near it; conversely if you can get a tool onto something, you normally can't see it. Removing/refitting the gearbox takes 3 feet of assorted extension bars, thats with the Gearbox mount dropped and the back of the box lowered... So, yeah, I'd hate to have to work on a GT-R! I figure by the time I can afford to own one of those, I can afford to pay to torture someone else have someone else perform mechanical work.

All I heard was "wah wah wah"

A 6.5" rim would measure close on 7.5" wide IF you measured across the outside faces, due to the bead and so forth. If they have measured across the outer faces and pinged you then they do not deserve to have a job as an inspector. I would also think that given the same basic hub design (in the rear at least) as the GT-R then there'd be no reason why you couldn't legitimately run at least 17x9".

Thanks for that!

Hi, would you be able to check up mine? vin: HR31-170504 model: KRR31RHFSD CN Thanks, Mark

About as stupid as the people that believe that article. Look at the picture, the katakana are fairly obviously written in texta; let alone the fact that a loose translation of the pictured text doesn't even appear to represent anything like what the caption describes. That entire website is a pisstake anyway.

Well, the style is kind of connected to the above- there aren't many loud and crazy looking factory built cars so they modify them - the name has stuck I think. Also referred to as "Yankee style" customisation.

I know you want to keep the L20, but what about a basic low-blow setup on a L28? Surely almost 50% more cubes would be useful in achieving your goal?

Road, dirt, street, race,two stroke, four stroke, singles, fours...Mucked about at some point everything from 1970's 2 stroke vintage MX bikes to GSXR1000 production superbikes; my dad used to own a large Kawasaki/Suzuki dealership and service/tuning centre in Victoria. We (mostly Dad!) raced/prepped bikes for thumpernats, state MX, state roadrace, national roadrace. My experience is that... Most roadies do seem to go fine on ULP or PULP, but for race applications and when you're running higher than stock compression sometimes we'd just go straight for the race fuels. Some of the ram air equipped roadies (ZX9R's especially) used to seem to need a dash of isopropyl alcohol to stop carbies icing up, all but fixed with the majority on injection now. And I think now most circuit racing requires non leaded pump fuels anyway doesn't it? Not to mention that since most bikes are jetted/run plugs suited to ULP/PULP, it takes tuning and mucking around with maps, jet kits, doing plug chops etc etc to get any small benefit on the road out of other fuel; not really worth it generally. BP100 is more than adequate for most race bikes, two strokes seem to run fine on ULP or sometimes PULP, however on older air cooled race bikes (especially two strokes) we found the race fuels were useful in reducing combustion temps hence temperature related seizing/pinging. We ran Powermist race fuels because we were able to backdoor it from Team Kawasaki Australia (who were running it in their 750cc superbikes and as I recall were backdooring theirs from Muzzy's in the USA, haha), and the bike it was being used in primarily tended to run quite hot ('97 KLX650R grasstrack MX bike with serious engine mods, i.e. 13.5:1 comp, carillo rod, wiseco forged piston, white bros custom cams, modded head and 65hp at the tyre, did over 200kmh at Finke, radared at 153kmh at Geelong thumpernats - in 4th!) the cooler burning fuel helped somewhat. Oh, and everything seems to hang together longer running motul oils; can't recall ever having a blowup on motul 2 stroke, and seemed to get better service life out of most 4 strokes with motul oils. Our 1981 2x4 Hilux shop hack with a tired 18R seemed to go noticeably better on BP100, in fact even when it had 2 stroke oil mixed in it, and on occasion seemed to like the Powermist Dynol832 - you find these things out when you run low on fuel and have a few drums of race fuel in the back, haha.

Its a shame group NC requires cars to have raced in Australia; imagine taking it up to the GTHOs, Mustangs, Toranas etc in a KPGC10 GT-R in full Japanese works style trim with the S20 screaming away..... Thats really a very interesting story, surely if there is any truth there would have to be some sort of records? Customs VIN number record (surely wouldn't have been shipped in CKD), Nissan Japan sales records/export records, SA motor registry records, Military records (military rego?). There has to be some sort of record of the thing.

Hi, would someone be able to check up mine? vin: HR31-170504 model: KRR31RHFSD CN

It was suggested that the martini fuel was in the region of $147.00/20lt or ~$7.35/litre , whereas optimax was $1.70/litre? More than 30 cents there surely. I see a pattern; I didn't mention OB except as an additive to the cheaper fuel. I did get my wires crossed there! I was comparing the cost/benefit ratio of spending 1.70/l + some octane booster, to spending $7.35/litre, for the average person who lets face it might need more than 95 ron but probably doesn't need full on race fuel. I also see Martini's website publishing extremely positive testing results from their own testing, reported by a magazine they advertise in! Excuse me for being a sceptic.... The test I referred to was 98 vs M110, not the OB test, and FWIW I think the article makes it fairly clear if you read between the lines that there wasn't a magic 50rwkw in the fuel, more in a decent tune anyway.... As for 95+OB, likely to only see results around the same quality as straight 98 - and I'd have thought a decent OB would cost somewhat more than 30c/litre? I can see its simpler than buying drums though Out of 270 views and 24 replies it seems your the only person who has used the fuel No, afraid I haven't, really only ever stuck to BP100, Elf, methanol on occasion and when available have run Powermist T112/T10/Dynol 832/TO137 (powermist fuel is a bit exotic though)... No to most of the above I'm afraid. Well, haven't with the car anyway, certainly tried running a fair few different fuels in our racebikes over the years. I'll admit I'm new to what fuels work best in a turbo application, and thusfar I'd just stick to what has been shown to work. As for OBs I'd always tune for the fuel, not for an additive- too risky IMO - anyway, I was only playing devil's advocate mentioning their use Absolutely true, no argument here. I'm sorry if it seemed unduly antagonistic, that wasn't really the idea. Just wanted to spark some debate/verification instead of every 2nd post being "buy martini its great I can get it"; if you follow my drift (so to speak).

Ahahaha...R&D....Pedders....I wouldn't put those terms in the same sentence. I'd maybe use them for bushes and balljoints and so forth, never for actual critical suspension components. I had a full pedders sportsrider package in my old R31; undersprung, overdamped in initial bump, underdamped for mid stroke and bottoming resistance, too slow in rebound... Absolutely terrible, car crashed over the top of small bumps, slammed throught the travel on larger ones, couldn't react quickly for undulations in the road (i.e. where the surface dips after a bump it would hang a wheel in the air), turned in nicely enough but then flopped into mid corner roll understeer/scary roll oversteer... In short very very badly put together package. I would never put their off the shelf dampers and springs anywhere near a car of mine that I wanted to handle. Bear in mind too that you really won't get any handling advantage out of just lowered off the shelf springs; they are just stiff enough to maintain travel at the lower rideheight comparable to stock and really won't induce any useful improvement. Coilovers are cheap enough new that its hardly worth buying secondhand, and definitely not worth dropping ~750 or so on non adjustable monroe/pedders/gabriel crap.

I guess you must be aware its difficult for you to post without it seeming that you are just pushing your vested interest... Wouldn't waste your money..... I would wager that given optimax is less than 25% of the price then Martini or Sunoco would need to be 4 times as good to make it worthwhile, or hey lets pretend you use optimax and a very expensive octane booster, then I'd like to see verifiable results that you get twice as much "performance" from the Martini stuff. I bet theres no real way to back even the second statement - the pissweak 98 vs M110 comparo test on the website was done with a completely different tune...... Pricing is conspicuously absent from your postings and from the comparos too. Its one thing to say x product has awesome performance, but surely most people would weigh it against it being 4 times as expensive! All I'm saying folks is that there are lots of race fuels around, don't just buy one because its new or lots of people are suddenly praising it.....

Is this the one Nisspares owned ages ago?

I would love to see his evidence to back his claims.

Name: Mark Location:Hobart area Job:Coles Kingston night fill / Student (Bachelor of Teaching) Car:1988 HR31 Skyline GTS coupe Mods: -3" Exhaust, "free-flow" cat convertor -VG20DET turbo -Turbosmart bleeder, 12psi Pretty stock otherwise, but will receive some more mild tweaks soon. Major plans are coilovers, some old school rims from Japan, some more mechanical tweaking. Ignore the maximum gheyness nismo sticker and boganlord pinstripes, all gone now, small R31house (Japan) logo in place instead.