floody

R33 GTS-T or R32 GT-R Front calipers please! PM me. South of state best. Like them to be in usable (i.e. bolt on with new pads and drive) condition.

I couldn't find a rear brake spec for the C34. I have a series 1 RS4 which just broke one of the pins in the left rear caliper (appears it was probably seized for some time). I need to replace a rear caliper or both to get it on the road again ASAP and I have a pair of R32 GT-R rear calipers sitting on the shelf doing nothing. Any ideas whether they'd be a straight fit and if it would be a big issue with the stock front brakes?

Got one! Cheers.

This intercooler has been sold for almost three years, apologies for any confusion.

Any other pumps drop in, i.e. GT-R pump?

Have 235/40R18 now so 245s are barely worth changing to. I do suspect I would notice the increase in front end grip with 265s. Thanks Zorro, sounds like it will be a pretty safe option as I should have 10mm or so more clearance to the guard.

Need a functioning (e.g. all gauges and trip/odo functional) series 1 instrument cluster, presumably from an RS4. Need one very soon as mine is in its death throes so please PM if you have one available.

Looking at upping tyre size on ours (along with a few other things), reckon 18x9 +20 with 265/35R18s will work under an S1 stag, without flaring? Can lip guards, happy to fit camber arms etc if need be.

Wonder if an R33 GT-R lip is close-ish? Chris, your best shot straight up would be sourcing a series 1 Dayz/late series 1 kit, which would get the same front bar, skirts, rear bar (minus the black lip) as SWAGON there.

Could you get the dude back to run the guard roller a bit further round the arch? They just look munted man.

What's the problem with the function of the majority of coilovers Ray?

Just this old bucket This other older bucket And this newish whip

My version of FAST is quite old so these may be OOP or superseded by now: G3810-0V000 VISOR-ROOF RH G3811-0V000 VISOR-ROOF LH K1750-0V000 VISOR-SUNROOF (this is a lip in the same rosy plastic for the front sunroof...wouldn't mind one)

Got one local, sorted it out! Thanks everyone.

Randomly losing power or cutting out completely, at times stalls on return to idle, occasionally won't rev over 2500rpm, its totally intermittent and impossible to provoke. Might go days with no issue or do it every 5 times in 1 block, under load, off load, hot, cold etc. Connector/loom look fine. Daryl, I'll be in touch soon if I can't get anything more local.

+1 To this!

Looking for a series 2 R33 RB25DET AFM, need one asap in south of state. Must be a good one! PM or txt to zero four four nine seven six eight two eight five.

Just saw this in northern suburbs?!

Will be sunk as f#ck in the front. I have S1 auto (thought all the auto awd cradles are the same though?) 18x9" +20 and 235/40R18s, doesn't rub anything anywhere. Rear same sizes, does touch un-lipped guard (on extremes of compression) but will clear by miles with a guard roll. IMO you'd be better off with the 18x8.5 +33 all round out of the sizes you suggest.

Ok to clarify. I have an S1, so its not a NEO, but I think thats academic. Either way it will get a manual box, and will have coilovers, bigger brakes. So purely talking about the engine and attached bits. My thinking is with the same budget I can either add a lot of high end bolt ons to the RB25, i.e. turbo, injectors, front facing plenum, ecu etc and do a manual swap, or pick up a bargain RB26 halfcut/parts car, give it a quick freshen and install it pretty much stock standard. So, basically, choice is between mild bolt on RB25 (low mount turbo, good ecu, injectors, plenum, exhaust, maybe cams) or fresh, near stock RB26 (maybe with N1s or similar, probably Power FC). End of the day want something responsive and fuss free, for day to day use - this is why I like the RB26 mostly OEM route - but I gather I should be able to see the same results from the RB25 then with a good turbo and choice of tuner. It just strikes me I may be able to sink more into good supporting mods with the RB25 compared to RB26. Mid 200s to 300kw would be plenty. Am I on the right track?

After some experience here, looking at ploughing some time and money into our S1 Dayz this year. Two dominant options are: -Keep RB25, do some bolt ons (i.e. turbo, intercooler, exhaust, injectors, ecu), manual swap, bigger brakes. -Buy RB26 front cut or smashed R33 GT-R, swap in engine, box, brakes, freshen up (i.e. pumps, gaskets etc), dumps and exhaust, but otherwise keep mostly stock. What's going to be better bang for buck for similar dollars, mild bolt on RB25 or near-stock R33 RB26? Goes without saying would do coilovers etc at same time. Of course there is 'just buy a 260RS' but I am more keen to stick with the devil I know.

S1 or S2 RB25 AFM?

If you want to tow, buy a car designed for the job. Hint: It won't be sporty and Japanese.

Aha, missed the M35 bit in your profile. Well, will I make some enquiries? I wouldn't mind the deflector for the front sunroof in matching rosey tint either.

I would buy a new pair. I believe they were still available ex-Japan recently...perhaps get someone like Kudos Motorsport (great bloke!), Justjap, KDS Parts etc onto it? Question; My clips on both sides just seem to be...clips? I couldn't see any plastic nuts.