floody

Circuit drift

my thoughts are that out of those cars, the silvia or N14 you get for 8k will be pretty much a heap of shit (I'm not 100% sure on the N14 though), and guaranteed to have been thrashed. The Lancers are gutless with shithouse build quality. The celicas are kinda comfy but hell boring. I'd look at aussie delivered R31s (not the imports) in that price range. Get a 1989/90/91 model manual and you'd have a reasonably quick, efficient and comfy car, with some space, good handling and rwd. You could probably find the "silhouette" model for your money which means LSD, 15" mags and a sporty interior. Theres even one guy selling an aussie GTS (not to be confused with the jap one) on here for $8500, those cars were built by Nissan's special vehicles division and had bilstein suspension, the LSD, a different body kit, 16" mags, sporty interior with a momo wheel, and an extra 20 or so KW over the basic one. They are acknowledged as one of the most refined and best handling sedans to come out of the 80's. They built two different series (the car had a bodywork facelift hence second one), the first is white on white 16" rims, the second one was red on white 16" wheels and a more aggressive kit (and some extra power). They only built 200 of each, but parts are common to the basic ones so thats no problem. My one gets 8l/100kms if you are careful and 10-13l/100 if you cane it. just an idea. cheers, floody

Ha, my PC crashed in my last post.... anyway to recap ...cue timewarp wavy screen .... I just watched the qualifier event the yanks had before d1 AND..... OMIGOD!!! that is some of the most unbelievably shithouse driving (I wouldn't go as far as calling it drifting!!!!) There was more understeer than anything else.... the yanks seem to think they are "fully sick drift kings bro", but the complete opposite seems to be true. For examples check out drift tengoku vol.14. at least the Japs they brought out there would help a bit to make it worth seeing. I wonder how long it will be before some kind of national drift comp series gets going here? cheers, floody

You have 2 emails!!

Haha right, a decent, manual series 3 for 3k? good luck. email me at the above address if you want more info. I'm not desperate to sell it though, I am somewhat negotiable, within reason- I'm not giving it away. If it doesn't sell I'll just throw the sports suspension (1k worth) and manual box (1500 or so for the conversion) into a cheap auto one, and cash the rego in to register the other one for 12 months. cheers, floody

Umm how about you take your whoring to another state's area...God, if it wasn't enough having all the bloody yuppies buying property in Hobart, now you rugby-loving retards from the North are taking over our forum section..... :shake: cheers, floody

I'm trying to work out a way to fit a 1986-early 88 RB20DET NICS or redtop ECCS engine from a HR31 coupe to my 12/88 build (hence ADR 37/00) aus delivered car. The problem is for it to be legal I have to show eveidence that the NICS/ECCS RB20DET complies with ADR37 (1st July 1988). Basically I need emissions testing data for the NICS/redtop ECCS engines, to show they can comply with the 1989 emissions rules. The HR31's have only been in 15+ importing for 2 years, plenty came in before that, so somebody had to have tested them for compliance, surely? Does anybody remember which importers held compliance plate approval for these models? I need the emissions testing data. Yes I COULD use a HCR32 RB20DET, but if I get a HR31 halfcut I also get some panels I need, I get projector headlights (and associated wiring), and I get struts/hubs/brakes that are bigger and compatible with 100mm caliper bolt spacing (e.g GTS-T type M four spots), so I would knock over a large amount of important mods in one cheap hit. cheers, floody

Bump! This would be a very cheap, tidy 5 speed R31, the damage is COSMETIC ONLY. Mechanically sound, and as stated above has sports suspension AND mag wheels. Well maintained and serviced, recent cambelt change. PM or email or phone me at the contacts in the above post. cheers, floody

From what I've seen of the way people drove that car, if there is nothing wrong now, its only a matter of time.....

Fair enough. I still disagree that it would be worth doing, but you have your reasons, I have mine!

1989 R31 skyline, 5 speed, light front damage Looking for expressions of interest, I've got a 1989 series 3 GX 5 speed sedan, Silver, 246000kms (serviced about 2000kms ago, inc new cam belt, oil, filter etc). Interior is tidy and original, as is (most of) the exterior. Mechanically sound, has some lifter noise, but nothing to worry about. Had new brake pads in February last year. The car is currently in Hobart, Tasmania. It has had a light smack in the nose, chassis/frame/suspension etc is all straight, just cosmetic damage. It will need: - complete front bumper, -left headlight, -left guard - garnish panel - slight repair to left hand corner of the bonnet (very slight damage), - repairs to the inner guard where the mudguard bolts up. Quoted about $850 for parts with a secondhand light and guard. Not sure on paint. The car also has: -pedders sportsrider shocks and springs, lowered 30mm -15" CSA hornet mag wheels and 195 GT radial tyres - pioneer speakers (but head unit was stolen). -Air conditioning (regassed 2002) -Power steer (all connections checked and replaced jan 2002) I fitted a few new interior parts at the start of last year, like brand new sunvisor, clips around lock buttons etc. All hoses, thermostat, belts were replaced with Genuine Nissan parts when I got it at the beginning of 2002. (and the car came off the road in November 02). Also the instruments were all checked, recalibrated and serviced when I got it (as I had heard they have instrument trouble)Currently has 12 months of Victorian rego. Car has been Garaged since November last year. I don't have any pics yet but I will try and arrange some. I'll be really sad to see it go, its been a great car, but I don't have the time or facilities to repair it, and my girlfirend is getting a new car so I need the space . If people are genuinely intersted, I'll get some pics together. Make me an offer. Looking for around $3000 cheers, Mark Flood. mflood@utas.edu.au or 0409534156 or PM me here.

I just watched the qualifier event the yanks had before the D1

Pics/price to mflood@utas.edu.au what 'burb of HObart are you in? if its the red 180 I reckon I've seen it round South Hobart a few times thankyou!

Light tap in the nose, no chassis damage, needs a front bar, left guard, left light and some sheetmetal on the inner guard where the guard panel mounts up straightened,and a tiny bit of straightening on about 1" of the left bonnet corner (it folded down the lip on the edge) plus paint. It drives and handles fine, no different to before the accident (ie quite good). But I just can't be stuffed fixing it ATM, so I think I might sell up. cheers, floody

So can you use the 4AGZE pistons in an RB24 or not? is the deck height, piston pin diamete, skirt length etc all correct? Do they need to be flycut so they don't hit the valves? CR? cheers, floody

You're wrong bout the Gibson Bluey, have you seen pics of the rear end? its all chromoly tube, rose joints etc etc. The only resemblance it has to the overseas rear end is that its IRS, and its (basically) a trailing arm setup. Beyond that there is almost no factory nissan Bluebird parts in that back end. I seriously see no point in doing that to a bluebird? What would it achieve? cheers, floody

I'd second that, maybe actually a bit quicker. I've had mine waaaay off the clock a couple of times. considering its doing 2500 RPM at 110 in top, then wound out at 6000rpm what would that be?On the numbers thats 264kmh, but I reckon given (a complete lack of) aerodynamics, clutch slip, tyre flex etc etc, its probably around 230-35, maybe a bit less. Could be wrong. and still pulling, I might add, but I buttoned off. Irresponsible and wrong to do for sure, but I was on my own, no traffic round, 30+ kms from civilization. Not bad for an old n/a pos....RB20DET would make for some fun... cheers, floody

Lets see here. Ok, I retract the moron comment, you may well be a very smart, if not overly responsible person. That speedo is an R31HOUSE 280kmh cluster. It is photoshopped from a picture of the car standing still, with the speedo resting on 0. I thought it looked cool. Also, such a speed is only illegal if done in a speed restricted area, not say in NT or at an airstrip or circuit or something. I have NEVER exceeded the speedlimit by 100% in a 50kmh residential area. I have sped in the past, However we are talking multiple kilometer stretches of straight, flat, empty country black top. I have probably sped slightly round town, perhaps by 10kmh, not by 56kmh over,but I have managed not to do it where a camera was. Either way yeah, certainly socially irresponsible. I am a lucky hypocrite I suppose... My 89 sedan may not be anything special, but I can hit that speed (100 ish) in about 8.5 seconds, so there would be plenty of room if I chose to do that. There is an industrial area where I have tested these things, an 80 zone though, and no traffic, oh and its 4 lanes wide with excellent visibility and no cross streets. Other than that, the only time I've ever done those speeds is a) on the highway, B) on the track c) On country back roads (empty, straight and 100 zoned). The thing is, "person", unlike you I would cop it if I did the wrong thing and there was no reason why I should get away with it, instead of wasting everyones time. cheers, floody

God, you people DO NOT GET IT, do you? Whether its safe to do the speed or not is irrelevant to the charge, but 106 in a city is wrong, no matter how you play it. Its a 50 zone. He did double the speed. Now he wants to get away with it? Stuff that. I am simply amazed so many morons support their brethren to take this to court. Its a waste of court time, tax payes money,someone who just is too immature to take it on the chin. cheers, floody

What size are the simmons? if they are 15s I might be interested in them. Just got a $2000 quote for my body damage though might have to set the RB20 plans back a fair while methinks! cheers, floody

For the money it would cost, the only benefit I see would be getting an R200 diff and LSD, rather than the crappy BW diff in the aussie R31. But really, it wouldn't be worth it. The amount of work and stuffing around, its not worth it, be better off buying an import instead. There are plenty of things to do with the rigid axle rear end to make it handle, its just nobody has really done them! AE86 is a live axle, so are V8 supercars etc. cheers, floody

Thought I did! Umm which bit are you having trouble with? cheers, floody

Measuring is fairly easy. The distance you need is from the centre of the rim's width, to the hub face (the round flat back bit of the rim that mates to the brake disk/hub). It is hard to get a totally exact figure, but roughly it goes like this. Get your rim width in mm e.g 7x25.4. Divide it by There are 2 ways to measure the distance from hub to centre. A) sit wheel flat on its face on a smooth level surface and measure from the surface up to the flat of the hub face, accounting for tyre overhang, and then deduct the measurement from 1/2 the rim width. B) measure from hub face to back of rim, deduct half rim width from the total figure (hub to backside of rim). Hopefully one of those will give you an idea. Cheers, floody

Stock R33 GTS wheels are a numerically higher offset than R32 GT-R wheels, and so will sit in further because the distance from the CENTRELINE of the rim to the THE HUB FACE (flat bit that mates to the hub/disk) is further. GT-r wheels are what, 16x8" and +30 offset, where the others are 16x6.5? and more like +35-38 offset (can't remember exactly) So they are narrower, and the flat bit is further toward the outside, so when you bolt them on they will be a long way further in, I'd guess what, 1.75" or so? Lower the offset number, the further they stick out, higher the number the closer inside. I think Most of the GT-R rims are about the same offset its just widths that change. R34 rims are what, 18x9"?and about the same offset as the GT-R rims. I think they'd just fit , but you'll just have to try them on I guess. cheers, floody

True thing Nismoid, I'm just used to the bizarre handling of the old datsun IRS at 9/10ths you know, all that tucking under and huge camber change.....I thought the HR31s were basically the same design? Ok, maybe "step backwards" is a little over the top, I just reckon there is plenty of development left in the live axle. It will never be quite as good on a REALLY bumpy road, and it will always mean more unsprung weight but there are plusses like constant camber and contact patch etc. And I think there is stuff all in it for circuit use anyway. A proper double wishbone IRS would definitely be step forward, not going to happen though. I haven't driven a HR31, so I'm just guessing at how they handle form all the other old nissans I've been in. So I'm probably wrong cheers, floody