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floody

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Everything posted by floody

  1. If its just looks you are worried about, I'd get rid of the two trailing vents at the back either side of the main one, but really, it looks fine to me, mostly functional. I definitely would NOT get rid of the one that feeds to the air intake, thats a great idea-a cold air filter that avoids 90% of the problems people have with the low mount (e.g inner guard/under front bar) ones. I like it the way it is. cheers, floody
  2. Dominos are normally pretty quick, I don't like their hawaiian much though....
  3. That shouldn't be a loophole. He should still be accountable. Was the other business name registered as bankrupt or something? I would say you can get the money, but it won't be quick, you'll want a good lawyer (e.g better than his) and it WILL cost you. cheers, floody
  4. A guy was "lapping" and dragging as all the P-platers seem to do here in Hobart on Wednesday, and (I'm guessing) was doing the "royal flyby" in his T-18 shitbox, in the centre of town, in a 50 zone, over 100kmh, down the wrong lane and directly through a red light and into a 50 year old blokes car going through the green. The old bloke was killed. The 2 p-platers were still alive last I heard. I hope they get bent over by the cops on this, if they live. Could have been the same thing with this farkstick. cheers, floody
  5. Hmm not much at that price range. The clutch type LSD in the silhouette/GTS is prone to wear, thats about all I've heard problems wise. You could get an earlyish XR6 LSD, or one from a VL turbo, or some of the V8 commos or falcons. All the LSD centres from BW/BTR78 series diffs should fit. There is a company called http://www.4wdsystems.com.au who make a diff centre for the BW/BTR 78 diff called a "LOKKA" . It isn't an LSD as such, it either locks or unlocks (no degrees of torque split like an LSD) dependent on power/cornering etc. Read more on their site. Basically its like a detroit locker (in function, if not operational principle) but quieter. Should be about 650 or thereabouts for the centre, new. cheers, floody
  6. It would be a good idea to edit the company name out of your posts guys, even though your beef seems to be legit, and perhaps inform people who the specific company is by PM or similar. It is a bad idea to openly slag companies off in a public forum, whether or not you have been burnt by them-I would guarantee the Forum owner does not want a lawsuit. cheers, floody
  7. Yes, as long as you are talking about the live axle Borg warner 78 series diff LSD (as in skyline silhouette/SVD GTS1-2, open centre in all other aussie skylines), then that is a straight fit replacement centre in a skyline diff. I don't think it will fit a pintara diff, they have different axle splines. The japanese HR31 models have IRS, and their differentials are completely incompatible with the aussie live axle rear end. I hope that helps. cheers, floody cheers, floody
  8. You may as well keep it, you've had it for 5 years? Resale will be absolutely terrible compared to the original purchase price. I mean the R33 prices would have lost more than 50% in the last 5 years (I can remember GTS-T's for close on 40k....now they can be had for like 17k), plus its a 4 door, and non turbo- there would be jack all demand for that model so you would end up having to sell it far too cheaply. Keep it. Out of interest, it is the RB25DE model, not an rb20e or anything? Auto or manual? Anyway, if you didn't want to spend tooo much cash, you could fit a pod-type air filter and heatshield, and some extractors and a nice 2.5" exhaust system with a jap style muffler. Some good sports brake pads would probably not go astray. cheers, floody
  9. They should be damn fast- they were a race homologation special, running a bigger intercooler, bigger turbo etc than the GTS model. I think they made about 210ps (?) standard, would make a lot more with some mild mods... Nismoid's car is mad, of course he has a RB25DET in his...... cheers, floody
  10. It will more than likely be a L20B datsun motor. Are the carby/intake and Exhaust bolted to the same side of the motor? is the whole engine canted over to one side? if so its an L series. This engine model is one of the worlds most popular engines to tune, and there are good gains to be had. Twin 45mm weber carburettors (tuned properly), good extractors and a 2.25 exhaust, combined with a good cam (maybe from datrally or someone like that) and heavy valvesprings would really make the thing haul. Fuel consumption won't be too flash though. cheers, floody
  11. Not sure what model supra you are talking about, but with most of them hovering near 1600kg, then 168kw would easily be legal. And, Akeenan, well ok then, if the insurance companies and cops are in agreement with you, well, I concede defeat, so sorry If I offended you, but, well, to be frank I smelt bullshit-must have been the wind direction cheers, floody
  12. dyno sheets are all well and good, but any cop I've spoken to says the rules refer to (flywheel)power to weight. I understand you can extrapolate flywheel power from rear wheel power, however it is far from accurate- in fact I'd go so far as to say its too inaccurate for the police. I don't think driving the car in a bad state of tune is going to cut the mustard, even if it is dynoed at that power level. And for the thread starter, for anyone just old enough to get their license, unless you have extensive motorsport experience or something, a 185kw car is a BAD thing. On the other hand, yeah get it, when you smash it I'll buy the front cut from your grieving parents . cheers, floody
  13. NVMYXL is the most annoying I'd seen, on a lame arsed purple excel 4 door, oh and SPOOLN on a crappy TX3 laser....... cheers, floody
  14. Until recently my family owned a Kawasaki/suzuki dealership in Ballarat called "Hard On motorcycles", so we had HARDON H4RDON and HARD1 at various times on cars ranging from a HZ ute to a dirty old 81 hilux SR5 2wd ute, HiAces etc... Goddamn, everyone ripped our business name, like that shit band.... cheers, floody
  15. Ok, so when the cops fine you, you just run the car to the RTA's handy weighbridge and engine dyno, after they remove, test and refit your engine and set the car up to factory weight you get off? Bullshit mate. I'm not talking about proving it to some dumbarse jobsworth at the insurance company call centre, I am talking about the legality of it. And with insurance, my thoughts would run to If the cops told the insurance company your car exceeded the regulations if you were in a decent accident, who do you reckon they'd believe? For insurance I'll give you the benefit of the doubt, but no way would driving that car be legal under the power:weight rules. Maybe you have a very very relaxed insurer. Good luck in the event of a crash. cheers, floody
  16. It is factory weight, factory power. No GTS-T is legal in victoria. You can't turn the power down, or add weight, thats bullshit. it doesn't work like that. cheers, floody
  17. Jaustech did an RB20DET conversion in a jap R30 coupe, I'd say the engine bay was the same (it had an L series originally as well)Try emailing them http://www.jaustech.com.au cheers, floody
  18. 3.2 litres, is that just an over bore or is the crank offset ground as well? What size pistons/bore size is used for this? cheers, floody
  19. I wouldn't really consider buying the car unitl I had driven it - and I wouldn't want to have to put down a sizeble deposit just to test drive it. Up to you mate, both arguments have their merits. But, an example for ya, a yard here had a '90 MX5. Obviously freshly shipped to tassie from the melb austions......Anyway, wanted a test drive-"nah mate, no insurance-and we have had heaps of enquiries anyway " anyway, this was in september last year- It went to another yard, but I spoke to someone who tried to test drive it in april-same story, though this is an older bloke.... Do you want to be stuck with it that long? I'd say let 'em test drive it, but play it by ear, use some judgement in who you let drive. cheers, floody
  20. Buy a second hand HR31 GTS-X for about 6k,they're out there, then go modding. Good value car, podiums in the last two JMS events.... cheers, floody
  21. The main purpose would be circuit sprinting, trackdays, and as my daily driver. Trafiic doesn't stress me too much-I'm in Hobart The latest option thats cropped up is an ECCS rb20 head, as I can get a whole blown up rb20det for $200. I understand there are some oil and coolant passage issues? obviously the rb25 top end would be better, but this is very cheap. Can it be mated to the rb30 block? The tommy kaira M30 (HR31) ran the rb20 head/rb30 export block setup, right? cheers, floody
  22. Haha, nah its cool... I must have looked the other way or something- because I was thinking "hmmm dammit, wheres that gts-t". You know most people were pretty slow up there, I've been up that road in a '77 corolla that would have threatened the times of half the field... I guess it was the last stage of the day, and one notorious for accidents, so people were cruising. But its surprising, watching folks jumping on the anchors where you normally pull another gear...normally folks in porsches..... Anyway, good work, we'll be watching better next year!! cheers, floody
  23. Hey Targa Tom, I missed your car on the stage I was at, Ridgeway Hillclimb on Friday. What number were you?
  24. Yeah, problem with plenums is that its not the gt-r plenum I'm interested in, so much as the six throttle setup. The only reason I like the GT-r plenum is because its a nice simple design, and suited to having a very direct air feed from a filter mounted in place of the battery. I guess it would be a fair suggestion to just do an rb30de, but then again, it seems a rb25 bottom end would be more free revving. I can't really decide, but given the fact the rb25de bottom end could probably be left pretty well untouched (the machining I was considering seems pretty crap for $:results ), with the main concern being breathing and cams, The rb25de would be cheaper by far (e.g not having to rebuild the bottom end). So basically, the dilemma is go the rb25 and get more RPM, or go the rb30 and get more torque. I think either would work just as well, and the problem with the rb30 is I'd basically have to buy an rb25 anyway so it gets a bit more expensive. I'm leaing towards an RB25, just on price and the relative newness of its internals. cheers, floody
  25. Triple DCOE manifold for a rb25de? anyone? cheers, floody
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