floody

Yeah fair enough, but seriously, drive a decent NA bottom end RB30E+T setup and see what you think. Torque and response is awesome. Free is good though definitely.

I wouldn't bother with any of that engine stuff. You might make 10kw over the stock 85kw or so at the treads, wheee! Same money, less effort get a VL turbo manifold, hi flow T03, set of VL turbo or RB20DET redtop injectors, cheap intercooler, 3" exhaust and darkhalf chipped ecu (see 31 forums), and you'll make 150+rwkw on sfa boost. I suppose being NA and making 95rwkw is different though.

Great paint! Looks really good, but the shaved strips take away from it a bit. If you keep it an S3 bonnet/grille/lights would top it off.

FFS, man up and buy them Brad!

Sounds like you expected more from a 'solution' that barely does anything? IMO Toe would have been more likely to cause the wear than the piddly amount of camber it had stock anyway, and it looks as if that was corrected when the camber bushes were fitted?

Apex'i Hybrid R32 GTS-T intercooler kit. Its return flow, uses stock piping in the engine bay and should fit behind stock front bar with minimal hacking (although I haven't fitted it on an R32 to check). I bought it to mod for my HR31 but found I wouldn't be able to use it and retain the electric front spoiler so have decided not to. Its unmolested and original, has a few damaged fins on the backside but is in good overall condition. Piping is very lightweight, includes all joiners, clamps and brackets. Clean inside, minimal oil buildup etc. Images are from when I bought it but it looks no different now. After $400+post.

Chasing a tidy set of RB20DET exhaust manifold heatshields, don't mind grubby/pitted etc but preferably minimal cracks and splits.

I've got an old Apex'i Hybrid turn flow cooler kit for a R32 GTS-T here. I bought it to trial on my HR31 and the automatic spoiler motors get in the way, so I want to sell it as I wish to retain the use of the autospoiler. Kit includes pipes, joiners, clamps and brackets to mount the core. Core is in good condition mostly with some damaged fins on the rear, but as far as we can tell no leaks. Very light, nice quality kit and direct bolt up for an R32; uses original engine bay piping, may require trimming plastic of front bar (unsure, haven't test fitted on 32 but thats what it came from). Looking for $400 or will swap for an R34 GT-T sidemount, pipes and duct. Also have a pair of S3 R31 headlights, one has been damaged where it bolts to the front filler panel but doesn't matter when its bolted up; $75/pair. Late model import GTS grille for S3 Skyline, white, has some hairline cracks and needs TLC but all in one piece, embossed with HR31 GTS logo. $50.

Might as well run 98 but I'd suggest in a pinch, 95 won't harm it.

Toyota do some good wagons. The late model Crown wagons in particular is awesome; kind of reminiscent of an S1 stag in some ways, many have the 1JZ-GTE. Like!

Pissing about with expensive, low gain mods will just hurt your wallet, and the resale as much as anything else. Without a turbo, it will always be slow. Nothing about NA RBs in general is conducive to good NA power, RB30Es are one of the worst of the lot. Heck, dollar for dollar an L28 will walk all over it.

Ok, will check that out. Its not a huge job, just a bit of PITA to do in the driveway, and a press would make it 100x easier to push out the old mounting bush sleeves. Yeah they're a lot different to R32/33/34 silvias etc; rear end is trailing arms ala 180B, subframe mounts by two big hollow rubber mounts, and HICAS consists of two short rams driven off the Power steer pump through an electronically controlled servo unit which move the entire rear end (subframe, diff, trailing arms, the lot) around 1.5-3 degrees by flexing the subframe around the two mounts. Diff is mounted to the chassis on a big rubber block and solid mounted to the subframe... Applying 80's tech to 60's tech rear end basically. I've removed the forward portion of lines, the electronic control unit, the servo unit and swapped to a single chamber pump and reservoir but still need to fit the solid bushes and remove the rams and hoses. The new solid mounts will lock the rear end up, eventually will get a urethane diff mount too to make it 100% solid.

Yeah I understand that coilovers can sometimes compromise space. Would be running in the region of 320-340mm eyebrow height (in comparison to the photo provided, by M I K E). The 31 coupe can satisfy my slammed to the ground urges. But basically I can run that size without massively molesting the guards, from what I see? OT...Anything special about those Nismo branded shocks? Thats what is on it now.

I'd say tyres a little below the guards, 50-60mm below stock. I don't mind running something like Tein Basics, or BCs, but I think beyond about 8kg/6kg would be out of the question. Minimal negative camber? pfft Not around here!

Last couple of bits of my mechanical puzzle sorted; subframe mounts arrived, and old skool Apex'i front mount kit not far off. Any ideas where in Hobart I can take the 31 to get the subframe mounts changed over and the Hicas lines and rams removed (run the length of the car, a lot easier on hoist)? Don't say pedders.

Aggressive is ok, long as I don't have to run 10kg coils like my other car to keep tyres off guards, lol! The other car (off topic)...

Well the other set of rims sold before we could grab them. Missus is keen on XT7s; 18x9.5" +20 with 225/40s should be alright with mild lipping ? (S1 Dayz)

Get all the codes anyway, theres a few avenues to try. Given the random Japan specific sh..stuff I can still get for my 21 year old HR31 new from Nissan, I'd be surprised if much of anything is NLA for the stags.

Keen to hear this one myself; mine is missing a couple of the screws. Also if you could come up with the P/N and description for the sideskirt endcap for a S1 Dayz, rear drivers side, it would be a godsend.

They're on yahoo, buy it now price of ¥15,800/$205 AUD. So I guess about $300 landed depending who you use.

I've been looking for clear indicators for a while; come up with U13 Altima ones occasionally, which we know fit, then this week found these ones from Dolphin: I like the LED look, and to me, they look like they will fit the stock bar. However, I'd like a second (third, fourth, more the merrier) opinion, as I see they're mounted in Dolphin's own front bar (or is it the OEM 260RS bar?) in the pics. Our car is a late S1 Dayz.

Should have mentioned, 18x8" +8, 18x9" +7, 225/40s all round, on a S1 stag. Would be happy to roll lips flat but baulk at flaring. Opinions?

31's driveable and seeing the odd short trip, lots of little jobs left though. Like paint/fit front bar, lip, roll and paint both rear quarters and paint both front guards; pull leaking front pipe off and get welded up ('perfect condition' secondhand BATMBL dump I bought for a fair amount of dough leaked from the word go around the wastegate pipe...), wheel align, solid subframe and diff mounts, and proper tune. But it goes, skids and sounds angry, haha.

Good luck. Expect to pay $400+ and they don't work as well as the regular ones.

Yeah you have to wonder really. Theres a misguided perception that they're heavier but in reality the difference is a massive 50kg (1370kg vs 1320kg); wow, 3.75% heavier. R33 is stiffer, wider, has a better motor, stronger gearbox, bigger brakes, more power, more torque... All on basically the same suspension layout which works fine for R32s. So given that a usable s1 is often cheaper than the now overpriced R32s, its weird you don't see more. Only reason I can think of is that plenty of 'drifters' are more into what is trendy.