floody

Is that the one with no wing and gold gravity gulflames?

How about 18 x 8 +8, 18 x 9 +7, 235/40s all round. Much guard pulling necessary?

Its almost completely pointless, a total waste of time and money. The throttle body is no restriction worth worrying about. It is also certainly not worth wasting money on as your first modification!

So what, are they $800 or $1000? What are the tyres like, brand, tread?

What part? I have 90% of a redtop ECCS here.

What a load of old tosh. 235s on a 9 is no stretch, its barely any tighter than a perfect 'square' fitment. The big sidewall protectors most modern tyres have makes them look as though they're pulled tighter than they are. There'll be no disadvantage to the handling there. Now, if he had 10s or wider...you might have had something to carp about.

Paul (and anyone else) just FYI, Exedy's listing is a little inaccurate re R31s; import HR31s with original RB20DET and box run a 225mm clutch, unlike the 240mm one on all the later turbo RBs, so unfortunately it won't fit those (except maybe the GTS-R). I run the 225mm version of the clutch and can attest that as organic, full face clutches go this is as close to abuseproof as you can get.

Stock airbox? I'll take it if you're down south end of Tassie.

I think they all saw you coming and its no coincidence that they're all encouraging this bullshit fantasy build at your expense. Misplaced faith I'd say. 500rwkw is a lot of power. That is bleeding edge stuff, similar to what some of the best big single turbo, race engine RB26s do. I think you'll find that its not going to happen for $30k either. Had any thoughts about the gearbox, diff, driveshafts, brakes, wheels and rubber you'll need to contain that 500rwkw? Cams and 200cc aren't actually going to make an enormous difference.

Just after a few things, our stag has a HKS actuator for some reason (even though its cranked down to 10psi) and a shoddy old M's pod I want to ditch, and the BOV seems to be leaking. Thus, I want a stock R33/Stag airbox, stock R33/stag wastegate actuator and a functional stock BOV. PM me if you've got anything.

There is a problem with the law? What part do we need to change? Never had an issue. Frankly MLcrisis that post is a massive load of old tosh. And all you will get is 'I drive a ful sik import and I'm targetted by da pigzzzz!!!!" along with "I was doin nuffin just a little chirp/just razzing the otha guy to da speed limit/was doin nuffin, just cruisin wif me cuz/coppas defect me all the time for nuffin/they see a young bloke in an import and they're jealous/why don't they arrest some murderers or something" and other BS, because the whiners are the ones who deserve it generally.

Nice manifolds. Theres some really nice RB gear out of the states. 6Boost ones are great when you finally get one and once its made to fit the engine. I wish I could afford an R31house Takoashi Project manifold and T04E Pro-T for my 31...But at $4,500+ for the bare manifold...nah. DR30 FJ20ET kit..

Doh was thinking S1 stag. But neo is ignitor on plug anyway yes? so unless the ignitors have all failed...unlikely.

Fresh(er) RB20DET (from R32) fitted, GT-R injectors, AFM and Nistune...injector o-rings leaking so back apart to fix those, blanked off knackered cold start regulator. Need to get wideband on to start tuning it as currently it just idles at about 2500rpm and dies when you touch the throttle. Also chucked in 3" split dump/front pipe, all redtop covers on silvertop RB20, ISC 10/8kg S13 coilovers, 17x9/17x10 meisters and waiting on my rotors to be redrilled so I can chuck my R33 4 pots on the front. 11 row greddy-copy oil cooler kit to go on. Still need a shifter as mine went walkabout while the car was stored at a certain workshop which is now defunct... Also yet to order front mount and new front bar, but will be soon.

Stag motor is S2 R33 yes? So ignitor on coil, unlikely thats the cause.

You've got a peaky 2.5l six with what, 150ish kw, sfa torque and an AUTO. Its not going to light up the tyres off the line, get your hand off it pal.

Can I dick the cold start valve completely from an RB20DET without too much issue? I'm running an R32 motor with the full electronics and plenum top from a late HR31, and the cold start valve is now in the wrong place, difficult to plumb up, and I feel superfluous to needs. I am running nistune so can play with idle mixtures in the ecu. In point of fact its always had a dicky connector and has been disconnected for weeks and months at a time with little discernible difference previously. Thoughts? I will remove it and cap both connections most likely, probably remove the T-piece that runs back to the crossover pipe completely.

Just wondering where the hose that comes off the firewall end of the fuel rail runs to? Is it vacuum or to the charcoal canister?

Meh, they've been in and out of it for 40 years. They'll be back

Nissans built in igniter coil setup is brilliantly reliable! I like how the sub 10 year old coilpacks in the stagea (and most RB25DETs sooner or later) were completely, utterly rooted, and yet the 20 year old ones in the 31 power on. Really sounds like too much air and typical mega rich fuelling and retarded ignition. Shouldn't be the fuel pump but you could check it. Any sort of boost mods? Piss off the wank valve and put the stock one on too. Get fuel pressure, flow checked BEFORE it goes on the dyno, an unsympathetic (read: most) operator could well kill the thing under dyno conditions if its fuelling, and it starts pinging. .8 gap will certainly be better, and throw away the platinums next time, just get the correct heat rating coppers for a fraction of the price and just as good performance. Don't let your mechanic sell you crap like platinums or iridiums, its just to make them cash. Anyway, diagnosing problems over the net is like giving a haircut over the phone.

Thats right, grownups generally are the ones those cars are marketed at.

I don't see any irony there. I harbour no animosity to more modern cars because I drive a noisey old banger (from 1988, developed in 1985, which if anything owes a lot to the early 80s); but some people hate that their sainted skylines just can't and don't do things as easy as more modern, more developed machines. Its just like the fact that our C34 Stagea "family wagon" would leave the "pinnacle-of-nissans-sports-sedans-of-its-time" HR31 for dead, thats progress baby, and then an NM35 Axis would crap on the old stag from a great height.

I gather people are just jealous of the possibility of 422kw big cube Holdens which are/have... -close to legal/legal -reliable -factory style driveability -factory style NVH -modern build -modern comforts, modern ergonomics -warranty -dealer backup versus 10 year old ~200kw skylines which are noisy, rough, often backyarder tuned with accompanying driveability, have significant systems non-functional or disabled, feel like they belong in the 90s, etc. Less cubes, more cams and turbos as it happens, do not maketh the modern car.

Well if he can't spell diesel, odds on he couldn't read it, hence at least part of the predicament.

Yeah...Nah.