magmazin

Ok, I agree on not going cheap, but come on now check this out Used HKS Ex manifolds and dump pipes $1000+$135shipping=$1135 plus another say $500(incl shipping) for a used HKS collector that comes out to around $1635. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Twin-HKS-Ma...076417391QQrdZ1 Now I am not trying to promote inexpensive items but check these out $99 for dump pipes http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/GTR-RB26-DE...077008582QQrdZ1 Then another $145 for ex manifolds http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/SS321-Nissa...001529097QQrdZ1 then $60 for a collector pipe http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/R32-R33-R34...001145913QQrdZ1 Let's see that is about $300 plus shipping and maybe tax $350 since these are local to me here in the US. 1635-350=1285 difference What could you do with $1285US? I kinda like Trust33 idea, take it to a welder and have him reinforce it if he thinks it needs to be. The only piece I can really see as having a problem with is the exhaust manifolds since they are weight bearing. But it is not like they are carrying one big asss turbo. I am in the US and I can't get HKS parts cheap here, I usually have to pay out the nose for EMS shipping from Japan. Thanks for the great ideas guys, Tim Deesen

After getting some more info and checking my life savings, I now think I will do my upgrades in stages and see if I am happy with the power output once I get there. I think I will start with mostly bolt ons first and shoot for around 450whp(~330kw). My spare R33 rb26 engine is in very good shape with about 35K miles on it. I think I'll do all these mods on it and drop it in. From the info I gathered it sounds like the stock bottom end should be good for about 500hp(~370kw), does that sound right? I thought instead of rebuilding the bottom end with forged stuff, I will spend the money on a set of Work XD9s with some Kumo VRs and do some brake upgrades. I am mostly building a weekend warrior to have fun with autocrossing and occasional drag racing at the tracks. Anyway here is my revised idea for now. Stage 1 Power Upgrade. Tomei Poncams and Adj cam gears-any suggestion if I should go 260in 260ex or go 260in and 252ex? I don't really know what difference the 260 vs 252 on the exhaust cam makes. Tomei 1mm hgasket kit with oil restrictors-I trust this is a good Hgasket kit, are they O-ringed? Jun oil pump-already have this, used one. Do I need to worry about too much oil pressure with the turbos or anything? N1 Water Pump-Paulr33 said I should run stock since I will not be full racing my GTR. They said the stock waterpump flows more at lower RPMs. Is this the case? I thought it was just fewer larger blades that cause less water cavitation or something along those lines. Greddy Intake Manifold-already have, how much difference do these actually make other than looking pretty? HKS style ex manifolds, dump pipes and collector-got these new off of ebay, generic and cheap but they look like they should work fine. Anyone have real world experience with the RB26dett Ebay stuff. I have heard about manifolds cracking, but I figure anything that is not cast will have that problem at one time or another. I even saw an HKS set on Ebay that was being sold with a crack already there, not even repaired. Is it worth running the less expensive ones over the cast manifolds? HKS intercooler hard pipes-got it HKS 3.5 inch exhaust-got it HKS Twin Plate Clutch-got it Trust FMIC-got it, been used so fins are a little bent up , but came with the car. Decat test pipe(or maybe get a good hi flow cat for the streets) BNR34 N1 turbos-I already have these so I think I will give it a shot for my stage 1 upgrade anyway. Power FC L-Jetro-Need this for tuning I'd say Z32 AFMs-Not sure on these now if I am only going to get around 450hp, when should I replace the stock ones? 600-700cc injectors-I am thinking 680cc sards, I here I should be able to idle ok and I can grow into them if I want to bump the power. STR Fuel Rail-got it Aeromotive FPR-what do you guys think about the sard FPRs? Apexi Air Filters-got it Greddy Profec B Electronic Boost controller-got it Nismo Fuel pump ~280 l/hr-thinking about this one, what is the stock one good for? Probably need it for bigger injectors...Also, I read somewhere about running a direct power line for the pump to keep constant higher volts, is this the case with the R32 GTRs that they vary voltage to the pump? Koyo Radiatior with electric fans-got it External oil cooler-I think I will do one that comes with a fan strapped to it since I am in arizona and will be doing some autocrossing. Oil catch can-have a big ol one thinking of doing a more discrete one. I have heard/ seen if the crank venting are not done right you can have problems, is this right? What is the best way to set up an oil catch can? Closed circuit or have a port to vent to atmosphere? ATI Crank Damper-do you guys think it worth spending at this power level? What's the deal with running a line outta the back of the head and having it return to the oil pan? Oil Pan-is it worth messing with? I thought I could slap a Tomei baffle kit in it(~$200US), that or I would do the Trust Oil Pan Upgrade kit(~$320US) but this involves cutting and welding but adds baffle and 1500cc more capacity. Stage 2 will be forged stuff, ATI damper, balance rotating assemble with full engine rebuild but I will see if I'm happy with 330-370kw ;-) Once again any of your feedback/suggestions are appreciated. Thanks, Tim Deesen

OK guys, I have recently became the proud owner of a 1990 GTR with a relatively stock engine setup. It currently has an R33 RB26 in it with a chipped stock computer. It has a Trust FMIC, HKS hard pipes, Apexi air filters, 3inch HKS cat back exhaust, HKS twin plate clutch, and a Koyo radiator with electric fans. Now I have been looking around online to see what guys are running for power and mods but I am not sure what I should be aiming for. My car will be street legal(one of the last cars to escape Motorex before they shut the doors) in Arizona. This car will not be my daily driver, more the weekend warrior/have fun at the track and woop up on vettes and such :-) I am interested in being able to drive it on the streets so I will not be gutting it and making it full race. I will be doing autocross and occasional drag racing. Not really interested in wheel to wheel but would like to hit some other track events. I will also be keeping the AC in since I am going to be in AZ(summers are killers here). From what I have been reading 550-650whp(~400-480Kw) sounds like the sweet spot for an R32 GTR. I want to build a good powerful and reliable engine. I know the RB26s when built properly can run this kind of of power day in and out. Now I do not have unlimited resources to spend on my car so I kind of want to do it right the first time around, and heed the advice of others who aready went down the bumpy road. BOVs, I am currently using the stock BOVs that recirculate the air. I like this setup, but I wonder when I crank the boost if it will be enough. Do guys ever add in a 3rd one? 2 stock ones recirculate and one vents to atmosphere. Or should I get a couple of greddy BOVs with the hose adaptors to recirculate? Just some thoughts going through my head. Spark, ok at what point do I need to worry about getting more/stronger spark than stock? I have seen the splitfire coil packs along with other spark boosting modules. Is it a matter of how much boost I am running? Too much power...yes there is such a thing even for GTRs. I have read at certain power levels things start to break on the GTRs. I've heard the trannies, especially 3rd gear go boom with too much power. I've also read/seen that the front diffs break and shear off the oil pan. OK, I know when your messing with big power and racing that things are going to break from time to time, but I would like to keep it to a minimum. Anyone know what this point of power equals loads of destruction is? Basically how much power can I run and not have to worry too much about other things breaking on me? I have a pair of low mileage R34 N1 turbos (707160-4 I think they are the same as 707160-5). The int is A/R 60 M24 and the ex is .64. I originally bought them thinking they would work for me but it seems like everyone going this route is using HKS 2530s. Not sure if this is an HKS bling thing or if they are that much better. I've read that the R34 N1s are only slightly smaller than the 2530s. I would like to have a fat power band and be able to spool quickly. I have read conflicting information on the ability of the R34 N1s to put out more than ~500hp(~370Kw), although I've read some posts that say they are good for 700hp(~520Kw) at the crank. Problem seems to be most of what I've read is guys speculating not actual real world experience when it comes to the R34 N1 turbos(707160-5). However, if I am going to pay to have it tuned, I rather do so with the right turbos for my application. I have also thought about installing either a Tomei oil pan baffle kit, a Trust oil pan upgrade kit, or a Tomei oversized oil pan(ouch this one costs bucks though) . Thinking maybe the Trust weld on oil pan kit. Somewhere I also read about using smaller orfice oil restrictors like what comes in the Tomei kit, and I also read some other stuff about having an oil line plumbed into the back of the head and I think returning to the oil pan. I already have a remote mount oilfilter setup, so I think I will go ahead and put in an oil cooler as well. I liked the idea of the ARC one that went in place of the grill just under the hood, however I was thinking since I will be doing autocross maybe I should get one that has an electric fan mounted to it. The block I am going to have cleaned and honed and then have the clutch, crank, pistons, damper balanced. Anyone have experience with Eagle rods? do they need to be modified in any way? What about bearings, do they make a difference in who makes them? Since the engine only has around 35k miles on it I was thinking of just leaving the head alone aside from slapping in a set of cams and cam gears. Is it worth messing with the head? I have seen some guys that had the quench(sp?) area ground out. Also I was just going to use the Tomei pon cams so I don't think I would need to reshim or change springs. Remember I am not try to be a dyno queen here, peak horsepower is not what I am after, I just want to have a fat powerband and be quick and responsive on the tracks. That's why I want to stick with twins. Pump gas or race gas? I have read some people are getting great power out of there RB26 even on pump gas when tuned properly. Is it worth messing with 92 octane or mixing race gas with pump gas? I have heard some guys get it tuned to race gas and then turn down the boost when running pump gas. Pump gas is just easier to come by and way cheaper, but then again this isn't my daily driver. Any thoughts? Any pointers from guys that have experience building and or tuning these engines would be greatly appreciated. I am open to suggestions, and if anyone knows of good shops that do dyno tuning in the Phoenix area that would be great also as I am not familiar with any out there. Thanks in advance, Tim Deesen This is what I am thinking for a build: Wiseco pistons standard bore Eagle rods ARP headbolts and rod bolts ATI Crank damper Tomei Poncams(not sure which ones) and Adj cam gears Tomei 1mm hgasket kit with oil restrictors Jun oil pump N1 Water Pump Greddy Intake Manifold HKS style ex manifolds, dump pipes and collector HKS intercooler hard pipes HKS 3inch exhaust HKS Twin Plate Clutch Trust FMIC Decat test pipe(or maybe get a good hi flow cat for the streets) BNR34 N1 turbos (thinking about HKS 2530s) Power FC L-Jetro Z32 AFMs 600-700cc injectors STR Fuel Rail Aeromotive FPR Apexi Air Filters Electronic Boost controller Nismo Fuel pump ~280 l/hr Koyo Radiatior with electric fans External oil cooler Oil catch can Am I missing anything?(other than a truckload of money ;-)...)

Well that's why I was asking if someone new what these would be rated at, on Garrets site they say the 707160-5 is good for 250-360hp each, if you make that times 2 turbos you get 500-720hp. Does that math work right? I figure even if I go conservative they should be good for 500-600hp and hopefully maintain efficiency. When I bought these the HKS 2530s(used) were going for around $2000US plus shipping, and I was able to get the BNR34 N1s(7-10K kms) that I had heard were very similar for $1300US delivered to my door. Also, I figured the R34 N1s would likely spool up faster and have better powerband in the midrange. But as I have no experience with either turbo setup I figure I would ask if someone has had experience with the 707160-5(or in my case 707160-4). http://www.turbobygarrett.com/turbobygarre...0R_707160_5.htm

Hi guys, I recently purchased a pair of R34 N1 Turbos from Japan and I am curious what exactly I have. I have searched multiple forums for the different R34 N1 turbo info and I found a lot here(some of it confusiing), but I also read that they had different specs available, Vspecs N1s?. I was told mine are Nissan Skyline BNR34 N1 turbos. The info on first line of garret tag is “DF 0106J” second line “1441-aa402” third line 707160-4” The other turbo first line “DF 0113J” second line 14411-aa402” third line “707160-4”. The int is A/R 60 M24 and the ex is .64. I tried doing a search with the different numbers but could not come up with a direct match. The closest I came was the garet 707160-5 or 707160-7. I imagine mine is like a 707160-5(AR60 with .64ex) which is in the 2860R family, but I was reading and it seemed that there may be different variations maybe with the wheels/trims but I'm not sure. I also wrote Garret and they wrote back "These are the same turbos. The difference in part numbers has to do with OE and aftermarket applications. Essentially, you have a pair of GT2560R’s. Regards, Garrett Gearhead." I also recall that the may have changed some of their numbering system for their turbos at one point. Of course I am just trying to figure out if these are the best turbos for my application but I am not sure what they are comparable to. I would like to know how they compare to HKS 2530s as this seems to be the popular setup. HKS 2530s vs BNR34 N1s 707160-4(or -5) Compare What RPM do they hit full boost When do they run out of breath/effeciency ~21psi? How much power are they good for compared to the 2530s Advantages/disadvantages Just trying to figure out if these are best for my setup or if I should get some 2530s. Also, I didn't get the banjo oil supply bolts with my turbos, do I need to run an oil restrictor such as the HKS 2530s uses in the bolts( http://www.hksusa.com/products/?id=694). I remember reading a post the subject with the HKS stuff and the resricted one was a huge difference in size compare to stock floating/sleeve bearing. A Nissan part number for those Nissan oil supply banjo bolts would be great if anyone has them. http://www.turbobygarrett.com/turbobygarre...0R_707160_5.htm http://www.turbobygarrett.com/turbobygarre...0R_707160_7.htm http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...281&hl=707160-7 FYI I am aimiing for ~600-650hp(500-550hp at the wheels) at the crank more important to me is not peak HP, but a broad useable powerband, I would like to get into autocrossing again, and messing around with drag racing occasionally. So quick boost is a good thing for autocross. This is what I'll be running 1990 GTR R33 Engine(newly built) Wiseco pistons Eagle rods Tomei Poncams and Adj cam gears Tomei 1mm hgasket kit with oil restrictors Jun oil pump N1 Water Pump Greddy Intake Manifold HKS style ex manifolds, dump pipes and collector HKS hard pipes HKS 3inch exhaust HKS Twin Plate Clutch Trust FMIC Decat test pipe BNR34 N1 turbos PFC Z32 AFMs 600-660cc FI Apexi Air Filters Electronic Boost controller Nismo Fuel pump Koyo Radiatior with electric fans External Oil cooler This is about what I'll be running after I do the rebuild. This is not my daily driver, more my weekend fun car :-) Thanks in advance, Tim