Gambit

They share the same airflow meter but the rb25det runs 380cc injectors and the rb20det runs 260cc injectors. I'm sure a similar question has come up before on www.skyline-owners-club.com and the general consensus is that it won't work without remapping the ecu to suit the 25 due to having different fuel, ignition, nvcs requirements.

The alarm output wire provides an earth for your relay not a 12v.

I have an rb26dett starter on my rb25det, so if Duncan has an rb30 on his rb26 then an rb30 should also fit a 25 without any problems.

I've had that happen too, but not since the latest software upgrade. When it's happened I've looked at the datalog and the emu has stopped outputting an afm signal. Start a new map and it's all fine again. The hydraulic lifters on mine started complaining at 7500 so I wouldn't go above 7200. Personally, I left it at 7000 as I really don't need any more revs. Especially with a 3.7:1 ratio diff

I tried vg30dett and rb25 with a q45, z32 and rb25 air flow meters. The datalogs for all of the combinations showed the input voltages being appropriate for the air flow meter but the output voltages were all showing that the ultimate was converting the input voltage back to emulate the stock AFM voltages .

One thing I would like to add to this is that fitting a bigger AFM is pointless with the ultimate as it converts the voltage outputs back to the stock AFM values. So effectively no matter how big the AFM you really have on the car is it will still have the same limits as the stock AFM. Your only option is to wind back the boost until you have the map sensor on there. I found this after data logging the AFM voltages on my Z32 to cure my fuel cut, since then I've gone back to a stock AFM to get the data sampling I need for the MAP sensor to work properly.

Can anyone tell me where they've connected the nvcs to?? I thought about splicing in at the ecu but I cant see an output for it.

Automatic gearbox has a 4.363:1 diff Manual geabox has a 4.111:1 diff

Hmm, I had heard about adjusting the voltage table for it on the PFC commander but everyone I asked over here just kinda stared at me lol Bl4cK32, I dont suppose you could post up what you adjusted yours from/to ?

I couldnt get over half a bar of boost (8psi) without it maxxing I've checked, double checked and rechecked all the wiring and PFC settings and everything was plumbed in as it should be. Unforunately im not in a position to swap AFM's around on my car as its sat in a garage with the engine in a dozen pieces awaiting a 4th rebuild (some "tuners" should be shot) but it would be nice to have an answer to this for when she goes back on the road. 22680 61u00 a36-000 p60 - This is what I have on mine 22680 61u01 a36-000 p61 - This is the other one on a friends car

Makes it easier to start if it is ...PFC was set up for the Q45 and 740cc injectors. The pfc was mapped at one point (long story and a crap tuner) and they had mentioned turning off the afm warning as it kept retarding.

I know on the 33's an auto diff is 4.363:1 and the manual is 4.111:1 Believe the 32's are the same. 4.363 will give marginally better acceleration and a slightly lower top speed.

yup, both 90mm

Actually this is partly down to me My q45 has u00 p60 in the serial number (same as pommeys) and maxes out (5.1v on the pfc) at 3/4 throttle around 70mph/3000rpm. Thats running a 3037pro s on an RB25, unmapped and a guesstimated 300bhp at the wheels. A friend has a Q45 with u01 p61 in the serial number and has no such problems with his 336bhp at the hubs.

My guess is you've removed the 2 stage boost and/or upped it to .8 bar I found mine overfuelled when I did this to mine, so I used an safc2 to trim around 8-10% out from 4300-6500 out and that "holding back" feeling went and she pulled like a train all the way through to the redline.

Hey guys, Newbie to this forum but regular user of the UK forums. Had this same flatspot on my 33, would hesitate and verge on stalling everytime I went to pull away. Checked for leaks, cleaned the aac etc etc etc. Turned out to be the O2 sensor was shagged, changed it for a generic 3-wire one and it cured it instantly. May or may not be your solution but worth a try I reckon.