Munkyb0y

lol. as if the original scam he fell for was any less obvious

agreed

well that's easy then. disconnect negative cable from your battery. grab a multimeter and set the dial to read Amps - 10A. clamp one of the multimeter leads to the negative terminal of the battery, and the other lead to the negative cable you disconnected. Now the circuit is complete, and power is back on. Your multimeter should be showing you the current drawn from your battery. So with the car turned off (make sure interior light and boot light are off), start removing one fuse at a time, and check the meter each time to see if the current draw has dropped to acceptable levels. 0.05A or under. Replace fuse, and pull the next one untill you find the one single fuse that causes the current reading to drop. whatever that fuse powers is the source of your problem.

i dun gettit. why pull the back seat out, unless for race or cage purposes? if it's just for looks, then you should have retrimmed the seat in black , or something. i dont like it. especially on a car that looks as shmick as yours. it's all empty and shit back there now.

i was going to suggest a 350z. ive driven one a few times. they handle great. beautiful to drive. sound nice. dont attract too much attention. decked out nicely from factory. but.... all the cars he mentioned on his short list are turbo. so for 20k you cant buy, and then turbo a 350z. i do like them though.

May i suggest an evo 7, coz if you get a 6 and it looks like ass, whats the point? I mean performance aside, the car still has to look nice....right?...right!!?

that's not an e-boost 2. it's an e-boost street. it's their cheaper controller. and that does look/sound like a gain setting to me.

yep ^ neg off first. neg on last.

i remember doing mine, and they were a bitch too. as long as the hicas is still bolted in place, just get a nice tight spanner onto the nut (or vice grips if the nut is fcked), and then tap the spanner with a hammer in the direction you need to loosen it. The shock from the hit (maybe a few hits) usually helps crack the seal. it worked for me. and remember this when you're doing your camber arms you'll need it! oh yeah, and wd40!! as mentioned above

hahaha, you slack kents. here you go man. have a look/read thru this, and then search for more stuff and read that too. http://auto.howstuffworks.com/engine1.htm

yeah same ^. much steadier feed from there. doesnt fluctuate as wildly in cold/hot weather either.

i got a free jvc kdr 616 after my jap spec alpine finally died the reason i mention the jvc is that it has dozens of backlight colour options, it has aux in, and usb.... and its pretty cheap. i've just set mine to white, but it goes thru the whole spectrum. you can even change the colour of the dial, and screen seperately. it will dim at night if you select the option. and surprisingly, after i played with its 3 band parametric equalizer long enough, it now sounds pretty damn good.

ive never heard of anyone using the YA plugs on a skyline. i know i just changed 1.8 lancer and 2.2 celica plugs, and they were BKR5EYA.

well i guess it's Gheymish from now on

adjust the idle screw anti-clockwise to raise your idle slightly, to around 700 - 750rpm when warm. it will be fine after that. i just changed my plugs and my idle was slightly lower than before. not stalling or anything, but with the headlights on it would drop a little too low for my liking. i found a split in my breather hose, which i fixed when i changed my plugs. my guess is that slight leak may have been enough to raise the idle by 50-100rpm. dunno. maybe not. 7's will be fine if you're running around 200kw or higher, say 12psi on stock turbo. theyve been recommended by plenty of tuners/mechanics for this application. p.s. i drive my car like a granny 70% of the time, and i run 7's. when i change my plugs, they dont look fouled at all.

r33 is definitely 19mm. r34 is prob the same

ok, i got a 1N5404 which is 400V 3A. Should do the job

old school late 60's camaro wins

took me a while, but I finally got around to it just to confirm for others. on R33 its the pin on the far left (driver's side) on both relays. Same as cube's original instructions for R32. i havent put a diode in yet. the one above is rated at 400V 1A. Is 1A ok for this application?

i've got a bubble on my passenger door, just above the crease. size of a 10c piece. for some reason there is one single small strip of sound deadening mat stuck on the inside of the door. obviously when it rains, this mat holds water, and it's caused the rust bubble. very annoyed.

probably 19mm socket

Nissan Skylight looks pretty slow to me

this cant be right. i run same kumho's in 265 @38psi. rear camber is -1deg. around 220kw, smash the pedal in 3rd in the wet, and it's on for young and old.

yes, it's a nismo bar. but that's all i know. mintr33 told me ages ago when i first got the car. he had the same bar on his. send him a pm and see if he can help you out.

template for sure. no one designs a site from scratch and makes it identical to an existing site. would take more effort than making it original.