Munkyb0y

WITH !!!!!

the way it knows is there's a hicas related clock spring type wheel behind the steering wheel that turns with your steering wheel. so it keeps track of the angle. 'steering angle sensor' but i dont know why ppl keep saying check if your steering wheel is off by a tiny bit. coz the splines dont allow you to be off by a tiny bit. it's very noticeable if you're off if only by one tooth. i suggest taking your boss kit off and check that it has the appropriate holes in the back for the steering angle sensor to lock into. also, check that the sensor is still there.

BRAKE not break

from my experience with gutted cats years ago, i could smell it. it gives off a distinctive smell. if its only for 1 week, you should be ok.

when my ebc was still working, my car was tuned at 15psi on the stock turbo up to about 4krpm, and then down to 12 psi till redline. i asked the tuner about it, and he said at the lower rpm the turbo can handle it fine, as long as it's not still running 15psi at the top. i was a bit suss, but he was confident. his reasons were the same as yours. to give it a nice kick coming onto the power. makes it feel much quicker. it was absolutely fine till the ebc stopped working. now i'm just running 13ish psi with a MBC.

those holes in the back plate make it hicas compatible. and yeah it should suit nardi. that's what the extra mounting holes are for. this was a friendly service announcement

for the price, i'd just go with the cheaper type. i dont imagine there are advantages with the cusco in terms of the way it works.

same shit really. the other options are the cusco type, which is very different, and the tomei lock kit that uses shims on the hicas unit instead of removing it, and also uses an electronic box to fool the hicas ecu into behaving itself.

$180. Comes with the plug. You have PM

Still for sale. make an offer

around 250rwkw on a RB25 with crazy response at 18psi or so, with injectors, fuel pump, afm, and the rest. btw, i'll be selling a z32 afm, and 6 x S15 injectors shortly.

deposit taken. sold pending payment

Hey guys. I'm selling this HKS 2535 turbo. I bought it for my R33, but never got around to fitting it. I got it from a sau member, with low kms, under 10k. I'm super fussy about what i fit to my car. Some people can vouch for this So i sent this turbo to Fred at TurboLogic for a once-over. He told me it looks to be in great condition. Spins freely. No shaft play, etc etc. But since I wasnt in a rush, we decided he could dress (smooth the leading edge) and balance the front wheel, just to make sure it runs like new, and makes every last bit of power it's capable of. So now it's pretty much perfect. This turbo owes me around $1600. And i havent even used it!!! I'm asking for $1400. Pick up in Sydney preferred, but will post, insured and registered, if required. It's also got a Garrett big head 14psi adjustable actuator on it. Holds boost better than the smaller units. It comes with all lines, bolts, silicone elbow, dump gasket. Everything you need to fit it up to a RB25 or RB20. It's a direct fit. Same dump pattern, same everything. Price: $1400. Pick up in Sydney preferred, but will post, insured and registered, if required.

b-b-b-bump

i dont know of a way to bypass it. if there is a way, i'd love to hear it. i left mine unplugged, just to see if i could get away with removing it. 30 seconds into the drive, the steering would go heavy. did it several times, then connected it back up.

+11ty. what a homo. what are you doing on a nissan forum anyway? and this is your sig? shouldnt you be prancing around somewhere, trying to buy friends/respect?

i got this from skyline drivers when i first got my 33. and there were much less of them around at that time. some gave dirtys. others thought it was a race challenge. douchebags. so i stopped bothering. i couldnt take the rejection

actually you might be right i think i was getting it confused with my fmic piping, which is 2.25.

i think standard is 2.25 till the crossover pipe, which is 2.5 to TB.

dude, that's still hilarious, and will be in another 2 years! PAPA!!

it doesnt have to be an expensive gauge to be accurate, just as long as it's a decent brand. i'm using a vdo mech gauge right now. have been using it for a while. it's always spot on. had a splitfire in the car when i bought it. seemed pretty good. autometer was also good. i hooked up a calibre gauge. it was out by a couple of psi. autogauge, same crap.

there's a pic in the first post with model number displayed. worldtech wt-901

you were selling this car werent you? i guess it's sold now! minus excess

i asked my mate to check his. the resolution is 960x234 according to the user manual.

Hmmm. I dont know. It doesnt say on the box. It's 16:9 widescreen. I will try find the res.