Munkyb0y

he's talking about the square bit before the centre console lid. it's more of a jap takeaway holder, than a drink holder

they all look great! i prefer the 33 interior/dash over the 32 by far. and thats a deal breaker for me. back when i had little knowledge of skylines, and no bias, i looked inside a 32 and went 'eeew dude, no way'. but........ now i appreciate them all.

blah blah blah ... i like the r33 ...blah blah blah and thats my whole argument

http://www.selleystrade.com.au/Silicone-40...94/default.aspx this stuff is high temp and very stable. it has a really strong smell when you apply it, but that clears up as it cures. bunnings sell it.

gimps. did yours install over your seats like really tight seat covers? or do you strip the fabric from your seats and replace with the leather?

Thanks for the pic mate. Here's the momo wheel for sale.

if you get stuck, give this a go.

how much boost are you running, and what size gap on the plugs? i would expect new coilpacks to handle 1.1mm plug at 12psi, but you might want to try running 0.8mm gap just to see if that solves your prob.

liquid nails

some pics of the rear of the 2 different types of steering wheels would be interesting. might help your cause too.

400 treadwear indicates very hard compound, which translates to poor grip. a higher number its not a good thing. even the cheap nankang ns2 have a treadwear rating of 340.

http://www.google.com.au/images?um=1&h...ai=&start=0 there you go. start browsing.

you can get to those 2 plugs from the drivers side of engine bay. its a tight squeeze to get to the one near the knuckle. the other one is right near your dipstick. almost as easy as checking your oil just make sure you disconnect them, check theyre clean and dry, and reconnect them. also look at the wiring, make sure it looks ok. not broken, frayed, missing etc.

check the plug and wiring that goes to the solenoid on your rack. its right near the knuckle, below your oil filter. check the other plug that runs off the knuckle on a hardline and is located next to your dipstick. i would be inclined to think its a rack issue, as rack work has been done.

what? no way. my r33 stock turbo with a turbotech bc holds 13psi flat all the way. no spike, no drop.

i remember that sparkplug thread. some guy got work done at a workshop, and came home to find that. shocker!! oh yeah. vice grips would be my first step. super tight. you may even need multigrips to close the vice grips

sunken this and sunken that!! i cant take it anymore! if you say sunken one more time, i'm reporting you to the mods for banning!!

what does it do? steering gets heavy after 5 mins? always? at certain speed? how heavy? like no power steering at all? are you using the standard steering wheel or aftermarket? have you tried disconnectiing/reconnecting the hicas ecu in the boot? did this start as a result of installing a lock bar? or before that? depending on your answers, there's also a solenoid on your steering rack that could be causing the problem. its independant of hicas.

you know it could be the tyres themselves. i had steering wheel vibration at between 100-130kph. it shit me for ages. checked balance and alignment, was ok. then my shitty nankangs (they came with the car) finally wore down, so i changed them and bam... vibration gone.

thats strange. your factory boost gauge isnt lit up either, and i know it's the same bulb that lights that entire dial. could it be the uneven spread of light that leds are prone to? maybe try swapping the lights around as suggested above. or try a regular bulb in that side. if it lights up ok, you know the problem is the led. i just put philips crystal vision parker bulbs in my dash, and it lights up pretty even across the dials, and very bright too!

when you finally have one in your hands, you'll notice its just a piece of pipe with threaded ends and a couple of tabs. so no, i dont think you can go wrong. any ebay lock bar will be the same shit really. looks more like plumbing than a suspension component. lol vibration could be a lot of things. if you're lucky it might be one of the bushes you're changing, or even a toe issue that you'll resolve with this install. otherwise, who knows? gearbox mount? tailshaft issue? unbalanced wheels? etc etc etc. edit: i just noticed you said 'steering vibration'. ie. front end. get a wheel alignment/balance. see if that fixes it.

i installed mine recently leave everything connected as is, apart from the plugs on the hicas rack, which you obviously unplug and cable tie away safely. if you're not experiencing steering issues now, you wont have any after the lock bar goes in. the super light low speed steering will most likely be lost, and you'll have a firmer weight. this is only noticeable at very low speeds, and it certainly isnt a case of no power steering or 'heavy' steering. get the rear (toe) aligned after install. if your car is lowered and you have rear camber issues, you may as well fit a couple of adjustable rear camber arms at the same time and get the lot aligned in one go. thats what i did.

no it wont cause anything. at the very most, it may make your gauge respond slowly if u had a hugely thick line, or way too long. but wont affect the way the car drives. btw, i tried one of these calibre boost gauges. was craptacular. not accurate, and too slow. are you sure you're not being fooled by a poor gauge reading, and convincing yourself the car isnt performing? check for leaks on the new gauge, and existing line. you will hear a pretty loud hissing if there is a leak, even while idling.

yes its appauling. have you douchebags learnt nothing? when a new girl intro's herself, we should at least take it slow, let her get comfy, maybe have (OO)SKYLINE(OO) do the intial greeting, as he's always polite and shit (extra points for you), and then once they start to realise what twisted fkrs you all are, you may procced to the boobs, snatch, pics or gtfo comments. so in summary, around half way through page 2 should be sufficient!

he's after a reduced height of his shifter. i dont think short shifters are any shorter in length, or if they are, its only a small amount. their purpose is to shorten the throw between gears. although i'm only guessing, i would assume the weight removed from the shifter can be made up with the appropriate gear knob, if it turns out to be a problem. the stock knob is pretty light compared to aftermarket alloy knobs.