Munkyb0y

if you check the SS specs on nengun, the spring rates are (Nissan ECR33 - F 4.0 R4.0 (kg/mm). and they are definitely jap spec theyre selling. http://www.nengun.com/tein/super-street when i got my aus specs, i spoke to fulcrum about another matter, and i recall some talk of revalving, but no mention of spring rates. but since i wasnt actually asking what they do to them, i dont know for sure. btw, i got mine really cheap. if i was buying at retail, i'd prob go the cheaper option. ie jap spec.

hmmm i was under the impression fulcrum re-valve (dampening) the super streets and leave the springs alone.

was there mad fitment? coz seriously, no self respecting wannabe drift douche would dare buy wheels that actually fit their car. lol it seems the closer it looks to a mexican el camino, the more hektik the douche!

i can tell you now, he does burnouts when he takes off on dirt and grass. and he's got some mad negative camber on the rear.

well i put that app on my gf's gayphone. i pressed start. i shook the phone around, and apparently.... i ran an 8 second quarter mile. not bad huh? it equated to something like 1100hp ... at the elbow!

HOON ^ but seriously, dont try and tell me there wasnt one wayward drop of water onto someone's tshirt! not one single pillow fight!

it is an iphone app

when i see these 'autosalon' style cars. i just naturally assume theyre slow, and the owner's interests are all about looks, bling, and all that gay shit. i dont think they'd care about putting false badging on the car, running a fake bov, or even, and this was mentioned in another thread, putting a fmic on an NA. lol obviously, this is a huge blanket statement, and wont always be true. but for the most part, this is the way i see it.

one piece dump and front. theres a few around. here's one example. http://justjap.com/store/product.php?produ...at=0&page=1

thats good news ^^, coz i have a hks 2535 sitting here with 480cc injectors and a z32 afm to go into my r33, most likely on a nistune, when i eventually get my ass motivated, and other more important crap stops coming up! and like you, i'm not interested in numbers. i just want response, low/mid range torque, and a totally useable street car. oh, and a few spare sets of tyres i would imagine close to 250rwkw at 18psi or so?

i think s1 r33 (non airbag) is different from s2 and r34. the hicas bit wont fit with that wheel.

thats coz the wheel is in pretty bad shape, obviously. otherwise, for $70, i'd buy it and drill out some holes to adapt it to my 33

lizzy shmizzy. show us some pics!!! p.s. the other liz told me to say that

i suggest lots of pics be taken and posted. also, i heard that day will be a bit warm. so i highly recommend white tshirts, and someone bring a hose

ok thats true, but people were talking about the insight gained by the state of their oil at the next oil change, on a car they already purchased. anyways. yeah my oil is silky smooth and golden on the dipstick too. and so it should be. its just a thin film against silver backround.

hold on a sec. you're talking about the colour of the oil on the dipstick? hahaha i'm pretty sure everyone else is talking about the oil dumped from the sump. big difference. maybe you should have clarified that earlier, as people were referring to the colour of oil at an oil change, which would indicate pulling the sump plug. oil lands in tray. black.

all this km guessing is pointless. unless you have an obvious indicator, like service sticker, log books, etc. best bet is to assume the kms on any low km import are false, and then judge the car on its condition. this way, you wont be swayed by false kms, and you wont be dissapointed later down the track. and hey, if the kms are true, woooties for you. coz a 62,000km 15 yr old taxi is just not plausible. and in most of these cases, it will be a false reading.

caution http://www.e90post.com/forums/showpost.php...p;postcount=254

well geeee tony, since youre such a top bloke, i'll answer that for you 5 x T10 for r33

the felt pads at the top look ok. ive adjusted those before, to get my windows to stop rattling. they didnt look too bad. but next time i pull the door trims off, i'll definitely check all that stuff again. so i guess this is not normal then? dont get me wrong, it's not like theyre about to konk out or anything, but compared to a bunch of cars i regularly drive (2000 lancer, 01 rav4, 09 swift, etc etc) theyre just not solid.

My power windows seem weak. the windows work fine, always, but.. they go up kinda slow and weak. I can hear the motors whining away. Both driver's and passenger. Theyve always been this way. Theyre just not solid and quick like in most other cars. Is this normal in early 33's? If not, what would be the fix? new motors? not enough power going to the motors? something not right with the window rails, mechanism, rollers, etc?

nice tutorial. i always thought you'd have to take the steering column shroud off too. but apparently i was wrong i'll be pulling my hicas globe out soon, and replacing the dash lights while i'm in there. how many wedge bulbs are there to replace?

hahaha no. he suspected a blown turbo, but when he checked it was all good.

longshot, but have a read of my thread. near the end, there's a plug involved http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Hi...ng-t312556.html

but the 180B is killing it!