Munkyb0y

post #2 from nagtroc

lol. you add the different thicknesses together to make the amount you want. ie. 0.8 with a 0.3 or as close as you can. put them together, and check the gap.

didnt you see my post?! thats the z32 afm you want. if it has that part number, its the right one.

What about Penrite SIN MANUAL TRANS 75-85 in a 33 gtst? http://www.penriteoil.com.au/products/gear...in_manual_trans Is it half decent? I think that's what I put in mine with the new clutch.

yeah 1.1mm with new coilpacks. but thats only at 13psi. i think i'll be going to 0.9mm for 16-18psi, and hope it holds up on the dyno.

who mentioned fake? we're talking about TT vs NA.

As far as i know, all z32 afms are the same. Whether it came from a TT or NA. I got one off an NA and it has the same part numbers on the label as the TT unit. I also did a bit of research before buying it, and found zed owners had already discussed this at length, and apparently they are the same unit. this is what you want the part numbers (in orange) to be. but, as i havent actually used it yet, i'd also like some confirmation from someone who knows if the NA and TT are the same.

ie. you'd need a shorter overall strut to mount them that way, yeah?

plus the R is underlined, so it makes your car go fasteR

the difference in length applies to the top of the plug, not inside the cylinder like so

Whats wrong with the BKR7E? I use them. They're great. Did you say 2.5mm shorter? lol. Your new coilpacks will contact the top of the plug. 2mm difference wont matter.

i didnt get an email or the product (whatever the hell it was, i've forgotten now) therefore, autoglym can glym my ass

You cant go wrong with Paul. He's excellent to deal with.

if its like the r33 series 1 3-spoke wheel (and i think they are quite similar), then you just pull the horn pad off, towards you, away from the wheel. there's 3 or 4 metal clips that hold it in place. just give it a good yank. it feels like it's not going to budge, and then it pops off.

cmon, even to me its painfully obvious! even without all your fandangled technical analysis. a rotary guzzles fuel like its dole day at redfern it creates so much exhaust, it NEEDS storm water pipes to get it all away slap a massive turbo on the fkr, and it doesnt even flinch there's no way this is equivalent to a 1.3L

You rotary guys are a bunch of flaming homos, and that's what keeps the masses away from the Wankel. Gayness by association.

hahaha. i'm laughing and want to strangle you at the same time. its very frustrating Calling them Datsuns isnt offensive to us. We love our Datto's around here

ETC ETC ... Hahahaha what an absolute tool. Just like that little fat kid that has a hissy fit when he doesnt get his cake. You've proven yourself by your own conduct. No one here could have made you look more of a tool than you've done for yourself. BTW, I like rotaries. I like rx7's very much too. And this was never a rotary bashing session. This was a very interesting debate, until you and your monkeys came in and pissed all over the place.

yes gtr fronts are shorter. not sure on rears. but i would think the teins would adjust high enough to compensate. edit: you didnt say if they are height adjustable lol. i just assumed.

I'll answer my own question I just got one from an NA. Same unit, same part numbers.

also consider injectors. its asking a lot of the stockers at 250kw, if they get there at all.

yes, kw gain. the highflow should be moving more air. ie. more power (with suitable tune etc etc etc)

dont be crazy man! it looks great in black.

I'll take the greddy oil press, temp adapter. PM sent

fark, that's a huge discrepancy. is that after your last tune when you thought you had the issue sorted? did you get it checked on another dyno and find it to be 55kw down on the CV dyno figure!!!? there's prob a thread on it somewhere that i missed