Munkyb0y

r33's have a small black gripper thing you can use to remove the fuses. its located on the left? side of the fuse box i think. but its not that great. get a pair of long nose pliers to grab the fuse and pull it out. thats the best way. and as far as replacing with 10A. Just use the correctly rated fuse for each spot. Check each fuse as you go, replacing any that are blown. fairly simple stuff. edit: beat me to it

hahahaha. what if he left after the 3rd post, and got his grinder out?

here's a little trick. take the fuel hose off so the pump is free to move. tie it onto the cradle with a cable tie, but only tight enough so it wont fall off, but loose enough so the pump can move up and down with slight effort. now put it into the tank, and it should hit the bottom of the tank, and will slide up the bracket. then pull the whole thing out again, and move it up the bracket another few mm, pull that cable tie tight, and add ring clamps or whatever you're using to secure it (and the fuel hose of course). it should now be sitting just higher than the base of your tank.

good work. so i guess the mesh on the afm is not removable / replaceable. the only way off is to cut it? and fitting a new one cant be done along the same lines as the original?

i'll pass. thanks anyway mate

or maybe you're just stealing other ppl's umbrellas from the umbrella bin. lol here in aus, you'd never ever walk around with a clear umbrella. but over there, everyone has one. so i got one too! theyre so damn practical. you can see straight thru it.

you can see it in these pics.

and if it's in great condition, I'LL take it!.

ive got my turbotech cable tied to the underside of the stock solenoid bracket. you can barely see it, and even if you did, it looks almost factory. and +1 on the stable boost. mine has never spiked, holds flat all the way.

does it have provision for the AAC valve? if not, what happens with that?

she also has a wang

happy birthday liz boob hugs all-round!

is the Z32 afm the same unit whether its from a TT or an NA?

surprisingly, i have to agree. i flew to Japan with them, and well, i'm still alive arent i?

nice. but i hope you never look at your boost gauge while on boost lol.

in my recent search for a z32 afm, ive been avoiding the ones with missing or damaged mesh. but now i'm curious about the exit side mesh. is it important? what purpose does it serve?

Happy Birthday Joey Joe Joe

I thought you had it wrong PM-R33. But it looks like you're right. its 27mm. from Whiteline site: F Swaybar 24mm-h/duty Blade adjustable BNF24Z F Swaybar 24mm-heavy duty BNF24 F Swaybar 27mm-X heavy duty BNF24X Which is weird, coz that part number on the SK group buy was a 24mm. Now i'm curious. Were the group buy front bars 24mm or 27mm?

I dont know what car they suit, but theyre not for ECR33. My Tein SS part numbers are QEN64-Z1531-L (and) R for the fronts, and QEN65-Z1531 for the rears. They also say ECR33 on them. Contact Fulcrum. They should be able to sort out those part numbers for you.

at a guess, for $199, and being from flyn, you're getting the full yumcha special. chicken feet and all.

SOLD

or maybe he will FILM THE FRONT WHEEL INSTEAD OF THE REAR WHEEL DURING A TYRE MELTING SMOKE SHOW!!!

you dont need a new oem one. just any cap rated to the same pressure will do the job perfectly. about $10 or less.

yes, tips on getting it out would be good. i havent tried yet, but its an absolute b1tch of a spot.

thats right. a bored driver that spends too much time in supercheap / autobarn / repco. ive got an urge to post up some hideous cars from this forum. but i wont.