Munkyb0y

pm for me too please

+1 good oil

you're wrong genuine nissan is a semi synthetic 7.5w30

$95 !!??? geeeeeez CV Performance at caringbah. $50. but theyre usually pretty busy. wouldnt hurt to call them.

ooooooooh likie check out the front guards

hold on a sec. where is the stock limiter on the 25? i thought it was around 7000 - 7200rpm hitting that limiter shouldnt be an issue, as long as you dont live on it.

is that $15 per tyre to Sydney? i dont know if you already mentioned it, but whats the approx price guide? eg. 275/35/18

here's the under-dash fuse box translation. keep it. it'll come in handy but i dont see any horn fuse. so maybe check under the bonnet in the engine bay relay/fuse box. its in english has your r33 got a steering wheel airbag? if not, you can just pull the centre pad cover thing off by pulling it till it unclips. then check the horn wire is plugged in. if you open your bonnet and look straight down in front of your radiator, you will see your horns mounted there, check those are plugged in too.

good call. try out as many cars as you can. use the car yards as your personal bitch, then go buy the car he likes from a private seller btw i drove some mx5's and was quite dissapointed. i guess for less money they might be ok, but in the end, i talked my gf out of buying one. its basically a chassis with wheels. overpriced for what you're getting, and oh so very gay for a bloke to drive.

it worked for me. but ive removed the file now anyway. pm me your email address, and i'll send it to you.

a little trick i learnt when i was using the turbotech. blow into the bottom nipple as hard as you can, and tighten the nut till you can just barely get air passing thru the second nipple. this will ensure its set somewhere close to stock boost. then you can fit it and adjust from there, knowing you wont be spiking to 30psi

i'm sure there's a tutorial in the diy section, with pics. S1 and S2 are the same as far as the install. the reo may be slightly different but that has little effect. here's an install manual for the hybrid style coolers. it shows you the basic steps. its really not that hard. CLICK HERE

i'm guessing the dump pattern is different to stock? also how many kms?

because stock is designed to flow evenly from the centre inlet, whereas this adapted version is said to supply more air to the forward cylinders, and less to the rear. therefore uneven airflow. hence the benefit of a proper flow test.

+1 used good condition wheels with rubber is always the way to go. coz as soon as you put your new wheels on your car, theyre used wheels

if nothing else (but theres plenty else), the rich mixtures will tend to foul your plugs by idling for minutes on end while cold. i can practically light my exhaust fumes on cold start lol. so i prefer, start, buckle up, drive off sensibly, wait till oil pressure settles to normal levels, then have fun.

oooh dish the back will have plenty, but you might find with those flat-ish spokes, the fronts have no dish, or even worse, anti-dish i like them

FD RX7 > Z32 > Supra

agreed you're better off teeing into the factory boost gauge line. it's this one:

confirmed i put 12v and earthed the other two, and it squeeled like a pig lol. so yeah, it was a siren.

any pics?

thanks chris yeah there's a mystery black box under drivers side dash too. i'll try follow it all across before i rip anything out. so i can remove all this crap yeah? is it the white box in the second pic? can you circle the bits in the pic that are related to the alarm. ie. that i can remove safely. is the silver box related to it too? so what's the thing in the engine bay? siren i guess, yeah?

^ thanks mate. i'm still not sure what it is. here are some more pics. this is the path it takes into the cabin, behind the glove box. there is a constant 12v at the red wire. notice how its wrapped in the protective foam, as if it were factory fitted? confusing, because those joiners dont look factory some close-ups of the mystery unit.