Munkyb0y

that sux man. i know this is no help now, but why was it insured for such a low sum?

post the link dude edit: http://www.youtube.com/profile_videos?user=r33Niko

theyre cheap man. that one cost me about 7k, a few years back. i'd say under 5k these days. its a mid 80's LJ70 Bundera. 2.4L petrol i sold that one to a guy in melbourne, who stuck a 350 chev in it

i use to like running over stuff in this. now i cant even get into a driveway head on ive been thinking about getting another one

i'm pretty sure guilt-toy was joking theres some debate about 12psi vs 14psi on the stock turbo. maybe we can get some actual results from those who have tried. did it make any more meaningful power? did the turbo last? etc etc

look what you're reduced to. they throw us a few crumbs, and you're all celebrating. lol

run the biggest gap you can get away with. if the spark breaks down (misfiring), you know you need to gap them lower. so 1.1mm is great if you have no issues. if not go down to 0.8mm. it all depends on how well your coilpacks work.

i left mine off too. full stainless 3". no problem. the guys that fitted it said it's not an issue

cool. do you recommend these pumps? they come with filter sock thing. so its pretty much like straight swap for standard minus the bracket.

ive got a question loosely related. mafia or nismoid, did you hook the walbro to the standard wiring/running standard voltage and have no issues? theres been some talk of these pumps not flowing to their spec capacity because of voltage drop, and needing to be hooked up to direct voltage or whatever. just asking so i know what to expect if i go with a walbro myself.

like many on here, i had the same missfire / spark breakdown. i used the silicone method. covered them in selleys 401. i also clean the spark contact inside till it was shiny and gold. both these things helped alot, but there was still an occasional weak spark in cold weather at 12psi. another member suggested the contact springs. so i pulled the coils out again, and this time i stretched the spring that contacts with the spark plug, about 10mm or so. (i'm not sure if the S2 R33 and R34 use a spring, but the S1 definately do). so now the spring pushes hard against the spark plug, and reduces the chance of poor contact/stray spark. that was a few months ago, and no problem through the rest of winter and so far. but i'll know for sure once the winter temps drop low again. just another thing to try

it doesnt look like you've bent the chassis tip either. this will allow you to slope the cooler, bottom side towards the car. it might make things line up.

oh man, lol. i felt bad for the old dude. lucky his clothes didnt get caught in the roller somehow. bahahahahahahaFKNhahahahahaha at the toes.....man, my stomach hurts.

i fitted a cooling pro kit on mine. not the stealth kit. a hybrid copy, tube and fin, with trust style elongated end tanks. i had to mix and match brackets, and basically make the thing fit. no way the standard fittings were going to work. i also ended up using a longer silicone joiner in the engine bay where two of the cooler pips were too far apart. just get creative. it seemed like the guys at JJ chuck a bunch of brackets in there without much thinking going on.

bahaha but never in melbourne man. no wai !!!

NOW its too low

have a look here. some discussion and a few pics http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Co...&hl=stealth

it's gone !!! cheers aaron

excellent will be watching for your results. if they survive the 100c test, maybe bump it up to 150c or so. just for peace of mind i can vouch for one thing, it certainly insulates well from heat.

yeah thats obvious. but extended periods exposed to heat wasnt a test option . so open flame is a worst case scenario, and may also simulate to a degree what long periods of heat might do. ie. cause the material to become brittle, hard, melt, crack etc.

but whats sandwiched in the middle? coz the one i used looks like wetsuit too.

i just did a small test. i got a stubbie holder, and placed an open flame directly under it, with my finger firmly against the other side. it insulated the heat perfectly. i couldnt feel the flame at all. unfortunately it caught fire. so then i tried it again with the flame about 1 inch away, and it caught fire again in about 20 seconds. this might pose a problem. it seems this stubbie holder is basically foam inside, and this starts to melt like rubber and then catches fire. are there different types of stubbie holders?

i wonder how heat/fire proof a stubbie holder is. last thing you want is for it to catch fire. if it is stable under hot temps, it sounds like a pretty good idea. and considering you could likely get a snug fit passing it over the cooler piping, it wouldnt look too bad either.

FATAZZ will be picking it up on saturday. if his parole officer says he's done a runner, i'll let you guys know

hi rachael. watch out for addison. she's gonna try get in your pants show us yer car !!!