Munkyb0y

yes i see well i measured my stock cooler piping. the one that joins to the standard crossover pipe. it seems to be 2.25 inch. so i guess the same size (2.25") fmic piping on a stock turbo setup is probably the way to go.

so tube and fin would be a better choice? coz thats what i was going with nissan smic's and gtr coolers are tube and fin. as well as the hks etc.

yeah the piping kit looks correct for r33. i havent tried fitting anything yet, but it's basically the same shape as the others ive seen. i just spoke to just jap, and they told me the piping kit is 2.25 on the type 2 (greddy copy) in keeping with the stock piping size. they also said the new type 2 coolers are all bar and plate. they found a tube and fin in stock for me to pick up. ive always assumed tube and fin flow better, less restriction, but cool less than bar and plate. is this right? coz now i'm getting conflicting info.

its the just jap type 2 kit. it's supposed to be tube and fin, but i have a feeling they gave me the wrong cooler. looks like bar and plate to me. and also measures 600x280. i'm currently waiting for a reply about that. here are pics of the cooler they gave me the piping comes in a seperate box, and it looks to be the correct shape for R33. but the diameter threw me off. after measuring my stock pipes, i'm not sure what size its supposed to be now. has anyone actually measured theirs?

I was under the impression that the stock cooler piping was 2.5 inch ID (63mm). I got a piping kit for an fmic, and measured the piping to be 2.25 inch ID (~57mm) I thought this might be the wrong kit, so i measured my stock 33 smic inlets, and the leftover pipes from the R34smic upgrade. They measure 2.25 inch ID. So, what size cooler piping is normal for the fmic kit for R33? Has anyone bothered to measure? Or just assume, as I did, that its 2.5 inch?

i just did a flush and used genuine nissan coolant too, on the recommendation of my mechanic. was $40 something

just get IAMGAY ILYKCOK YNVME4 NVDIS1 IAMSTUPID and so on

see what i mean. cApS bOi Ov3r hErE lIkEs DEM. thats what you're buying into

nice music as far as i know, they dont have defects over there. so you can pretty much do anything you like.

personally i dont like them. there are some that are ok, sometimes, on the right car. but all the NV and D (the) and other cheesy shit really do make you look like a wanker. NISZILA isnt too bad, as its not an abbreviated try hard sentence, and relates to the car. more suited to a gtr though. but then, thats my opinion.

i'm more concerned with the effectiveness of the cooler. to be honest, i wasnt even expecting power gains. i dont want to be sucking hot air into the plenum. larger cooler, better cooling. the r34 smic was suffering severe heat soak on the dyno. they had to pour water over it between runs to let it cool. also, lets assume at 12psi, the r34 smic is causing a slight restriction. that means the turbo is now working harder than it should have to. so if lag isnt an issue (conflicting opinions here), then the fmic is going to be healthier for the motor overall. edit: i've got a feeling the lag issue might be down to the choice of cooler. i'm looking at a tube and fin with the trust style end tanks. here

actually thats another bonus. fmic means i can set up a cold air feed to the pod through the unused hole for the factory cold pipe. and at that stage, i'll partition the pod.

Ive got the r34 ducting, and my front bar has an opening directly to the ducting, so it's as good as it gets in that respect. i wouldnt bother going to that trouble. if it came down to that, i'd just go with the fmic. what symptons would you see if the cooler wasnt up to the job? these are the main reasons i'm considering the front mount: - as far as i know, cooler intake temps make for a healthier/happier motor. - consistency is another concern. sometimes it runs great, and other times it's a bit less great - also, if the cooler is creating restriction, the turbo will be working harder to make the desired boost. these are the reasons i wanted to avoid it: - added lag? (not so sure about this one) - wank factor (dress-ups rather than performance requirement) - defect i'll be going with a tube and fin for least restriction, with hopefully improved cooling.

well its sitting directly on my coils, and hasnt melted, or shown any signs of melting. its been about 3 weeks now, and those coils get hotter than the coil cover would.

thanks for the replies. so far, you've confirmed what i was thinking the unichip was in the car when i got it. i thought about replacing it, but i found a tuner who knows these units well. he used to tune them for race teams when they were popular. i'm happy with the results. they are actually quite good if you get someone who knows what theyre doing.

selleys 401 silicone is industrial grade high temp stuff. ive never tried it for this purpose, but it seems to stick really well. ive used it to seal my coilpacks against arcing, and it hasnt melted in any way. the pack says its recommended for sealing glass to oven doors, among other things. so that gives you some indication of its heat resistance. about $10 a tube at bunnings.

I'm currently using a R34 smic. My tuner told me to upgrade to a front mount after the last tune. His exact words, "if this was my car, i wouldnt be using that intercooler"...."do it, its worth it" I fitted the r34 smic a while ago, as an easy upgrade, and it made a nice difference. Thats when the car was making 185kw. Last tune - 211rwkw on 11-12psi. Only mods are, full exhaust, pod, and unichip with boost module. What are your experiences with fmic on stock r33 turbo? Glad you did it? Regret it? Wasnt necessary? EDIT: I fitted the front mount and took it for a drive tonight. It's raining though, so nothing crazy. All seems good. I didnt notice any extra lag. It does make more noises now lol. And it seems to pull well, so no complaints there. Just wondering if a tune is recommended after the install. My tuner told me i'd definately need one. I know it was a huge benefit after exhaust mods. So i'm pretty much planning on getting it tuned. What are your experiences?

oh thailand. what a great place for a cheap getaway. i was in phuket, and the islands. as mentioned, best thai food you'll ever have. and great seafood. so fresh and cheap. and how about their fruit. oh man, i wanna go back some of their 'hot' dishes made my eyes water. upside - nothing here is too hot anymore

356.5kw ATB dude, at the blades

from what i know, the r32 windscreen antenna has crap reception from factory. here's the thread about my antenna issues. might shed some light for the R33 guys http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/t182488.html

i just had the car out, 6500rpm, 12psi, 2nd gear, no misfire at all. but i'm sure its not gone for good. i am 100% that cleaning and sealing the coils (2 weeks ago) has greatly reduced the problem. (thanks to the tutorials on this forum) before i did that, i was getting a huge, power draining missfire as low as 4000rpm on 12psi. i will have a go at stretching the springs as you mentioned. i'm still running 0.8mm gap, and prefer to keep it that way if possible. also, i just swapped my ngk platinums to ngk coppers.

thanks for your replies richie. very in depth that silicone is selleys 401 industrial high temp, recommended for electrical insulation among other things. can you tell me how to check for the strong blue spark? do i just take the coil with spark plug attached, while the car is idling, and earth the spark plug on cam cover to create the spark? or do i do it with no spark plug, and just earth the coil contact area directly? is this safe to do? although i dont know if this would help, as i dont have a miss at idle, only at full boost - 12psi. what spark plug gap are you using?

i take it that measuring the primary resistance isn't definitive. but i'll check it anyway. a big variation in a single coil would be suspect. i've pulled the coils out and cleaned the spring and the seat/contact area. (shown below) i think that's what you explained above. this reduced the missfire, but didnt fix it entirely. can you explain this process to me in more detail? how do i go about it exactly?

after a bit more searching, nothing really came up, but from what i can gather, you need to test the resistance across the + - terminals on the top of the coil pack. anyone know what the values should be? or in fact if this is the way to go about it?

lol, limpus i swear i'm not copying you. but i had the same experience. when i put the xforce ceramic on, my car actually felt laggier, less responsive, and developed a crazy drone around 2k rpm. i took it off, went back to the old one. then replaced that with a stainless internal highflow, and bam, better response, better everything. thats my personal experience, not my opinion.