Munkyb0y

hey chris it's an S1 which black/red wire? there's a red/green wire hooked up to the headunit power aerial (blue) wire. it was working fine before. also, while we're at it, what's this for? (see pic). it's bolted inside the rear quarter, just before the aerial.

SOLD !!! for $230.....ahhh ebay

anyone concerned about our friendly police force doing the defect dance once the cars start heading home? it's happened before.

ive got an r34 cooler on mine. only seeing about 190rwkw @ ~10psi. its doing its job fine. but now i want to get it tuned to 12psi, with a new exhaust setup. i'm thinking it will be safer with an fmic. so yeah r34 is kinda temporary. but it was a piss easy swap over, and pretty cheap.

thats KINDA helpful. whats it look like? so its a plug, not a switch? ive seen the half/full switches, but i dont have one on my dash.

mine has never had the half/full height control. just full height. where is that plug? and if i hook 12v to the aerial (blue) wire, will it raise it up?

My aerial wont go up or down. It just stopped working one day. Is there a fuse for it somewhere? Is there a common fault to look for with these? Are the motors known to just die? Mine isnt making any noise, so it's not likely to be stuck, or trying to work at all. I already pulled my deck out and checked the power aerial wire was still connected.

oh crap... what exactly is he going for? roll cage / dirty big filter out the bonnet - extensive sub/sound system - salon interior / pink...pink for fuucks sake !!! looks like someone isnt good at making the hard decisions :|

lol just call you lazy bastard you know these 'car types' dont use the interwebz much

i'm assuming you dont just mean for the sake of not using reducers. more info? how did it flow? looks like the air does a u-turn in the core. is the core divided so it travels to the opposite end tank before returning?

while we're on the subject, i've considered one of these coolers from just jap, but i dont know of anyone that's used one. how do they flow? how do they line up with the standard piping, and does the top outlet clear the reo/supports? anyone used one?

its not an o2 sensor its just a cat temp sensor, that goes directly to the dash light afaik (on rb25 R33 anyway) has no bearing on ecu or anything else. doesnt need to be connected

the rubber things: i got some off a mid/late 90's falcon (EL?). fit perfect.

did you get a definate price on the bb units?

my point was that a turbotech is far from shit. its quite good, and if you had to rate it in terms of effectiveness, ease of use, and price, it would come on top. if you're not concerned about price, there are other more expensive options for arguably better results. but this comes very very close ...for only $30!!!

but the bleeding in the one with the hole is only bleeding pressure caught between the turbotech and your actuator. ie less lag on the wastegate essentially they are the same thing. not a bleeder but a restrictor...thats the beauty of it, adjustable restrictor.

i was using a turbotech for a while. very impressed. it does its job well. i only switched to an ebc coz it was already there on my piggyback, and the tuner set it up while i was on the dyno. the result was identical. dead flat boost till the end i think Guilt-Toy already pointed out, it doesnt bleed pressure, it blocks it. alot of ppl look at it and instantly assume its crap. ie uras a few pages back. but then those ppl make alot of absolute statements like "i can gaurantee a power increase 100% of the time with a properly setup EBC like a DSBC etc (i hate AVCR's they really show their age nowadays)..... over a turbotech bleed valve (actually any bleeder)" which would indicate that they would be wrong about 100% of the time. agreed? maybe in their experience, with the particular setups they've played with.......which does not equal 100% of anything. rant...i know, but it gets on my nerves

you got it backwards ^ stainless internals on the metal cat provide better flow, less restriction....also cost more ceramic are cheaper to buy, dont flow quite as well, therefore more restriction. edit: i'm pretty sure Magic Cat make a 4 inch metal cat

veilside kits belong on supras and in landfill your kit looks much better

ME TOO !!

lol much much larger

i'd say you're right. sounds like more air is coming in than what the aac is regulating. i.e vaccum leak check all the vaccum hoses around the plenum for starters. replace it all with silicone hose if you have to.

whats with the MOTUL 8100 ESTER E-TECH ? i'm assuming its better than the 8100 X-CESS 5W-40 coz it costs more. also has ester in the name. i was about to grab the 8100 x-cess 5w-40, then i noticed the e-tech. i think i'll still go with the x-cess.

1500 is too high. specs say 700rpm warm adjust your idle screw on the side of the aac. since it's not hunting, and cold start is about 500 higher than warm idle, it sounds like it's working ok. i'd say it just needs to be adjusted lower.

re: automatic take off. how high is your idle? i would expect it to stall if it was idling at 700rpm (factory spec)