Munkyb0y

i'm sure you are aware of this, unless its just me the titles at the top of the threads arent visible when using the defualt skin. they are still there, but they're in white, and blend in with the white background like so:

vely vely nice... but i'd rather take this black one

so in the engine bay (that pic is not my motor) there's a big black rubber grommit covering that sensor, with wiring running into it, yeah? do you just pull that off? unclip it somehow?

the big yellow one? my standard oil pressure gauge was showing low readings yesterday morning (1 at idle - 2 when driving) then after being parked for 30 mins, the gauge showed normal readings (2 at idle - 4 when driving) than again a few hours later the readings were low again. i suspect (hope) it's the standard sensor playing up. EDIT: i cleaned the plug terminals with contact cleaner. they were clean anyway. the gauge is now showing kinda normal readings, just a tad low on cold start. it use to creep up to 5-6 on the stock gauge, now it goes just over 4. at about 3000rpm, warm, its just under 4. this is a bit lower than it used to be. idle is a touch under 2, as before. my question is, is there something that would actually cause low oil pressure (1 at idle - 2 when driving), and then recover from this? or is this almost certainly a gauge/sender fault? i plan on getting an aftermarket gauge, but sandwich plate etc, it's gonna take a while. i'm guessing you have to drop the oil in order to do this. no way around it?

what about DATE MOVIE that sucked painfully

hey guess what? the mechanic i used for my major service just after i bought my car, who overtensioned my timing belt, and i went back, got him to redo it, then told him he's a monkey, and will never go back again. well that same c0cksucker ordered and installed ngk platinums 1.1mm, after i specifically told him to use the 0.8mm. anyway, i had my coil packs out last week to check for cracks, burns, etc.... and i pulled out my plugs while i was at it, and found the wrong gap. regapped them to 0.8mm. so far so good. no more missfire. hopefully this solved it for good. i didnt bother touching the coil packs.

nissan murano http://www.nissan.com.au/murano/

trivia? just update your ad to include either what you know, or what you dont know. dont claim it fits cars that it doesnt.

Each Skyline (32,33,34) and S13 use different boss kits. so how can this wheel fit them all ?

i spotted an R34 and an R33 with these during the week they look crap imo cheap stick-on rice so much better without them

well now we HAVE to try it, dont we?

i'm not sure which extremely small dump pipes you're talking about. but they wont be smaller than the stock one. these are the two types i was comparing there are benefits to be had with the longer split dump/front pipe over a shorter split dump + front, but they also cost more. so what KW difference would you see? well from my research, ive found that on a mild sub-200rwkw rb25, you will prob see between 5-10 rkwk gain. any other opinions? please throw them in the mix cheers

35% is darkest legal

i'm not sure how these fit. can u measure the length? also, how far up does the thread go inside the knob? i'm wondering how far down it will sit.

thanks for the replies i'm still tossing up whether to keep my current 3inch front, and just add the split dump to it. but after some more research, it would seem that to gain most benefit from a split dump pipe, the split should be a minimum of about 40cm before joining back to the main pipe. so i guess a split dump/front pipe is the way to go.

my gf's mr lancer had an issue lately. the revs would drop too low and the car stalled (hot and cold). it just happened out of the blue one day. turned out to be the throttle body was caked up with heaps of gunk. this messes with the cold start too, as they use a mechanical system for cold start. my only guess is to take the throttle body off and clean it out real well, including the idle adjust screw. see how you go.

Just wondering if there will be a noticeable difference on a stock turbo (R33 11psi) between a split dump, and a split dump/front pipe (where the split joins to the main pipe further along)? What is your experience? Also, do you guys always heat wrap your stainless steel dump/front pipes? Is it required/advisable? Another thing, i noticed when i put my highflow cat on, it caused richness. Will i find the same with going from standard dump to split dump? ie, requires a retune? Cheers EDIT: i currently have a stock dump going into a 3 inch front pipe - 3 inch cat back. very straight thru exhaust. hardly a bend in it, with a cannon on the end.

OMG CHEEZELS seriously ems, you made my day mate. now kill all those farken rats, coz skylines ARE NOT rat food !!!

i know a few guys that used to work in the xbox repair place. believe me, backyard job is probably just as good if not better. microsoft FTL

if you can get me a blank gtr key for $10, i'll take 2 thanks

lets say you were to sell it. how muchie?

better than living in communist victoria alex, i've never tried it, but i'd love to see it done. maybe practice on a piece of sheet metal and see how it goes. if i had a suitable dent *knock on wood* i think i'd try it. apparently it doesnt harm your paint

do it yourself

is it scrubbing the front or back? you could try rolling your guards (if they're not already done). most people do this anyway.