Munkyb0y

this is pretty basic stuff. smaller sidewalls need higher pressure. ie, 19's would run 40-42. 17's would run 32-36 check out the tyre placard on a car that comes with 18's from factory. it will have a recommended pressure of around 38. my mates FPV had 19's, recommended pressure was 40-42psi. dont let me tell you what pressure to run. do your own research. i have, and i run 38-40psi all round.

32psi in 18's? thats way too low. you need higher pressure in 18's. 38-40 is spot on. try it.

my 33 handles great. and theres no expensive coilovers. most would say it's set up wrong. the car is too low, and the springs are very hard. besides the bumpy ride, it handles great. i'm running 235 fronts and 265 rears. my point is, imagine if i had an expensive/renowned suspension set up. i'd have to say skylines handle well. i'd be running 38 - 40psi on 18's reason being, low profile = smaller sidewall. higher pressures keep the sidewalls firm.

can you post a pic of the $50 cannon? cheers

heres mine... if you cbf and post the ones you do in here

hmmmm so which coppers did you use?

that looks great man what others have you done? complete cars? post more !!!

unless your stock flywheel has been lightened (ie. had a fair amount of its mass taken out) you'll be fine at moderate power levels. side stepping = dumping the clutch.

so you guys think iridiums will be a better plug, if it turns out my coils are fine? (i'd rather not use coppers. i've heard too many stories of them breaking down after less than 5000 kms). also, can u explain the coil pack resistance test in a bit more detail. cheers

are you offering? lol here's the thing though. at 10psi theres no prob. at 11 psi theres no prob. so far it's only happened at 12+ i set my boost to 10psi, and i never intended to run 12psi. so by my reasoning, if i keep boost under 11, it shouldnt be a problem, right?

rich and retard sounds quite gay. like a wealthy kid who's been touched in the head :laughing-smiley-014: but yeah, i was refering to the same thing. mine doesnt feel like a violent jerking, so thanks for clearing that one up mad082. its hard to know if you havent felt it. it sounded like coil/spark to me too. i was just hoping it wasnt. still better than something more serious. so how do you indentify the coil pack thats playing up? i read about idling (at cold start?) in the dark and watching for arcs. i doubt its gonna do it at idle though. it idles smooth as always. i might have to try cleaning the coil packs ...ala SECURITY

na i dont think it's the same problem as yours ^ mine does it for a second, at high rpm, but it goes away right then and there, before i even get a chance to shift. it doesnt do it on idle, so removing each lead would not be any help i spoke to my mechanic. he reckons its overboosting at prob 12+psi, and the ecu is backing it off. ie boost cut. he puts it down to the cold air. i'll do some more research, and see if this problem persists. if it's the coil packs, it should start becoming more frequent yeah? its never done this before, but now its happened twice, both times in freezing cold weather / higher boost than usual.

damn it !!! it just happened again. much less this time, but i could feel the hesitation at about 5k, and the same exhaust note, but it only lasted for a sec in 1st gear, and even less in 2nd gear. is this related to the ambient air temps? ie. it was worse on a really cold night. today is quite cold and the issue popped up again, but to a lesser degree. the other day it was moderately cold, and i had no prob at all. i wonder if reducing my boost level would cure this prob. hmmm. need to get it on a dyno to do that though, as its a unichip integrated boost module.

BARGAIN !!! see what i mean?

that may have been the case some time ago, but the market is flooded with them now. seller's cant sell, and their prices have dropped dramatically.

lol i'm with eric cheung whats with the ruuuuuuudness, bitches? cut your dickheads off, dickheads

there are plenty of 33's for sale. no need to import. i'd suggest buying one that has wheels, suspension, exhaust, and other basic mods already done. it'll save you a load of cash, as these kind of mods dont really hold their value at sale time. i'd be going for the latest model you can get in your budget. series 2's spooling quicker seems to be all theory in my experience. mainly because they both spool quickly anyway, at stock/mild specs.

OR........ (i just had a thought) could that have been the ecu - rich and retard ? i've never experienced it, so i'm not sure.

lol, thats as good a reason as any. i just took the car for a run. everything seems fine. 2nd gear, up hill (so plenty of load), all the way to 6500rpm, 10-11psi, smooth sailing. so it looks like extremely cold/dense air was the issue. ie. boost was just too high for my coil/spark set up.

you can hardly call that an eclipse anymore. impressive none the less. that launch was unbelievable nice focus by the camera guy

thanks mate. it seems like a one off (12psi - cold air), but will find out soon enough when all this rain stops. why cas though ?

when it comes to rims...if you have seen them on a commodore...DO NOT GET THEM EVER !!!

basically what i need to know is: for those who have had the cracked coil pack / weak spark issue. did your engine/exhaust sound like a burbling, wrx-type sound? just trying to identify if its the same common issue.

no, what i mean is can u fit an S2 wheel (airbag removed) on a non airbag S1 column. does the factory spline/hicas etc all fit the same? or are they different sizes just wondering if its possible

plugs are 0.8mm platinum. AS ABOVE ^^^ open ur eyes blindman they are only about 6000kms old its never done this before. i can always feel the vct kicking in, but never had power loss or the weird exhaust sound. its the exhaust sound that got me worried. i think it sounds like 1 cylinder wasnt firing maybe, and thats why i thought coil pack. also cold night, boost up to 12psi, where its never been before. sounds like the conditions where the coil pack might arc, or perhaps even the spark on the plug was getting blown out. otherwise the car is driving normally.