r33madd

yea no thanks for your input really guys she needs to get to work in about 3 house and she cant take my car !!!

Hey alll My partners 1995 MX Touring Lancer automatic its randomly cutting out when she comes to stops at the lights etc or just after she starts it up. When it cuts out the revs drop under 450rpm then dies We have changed the fuel filter that fixed the prob for half the day can someone help shed some light Thanks

Hi all Can i please have some advice on what bushes and pinapples to replace / upgrade to help improve handeling, axle tramp, and traction. I have no idea about them so a run down on what they do would also be great Thanks

haha thanks for that. and yep thanks for you aussies helping out.

cheers mate has any one else tried one. or should i just stick with a exedy one etc

Has anyone tried one of the below F1 Racing clutches F1 RACING STAGE 3 CLUTCH - SKYLINE JDM RB20DET RB25DET http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/F1-RACING-S...sspagenameZWDVW F1 RACING STAGE 3 clutch kit is a direct factory replacement parts thus no modifications are needed. It's designed for those who seeks ultimate in clutch performance and reliability. The clutch kit includes all 4 high grade clutch components and it's ready for a hot action on the street, strip and track. The 6-puck copper ceramic (also known as MIBA) disc features 12 high-coefficient friction pads that are resistant to slippage and burst. The heavy-duty sprung center unit boasts heat treated 6 springs and retainer rivets for the maximum power and durability. The heavy-duty pressure plate comes with 20% increase in clamp load and is specifically designed to handle more torque and horsepower. All F1 RACING clutches require 500 mile break-in periods. Our picture below shows the ACTUAL item Retail Value: $ 436 Horsepower Rating: 420 HP at the crank / Torque Capacity: 389 ft/lbs This complete racing clutch kit includes: F1 RACING Stage 3 heavy-duty Pressure Plate F1 RACING Stage 3 copper ceramic 6-puck Disc Pilot Bushing Alignment Tool

Mine Almost done

Another Picture

i say check for boost leaks and hose claps are all done up etc. also try your spark plugs at .8mm gap

Ok went for a drive over the long weekend and my car feels GREAT i found a big prob that i had missed when i put the air box in i had not done up a intercooler Hose clamp so i was getting a pretty bad leak. haha didnt help with the car feeling like shit. anyway thanks for ya help, tips and comments everyone

Well I added the Ducting last night and removed the silencer and here are a few photos of my air box. Still have not been for a drive yet as I was nicely blocked in my drive way last night by the Nabors removal van so will go driving tonight

Thanks guys and girls things im doing when i finish work 1. Take the silencer out 2. Add air duct from the front bumper to the old factory intercooler hole 3. Take some pictures 4. Go for a fang with my fingers crossed hoping the car feels better. I will let everyone know

na induction noise is still pretty loud one thing I should add is I also put my Exhaust Silencer back in the same day that could help with playing mind games I guess.

I do not have the Ducting in the factory hole Yet but im going to. Car ran well with out the box but people kept say you should box that pod in car will go better haha so i did. maybe heat is getting into the box and not getting out so it is making the box act like a pod heater not a cold air box. ill check for major gaps and add the ducting and reset the ECU Then will get back to you all with some pictures. but mean wile im still keen for other peoples ideas

I was ment to say where the factory intercooler pipe use to be. The hole under the air filter. The factory snorkel and airbox is long gone I have a HKS pod filter and a CAI that encloses the pod filter in the corner.

thanks dude Maybe its just me i dont know but something dosnt feel right. maybe a ecu reset may be a good idea. as for an air feed i dont really have one there it just the hole where the factory pipe use to be which im yet to Duct.

Hey guys Not sure if its just me But i added a Cold air box to my car on the weekend and my can now feels like it has less power than it did without it. has anyone else come accross this before how can i find out if the air box is not doing the car any good without getting on a dyno. Cheers

yea all i have had for the last year was a bung in the return pipe now i want to get rid of the pipe to tidy up the engine bay. I got the paint from repco its a really good colour and is almost the same as the HKS Purple i have also painted my strup brace hands the same colour.

What support mods do i need to "SAFELY" run a 40-60hp Nos kit on my R33 Rb25det Im looking at the Greedy Nos Kit from Nengun.

can anyone help

I have an atmo venting BOV so i dont the need the pump back pipe So i removed it. I have done the folling please tell me if this is right or wrong. 1. removed black pump back pipe 2. bloked of holes the pump back pipe left in the rubber intake pipe between AFM and turbo 3. Put a Breather filter on the breather pipe as seen in the photo below. Is there any thing else i need to so cheers

haha that is a mean skid but what a toss in that traffic

haha they sure do. Im getting my mags after i paint it so i can choose a set the suite the paint job. at the moment im leaning towards The same 19" Koya mags as DRAGME on the forum.

I agree check all other possible probs before splashing out on new coils. I had checked evey option then my last resort was the coils.

No it was my local fiber glasser they did a wicked job at fitting the kit to get nice join lines. should have the car painted soon im still playing with colours at the moment