13thracer

i have 3 words for you, BRAIDED BRAKE LINES start with them first, i did them on my 33 the other week cleaned up all the pads and discs which are factory items by the way, and noticed a ,massive improvement best 200 dollars i ever spent. I dont see the point in upgrading the calipers the factory ones are more than sufficeient unless your really chasing lap times. In addition there is master cylinder stoppers and Upgraded pads and discs all these items mentioned will come in under the cost of the g4 kit and i think you will be pleasanlty suprised with your stopping power and alot easier on the hip pocket too

looks good man so problems clearing brake calipers hence the need for spacers?

hey people just seeing if anyone has a pic of a r33 with r34 gtt wheels thinking about buying a set as spares and just wondering what they look like on 33's cheers all

There is a few things that will determine weather or not it will srucb - The offset of the rim - Weather or not you have had your guards rolled before - Tyre size - And the usual spot for scrubbing is inner guard linings so if dont car about them you can take them out personally i wouldnt cause it makes the car look abit dodgy like if you know what i mean. The best bet would be to really quiz the shop or person you are getting the rims and tyres off as they should have the answer, i really cant give you a definate yes or no without seeing the car and rims. I also recall a massive thread on SAU somewhere detailing rims and offets recommendation so try a quick search and have a little read

Its Ok its only when i hit corners and roads at speeds alittle above the average joe that it tends to bottom out and scrub a tiny bit,and they are pretty soft it is a very comfy ride thats for sure. Tee-cnc If your just chasing the lowered look and not chasing big handling upgrades then it may pay to invest in some aftermarket shocks as well, as the standards/originals will flog out fairly quick and it will feel like driving a big marshmellow like mine was.

I Have King super lows in my 33 as far as hieght goes see pic atttached, i have 19's with 245s all round the fronts scrub on full lock on the inner guard linings and hard turn in cornering they acually hit on the front guard, but obviusly with the correct tyre rim and offset combo you wouldnt have this issue. As for the rears i have scrubed alittle when i hit dips in the road at over 120km/h or so but nothiung major. As a side note your standard shocks will flog out in no time with the low kings springs as there not designed to operate with that low of a spring and in a short time you will have shagged out shocks im afraid.

found some cheers guys

hey people just chasing up a standard left hand rear shock (or both) dont need the spring or anything just the shock, mine is shagged out and knockin just need a temporary replacement as im not ready to upgrade suspension just yet. anyone out there upgraded to coilovers with the old stuff lying around im sure the could be a bottle/carton of something in it for you Cheers Scott

working on the first in first served basis,....... turbo is still for sale skoundral

yes i do have a actuator that will suit, it is off a r34 stagea so is rated to aprox 5 or 6psi from memory but dont quote me on that.

SOLD

just picked it up on friday be gentle guys......and girls

SOLD SOLD SOLD:)

price on the bottom end champ, let us know what you find wrong with it

there is always hidden costs, if you can try have a little spare cash just in case something comes up

oh yeah ive got a stock 20box in mine too which has lasted the 18 months ive had the car and hopefully longer all depends how you drive i spose

Do the 25 you will never look at your 20 the same again, the loom would be an easy job for any capable mechanic couple of hundred to fit and make work, personally and this is just me but i would live with the 25 ecu and run stock boost until you can afford a power fc or equivilant the remap is good but any further mods down the track will require remapping not just retuning which is done by alot more workshops, With conversions i recommend getting everything running sweet on the stock ecu first drive it for a little bit then start stuffing around with aftermarket ecus. i did this in mine with just cooler/intake and exhaust stock ecu stock r33 boost solnoid (6 to 8psi) made 220hp at the rears no R&R either and in a silvia was plenty to keep me happy until i could afford the ecu upgrade. long story short put the 25 in deal with the problems that will happen and in the long run you will have so much fun pm me if ya want any more details more than happy to help

green is ecu power, orange is injector power and the redlight indicates a fault so if it flashes i suggest you get it checked out just to be safe. if you have a hand controller or the laptop software you can watch it when it flashes it will bring up the fault on the screen,

weight reduction is good :):) dont quote me but from memory the oldschool drag racers used to say loosing 400 pounds is equal to adding 100 HP and the best thing about weight reduction less impact on your driveline and most of it is free.

Hi all my mate is after a Series 2 reinforcement Bar ASAP please give him a call if you know of one or have one in brisbane his name is shannon 0417 726 490 thanks all

Get yourself a front mount kit from just jap they seem to work fine, a good dump pipe if you dont allready have one, chuck the rubbish k&n filter in the bin keep the airbox just put in a BMC or APEXI panel filter a good boost controller preferably Electronic and closed loop (AVCR or HKS EVC) sell the interceptor and get full management of some form (cough power fc cough) the ecu is the key to so many doors, if i had my time again i would buy that first before anything else if your a newbie spend some time and research before you buy you will also learn heaps along the way. hope im a help of some form

highflow turbo and a power fc if you can find one (spend the time and try to find one) and z32 AFM, you will love it

IGNITOR on its way out mine did the same thing with my splitfires swapped the ignitor with another one and problem solved FOR ME, anyway HKS have an ignition amp if you want to go that way i believe they have plug in adaptors for the kit now too. have a browse through nengun to get an idea on it

yeah the 25 stuff will do it but not as well as the 26, and at the end of the day do you want a 25 in your GTR. finding 26 cranks is allittle hard but not impossible i know of two for sale at the moment. Im not nissan and dont know what they did in the factory back in the day but i say there would be a hole lot more preperation going into the 26 crank than the 25 one but thats just my theory. some options... 1. 25 crank,26 rods, and 25 forgies. 9:1 but less capacity 2. 26 crank rods and forgies 8.5:1 but 2.6 capacity so makes up alittle for the less compression bore it 40thou and get to 2.7 if your keen. best option would be to pull the engine apart and see what stuffed and go from there

If you use the 26 crank you will need to use 26 pistons. If you use the 25 crank you must use the 25 pistons. Rods are the same length 25 to 26 the 26 ones are just stronger so use them regardless unless there stuffed of coarse. the 26 pistons are off the top of my head 2mm smaller in height to offset the extra stroke that the 26 crank has. So if you used 25 pistons on a 26 crank you will end up having the pistons poke out the deck and will try and punch the head off the block with every srtoke so dont do it. and vise versa 25 crank with 26 pistions = around 7:1 i think either way really low. Answer to your questions 1... You could use the 25 gear but it would really suck have shitty 25 gear inside a 26, your going to have to rebuild it either way and forgies are a good option. 25 crank and forgies i assume would give you factory rb25 compression 9:1 but dont go defacing you gtr buy putting 25 stuff in it, if the crank is stuffed sell the 25 gear you have, and go buy another 26 crank. 2... Th only way to get more comprssion is to use custom pistons, deck the block, skim/shave the head or use a thinner gasket so if you wont do any of them so you can keep you squish you have to leave it factoryish 8.5:1.